It's in a black bottle and has a long slendor spout. Works great.
Just be sure and stay away from the 'sniff proof' glues. They work, for a while. After a few months or a year, you models start to fall apart.
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Meet the family: 1969 White/black Coupe; 300hp, A31, C60, J50, M20, N37, N40, Steeroids.
Member of Mid-America High Mileage Club 1968 Bronze/dark orange Roadster; 435hp, A01, J50, M21. 1991 ZR-1 #1135 Red/Red with both tops.
Can't forget my truck... 1986 K20 Bronze/tan. Always dirty but it works.
I've been building for 30 years, and I've always used good ol' Testors model glue in the orange and white tube. I've never had a problem with it, it works fine, and it's inexpensive. For clear parts like windows and lights, I use watch crystal cement from Micromark. I built my 1/8-scale GS several years ago and it's still in one piece ...
Cool ,, i will need to "lube" this model (1/4 scale working sbc) a long time ago i used "food" grade silicone as a lube . but the clinder's are clear and i don't want any yellowing or clouding.. is it still the best thing to use ????