Had my carb fixed at RevExtreme earlier today (blown power valves).
When they removed the power valves, they noticed that I had the wrong power valves in there. That might've been one of the problems that caused the high RPM misfire because the power valves would never open up because my cam doesn't make enough vacuum...
The high RPM misfire is now gone and I ran 10.76 @ 125.15 mph.
The temperature was 83 degrees with a heat index of 85 degrees. The humidity was low for Florida and the DA was the lowest of the summer so far (DA of 2250). The temperature dropped and I was shooting for a 10.60's ET but the car was swaying like crazy.. Checked the tire pressure after the 2nd run and the right rear slick only had 8 psi of air pressure. I set both tires to 13 psi before my first pass.. Somehow I'm loosing air in my right rear tire. I decided not to run anymore without checking the tire..
That is great Olivier. The tire checking thing is a good move
Well, I usually only check before the race..
The car swayed really bad on my 2nd pass and I had to get off the gas.. Thought that I was breaking loose but it was actually a tire pressure issue.. Hopefully I don't have a hole in the tire.. Don't think that ET Street tires can be repaired..
Power valves in a race car carburetor? On the primary side maybe, but not on the secondary side (and definitely not required on a Dominator). There again, two schools of thought on this argument..
Nice timeslip
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'70 Chevelle SS - "The Chevelle From Hell"- 565 BBC -naturally aspirated
'77 Nova "Disco Bumper" - Nitrous fed 439 BBC - NMCA True Street (and it IS a street car!)
All HP series carbs come with 2 power valves. I might get rid of the secondary power valve but need the primary one for footbraking. The A/F would be too rich when footbraking without the power valve on the primary side. My carb is the top HP series carb, a 80514 1000 cfm HP series carb. It's not a dominator but many dominators also come with power valves. (like the 8896). I checked the technical specs on the Holley website..
Nice job Olivier. Can you give us a few more details about your combo? (heads, Compression, LSA, exhaust, intake, gearing, shift points, etc). I'm running a similar combo, with a lot less cam & converter. thanks.
Nice job Olivier. Can you give us a few more details about your combo? (heads, Compression, LSA, exhaust, intake, gearing, shift points, etc). I'm running a similar combo, with a lot less cam & converter. thanks.
Ok, here are the details:
Heads: Dart Pro 1 230cc intake runners, fully ported and matched.
Cam: Comp Cams solid roller 264/270 degrees .050 duration and .672 lift (with 1.6 rocker arms), LSA is 106 degrees.
Compression: 12.8 : 1
Intake: Super Victor CNC 2825
Gearing: Rear gears are 4.11's (running 28 inch tall ET Street slicks)
Transmission gears: 2.74/1.57/1/0.67
It's a TH200R4 tranny. Not using the overdrive at the track
Shift points are at about 6800 RPM. Rev limiter is set to 7000 RPM so if I'm a little late when shifting, I bounce off the limiter...
My converter is a transbrake converter and really doesn't flash that high footbraking. Have never used my transbrake yet.. I have 7/16 wheel studs and don't want to risk breaking them with the transbrake...
Thanks. Your combo is actually a lot closer to my nephew's car except he's got a 434. Good luck with your continued progress.
The goal for now is 10.30's in winter (if I'll get to race up north). Florida is never cold enough
Maybe I'll add a 100 shot of NO2 and see if I'll be able to hit 9's..
If you were at 2250 ft, we see zero at etown in the fall and sometimes negative DAs. knocking off 1000ft is close to a tenth, so draw your own conclusions.
Yep,.... hes a "killer" now and at super low psi, simple tire spin can cause the bead to gap just enough to lose air. The drag rims you can buy any where have a good design to deal with it!
If you were at 2250 ft, we see zero at etown in the fall and sometimes negative DAs. knocking off 1000ft is close to a tenth, so draw your own conclusions.
According to the calculator on Smokemup (http://www.smokemup.com), I get following results. IF I'll be able to race in a negative 1000 DA..
Your results:
E.T. 10.76 (sec)
Trap Speed 125.15 (mph)
Measured DA 2250 (feet)
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Corrected to -1000(feet) DA
Corrected ET 10.369 (sec)
Corrected Trap Speed 130.002 (mph)
Yep,.... hes a "killer" now and at super low psi, simple tire spin can cause the bead to gap just enough to lose air. The drag rims you can buy any where have a good design to deal with it!
I have Centerline Convo Pro Drag Rims... but I'm not using screws.. The tire is NOT moving on the rim. I marked the tire against the rim with shoe polish and it didn't even move 1/10 of an inch..
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New best ET - 10.76 @ 125.15 mph
