C6C3Vettes

I have a stock 2013 GS that I've tracked several times. Last Saturday ran 4 times w/ 20 mins per run. Ambient temp was 78 degrees. I ran Hoosiers at 30 lbs when tires were cold. At the end of the day there was excessive wear on the driver's side front tire on the outside of the tire. This was a 2.2 mile flat road course. I new at this, but the lessons can be very $$$$. Is this camber, air pressure, both, neither???

sleeperstyle

what are your alignment settings? sounds like you need more negative camber, i read hoosiers need a lot of neg camber.

reading the stickies at the top of this section has saved me thousands of dollars, i recommend you do the same!

db2xpert

Outside edge only is generally too little neg camber.
Were you running CCW?
Have your alignment set, Pfadt specs are generally good.
What were your hot pressures?
30# may be a tick high. I run 28# frt, and 24# rear,
hot pressures are +6#.

ZedO6

The Hoosier site gives lots of info on proper setup for max tire life. Hoosier needs at least 2.5 neg camber to be effective. Do a track alignment next time and you'll get twice as much grip and much better tire wear!

froggy47

90% of the excess wear is not enough neg. camber.

Expensive pasttime to run h's with stock align settings.

Look to Pfadt align chart & be guided.

RX-Ben

And with stock bushings.
Anyone's guess where your dynamic camber is with the OEM floppies, but obviously not good from the tire wear.

X25

You guys all recommend Pfadt's settings, but their site (Performance street - track use with race tires) does not recommend camber values as aggressive as that. Actually, it recommends about 1.6-1.8 and R6s are not even race tires. Would, say, -1.8 be enough?

FYI, I'm running Cup ZP tires (ZR1 sizes) with Pfadt's settings I mentioned above at -1.8 camber, and even though they were at the outer edge a bit faster, they seem to be wearing OK.

JeremyGSU

Well, I believe that chart is meant more for "street" driving than track so they back the numbers down so one doesn't wear their tires out as much. If your car is more of a track car than street car then I would max out the camber as much as you can with the oe suspension.

I have mine maxed out on my C5 Z but don't care about street tire wear because I don't drive it that much. I am however still on the oe bushings and don't want to go stiffer even though I run slicks because it is still a street car and I don't want it to ride terrible.

J.R.

Hoosier R6's or A6's require more camber, even though they are rated as DOT tires - they are race tires.

Also, as per RX-Ben, you are getting extreme distortion with stock bushings and with the R6's grip level you may even be seeing zero or positive camber during certain track sections that you may be approaching 1.5g's plus.

You may be able to research a you tube video that Pfadt put out a couple of years ago that showed the distortion the stock front control arm bushings saw under track loading.

Lawdogg

I wouldn't run Hoosiers without at least doing poly bushings to limit the camber loss from the oem rubber bushings. I would also have at least -2.5 degrees of camber as Zed06 stated.

ZedO6

Actually very good advice...for casual track days on an almost stock Corvette, there are longer wearing options that are designed for street/track camber settings and the limitations (read dynamic + camber change) inherent in OEM bushings.

Nitto 555RII, Toyo 888's and various Kumho's and the Michelin Pilot Cup Sport are some other DOT competition tires that will work better with less camber.

With that said, ALL the other options will need at least -1.5 camber to equalize outer tread block wear IMHO.

TMyers

I run R888's with Poly Bushings and even with 1.5 you will wear the outside faster then the inside.

rfn026

Start taking tire temps. Once you have a data base you can work with Hoosier on your alignment settings.

Richard Newton
Car Tech Stuff