black_89_vette

What do I need to do to my rear end, if anything?

Not-yet-dyno'd engine guessing at least 400 rwhp/420 rwtq N/A.

Have 150 TNT wet Nitrous kit.
Have McLeod Street Twin clutch.
Have BFG Drag Radials 275/40/17.
ZF 6 , D44 , 3.33 gear.

Ok, so on launch, will I break something? Do I need to upgrade half shafts / spindles?

I'd love to sidestep the clutch at 5000 + RPM but will I break anything?

http://www.inthehook.com/Jerry/oct262007.wmv
http://www.inthehook.com/Jerry/inside_car.wmv

bent

maybe not the first time out but it will break eventually.....best bet is to get carbon-fiber half shafts (I saw some in ecklers i think) and an aftermarket D44 housing. I saw one advertized, I'm sorry I don't remember where, and it is new to the market so it may be hard to find. I didn't commit to memory because I just sold my C4 and don't really keep up anymore. good hunting

QuikZilver

You do not want carbon fiber half shafts if you are drag racing (copied from VanSteel's website): http://www.vansteel.com/index.cfm?fu...p=1906&ID=2384
Van Steel, an industry leader, in Corvette suspension, brakes and drive train components has improved a good product to an even better one. Originally designed for the extreme needs of the C4 driver, the NEW carbon fiber half shafts will easily handle the higher horse power being generated today. The up-graded shafts now come with stronger, one piece, exacting, C-N-C machined 7071 aluminum flanges capable handling BIG HP. Additionally, newer aero space epoxy adhesives bond a thicker, woven carbon fiber tube to the yokes making these half shafts perfect for the high performance street and road racing C4 driver. These shafts are not recommended for drag racing use.

My guess is that with slicks, once the tires grab, the half shafts will splinter, as the initial shock they would receive off the line would be more than if you were on the road or autocrossing.

ralph

At that power level with a 5000rpm launch, if your tires stick, you'll break everything. Spiders, spindles, axles, Ujoints, etc.

Just ask RichS.

If you plan to stay with a stick and drag race, i'd suggest you look into one of the solid rear, bolt in kits discussed in this forum.

Good luck

jpee

I've been drag racing since 1960's everything from a Flat Head 1951 Ford to a NHRA D/A and I NEVER Sidestepped a clutch... No one who I know who has driven a Comp Eliminator car with a Lenco, or Liberty trans ever sidestepped the clutch.....

If I was driving a street car I had a 97 Camaro Z28 I would slip the clutch for best 60' times.. or when driving a Liberty trans Comp car we would set the air gap, and adjust the weights on the clutch depending on track conditions...

If you watch Drag Racing on TV at the National Events they ESPN2 sometimes has a camera IN the car pointed at the driver...


I'm just going from memory (and its not good at my age) but off hand I've see Jeggs, WJ, KJ, and Dave Connelly drive on TV with a camera on them .. and NONE ever sidestepped the clutch.. all of them and any Comp racer that I know did the same.. they just popped the clutch.. or "Lifted" their left foot at the flash of yellow..

I'm interested to know if anyone here has driven a Liberty Trans. equipped car and "sidestepped the clutch or did you just "LIFT" your left foot as fast as you could?

0ski_dwn_it

With a stick, and doing what you describe above with sticky tire....my money is on the first launch.

With the way the C-beam is, you create a pinch point on the snout side of the differential. When you launch the pinion tries to climb the ring gear, and the Cbeam is one of the things stopping this from happening. As a result, it snaps the front right off and you end up with a mess.

When I used to pull my Cbeam out of my auto, it always had a new "waves" in the top of it. This was due to the action I describe above, but with the auto you can preload everything and the shock is not as violent.

Hate to sound like I am selling my stuff - but the solid rear is the only solution.

JPEE, nice azzes! Several styles to choose from there. Walmart should start carrying them.

Glensgages

I'd put that 4th one in my '82, and be content running 16s all-day-long!

Corvette Chris

It will break when being abused like that. Just a matter of time.

RichS

Definatly agree!!! With that clutch even dumping at 3000 I bet you will break. You best bet would be to ease out on the launch then spray it to make up for it. If I had the extra cash I would put a solid rear in.

