staticki

Hello all,

Looking for some insight here as I am in the process of swapping the rear brake setup on my base c6 to LG drag spindles so I can throw on a set of 15" weld rt-s' with a set of Hoosier 28 x 10.50-15 slicks.

What suggestion's would you have for my first outing on slicks? What should I run my tire pressure at? Start at 16psi and work my way down from there?

What should I launch at? Car is supercharged and is just under 700hp.

Anything to be concerned about the first time being out on slicks? I ran drag radials last year with a best time of 10.6 and a best trap of 138, but only could get my 60' times down to a 1.68.

DRIVER456

I ran Hoosier 28" tall x 17" slicks @ 18lbs The only problem I had was at the end of the 1/4 when I would let off the gas the back end would sway back and forth.I was running 10.50 @ 131 other then that they worked great.I had radials on the front.

4DRUSH

M/T 275 DR Pros are all you need

C5 Pete

I don't see it mentioned, but if you run slicks, you need to run skinnys up front.

If you take 4DRush's excellent advice and use the 275 pro tire from M/T, you'll be fine.

Good luck.

staticki

Thank you all for the advice.

I am in the process of building a 408 block for a YSI build as well. I figured I would just do things right the first time than buying everything for a 17" setup and having to go back again for a 15" setup once I increased my power level.

383vett

I run 13.5-14lbs with my MT 11.5X15 slicks. 1.37 60'.

staticki

I see Weld RT-S only come in a 17x5 as the smallest. Would it be alright to run a a M&H 28.00 x 4.50-17, Bias-Ply on this wheel? Or should I go with the 26.00 x 4.50-17?

Rear wheels again 28 x 10.50-15.

4DRUSH

M&H 26.00 x 4.50 - 17 would be a good choice

Get the biggest back-set for the rim

staticki

Would I be able to run a M/H 185/50R18 Radial with the Hoosier Bias Ply's? Or is that asking for trouble?

I am coming up with no bias plys in 18's that fit a 4.5 wheel.

Fuzzy Dice

Mixing bias ply and radial is never a good idea...some will say it is fine but I am not a fan and neither are any of the tire manufacturers...

I run MT 28x10.5x15's and they work well at 13 lbs...my car is 3700 lbs. at launch...btw, if your car is heavy consider running that slick in the stiff sidewall model...MT and Hoosier both make them in that size...that's what I run...

Also, due to the weight of my car, I always break down the sidewalls before running out of rubber...I usually get about 120 passes per set and have about 40% rubber left when I replace them...

383vett

Fuzzy, I'm not sure if you are or not, but I started running tubes in my MT ETs a couple of years ago. It stiffens up the sidewall, keeps the tire from balling up and helped with 60s and rt.

4DRUSH

Tubes work well on our cars, but.... you have to run bead locks or screw the rims

C5 Pete

I have screws and had tubes. The screws broke and the tire slipped on the rim and almost broke the stem off the tube. Fortunately I bought new tires and found it during the swap.

Now I just run the MT ET streets with no tubes and I still screw them in.

Downside is they lose pressure pretty quick. Sitting on my trailer within a week they're down to 5-7 lbs.

Still learning my car though. I'll figure it out with help from the experts here.

Fuzzy Dice

I do not run tubes...I have had good luck by smearing dawn liquid inside the new slicks before I mount them...usually do one coat, let it dry and do a second...my MT's lose about 2 lbs. a month this way...

I had planned on going to tubes and beadlocks when I mini tubbed or back halfed the car...might be a while though....sigh...

4DRUSH

Wow, never heard about rim screws breaking

I ran 16 rim screws on outside & inside (32 total) on each wheel

Picked-up a nail on fairly new slick, called Jegs to order new slick & was told it wasn't a good idea to buy only one because of roll out.

Thought about it & ordered tubes & patched inside of slick

My 60' dropped from low 1.3's to high 1.2's overnite from those tubes

(Run radials & bead locks now)

C5 Pete

Tubes dropped your 60'?

I have screws inside and out. Not as many as you had though. I was quite sure praised when we broke the tire down and found the broken screws.

I'll probably start a new thread, but I need to figure out how to get a consistent 60' time. For some reason in all over the place. Makes it hard to dial in a number for a bracket race, or hit the 10.0H index.

I'm looking forward to talking shop with you guys in ATL.

383vett

So far I've had good luck with 8 on each side. Before tubes, I used to lose 2-3 lbs a day. With tubes, none.

Fuzzy Dice

"I'll probably start a new thread, but I need to figure out how to get a consistent 60' time."

I used to have this problem...it turned out the issue was staging...I watched everything from tire pressure to coolant temps to launch rpm's...I was staging slightly different every time...

A buddy of mine noticed it and I have been much more consistent now...except when I goof up (see my new thread))....sigh...