NL Racecraft

I agree with Jesse....... before spending good money over good money(fixing the Dana's).... think of your options....

we(Carrolls Rod and Racecraft) are sponsors for the nj corvette challenge and offer some affordable options also ..... http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1922566

take care and good luck

mackeyred96

I spent enough on DANA 33/44 parts that I could have bought 2 solid rear conversions

black_89_vette

This is my daily driver that I will take to the track a few times this year. I didn't wanna drop too much money into the rear but I guess it all adds up with spindles and half shafts.

The solid rear, would this alter driveability? Would it still realistically handle as well as the IRS?

0ski_dwn_it

Every possible question and answer can be seen here in this thread on my solid rear conversion kit that includes EVERYTHING you need and offers you the best solution for reliability, adjustability, and drive-ability.

A few of the responses answer your question here directly.

Here are some photos if you would like a preview.



Here is the link to the answers to your questions.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1939107

NL Racecraft

you will get a different answer from everyone you ask......
I personally find the solid rear more SOLID? I also found no ill effects on handling....I do like to take turns at high speed..... but then again I am not an autocross racer? I think the conversion has better handling with the double adjustable coilovers do to the fact you can adjust them to your liking..unlike the factory bilsteins or red riders?

just my .02cent
leo

HIGH MPH

Just my .02, I think the Dana44 itself is pretty strong. It's the parts around it that need addressing. I kept braking u-joints which took out the half shafts. A local driveshaft company made me a set of mild steel half-shafts with Spicer ends and the Spicer solid u-joints. Don't use the Bruteforce u-joints either. Also had a driveshaft made the same way with all new straps and bolts everywhere. I'm running a TH400 with a transbrake. I leave with 2-3lbs boost off the transbrake. My 60' is 1.43-1.45. 422CI, 101MIL Turbonetics turbo made 1000RWHP. The Dana44 can take a pretty good amount of power. If you search "ttype01" on Youtube, you can see my 9.1 @156 pass. It went 9.0 on the last pass of the day. I was in the same boat as you last summer contemplating a solid rear but these Dana44's can actually take a good amount of power.

0ski_dwn_it

I can agree with this and I put mine also through some brutality while it was in my car. I was what I would consider fortunate though for never breaking the case.

I did take it apart early on and instantly saw how fragile the carrier etc was for these things. I could not bring myself to put it back together in stock form so I came up with a spool system for it. That I believe is what saved my setup from mass distruction. However I still had the "perimeter" pieces fail from time to time - and always at the worst possible times (several round into eliminations when your on fire ) - plus the few close calls I had then outter spindles would break. Finally after breaking BOTH rear spindles on a launch - I said enough is enough and went the solid rear route.

I had enough close calls - if one of those stub axles would have just fractured and then broke thru on a 2-3 shift, the car would in the wall quicker than you know what happened.

High MPH - you are seriously pushing the envolope with that IRS> Be careful and inspect it OFTEN. I caught mine a few times where the 1/2 shafts had cracked through where the U-joints set. Again a high MPH shift could have sent the car veering one way or the other.

Just glad I don't have to think about that crap anymore.

ralph

How many passes do you get out of a rear? Are you using a spool? If not, how do you keep the spider gears from breaking? I'm not using a transbrake and don't short quite as quick as you, but my spiders will routinely fail. I've tried stock, heat treated, cyro'd, heat treated and cryo'd, hardened shafts, etc. If i get a couple of seasons out of the posi, i feel like i'm do'n good.

HIGH MPH

My Dana44 is basically stock except for the 3.54 gears in it. I've never broken it. I've had many different motor combinations, 420CI with 400 shot NOS Fogger for example, and the pot itself including the gears have never failed. I plan on putting the 3.33 gears back in, in a couple of weeks, as i'm running out of gear with the turbo. I wish I could tell you something different to help you out.

ralph

Unless you only make a couple of passes a year, I find that hard to believe or you're extremely lucky. Based on my own experience along with observations of many many other racers, i've concluded that generally the reliability of the D44 becomes questionable at the 1.5-1.6 short time range. 1.4s are possible with a spool, but then other parts start to fail, such as spindles, ujoints, axles, shafts, etc. And they don't hold up at all in high power applications with manual transmissions. I can think of at least 10 examples to support this off the top of my head.

A D44 living behind a 420 on a 400 shot and a transbrake is simply amazing. Maybe you should donate your rear to the Smithsonian

0ski_dwn_it

I agree with Ralph, you should send that thing away to be analyzed!

As said before and as the BON JOVI sold goes - I think your livin on a PRAYER

When she goes, and I hope it doesn, its going to be stupendous.