dsddcd

I have been racing now for the last few years and I generally take (2) vehicles and drive the car to the local track. I am wanting to take the next step and start running at some new tracks in hope that I can find the time away from work to start running in either an SCCA or NASA circuit.

I have a Trailblazer with the inline 6 so I don't want an enclosed trailer as I believe this will be too much for it. I am thinking of getting a steel or aluminum open car hauler then throwing on a 10,000# winch and call it a day. With the winch, trailer, spare wheel..... I was hoping to stay around $5K and if I am really lucky find one in the Midwest.

That being said I have a few questions.

1.) Are there any trailers that you would recommend?
2.) Is it worth it to spend the extra on an aluminum trailer?
3.) Other than a winch and potentially a tire rack would you recommend any other accessories for an open trailer?
4.) Do you use a trailer sway bar system?
5.) Is the winch powered from your vehicle or have it's own deep cycle battery mounted on the trailer?

geerookie

#1 An inexpensive steel trailer, this is what I had.
http://www.econotrailer.com/

#2 Not in my opinion. You can buy steel and yes it will drop in value but you spend so much more for aluminum and the market when you sell is limited due to higher cost for aluminum trailers and you still will lose more than what you paid for a new steel one.

#3 I put a tool box on it to store straps etc.

#4 I towed with the same vehicle. I didn't use any sway control or load leveling at first. I can't even explain how much better towing with load leveling is! It is worth every penny!

#5 I used a deep cycle battery mounted on the trailer and had it pre-wired for a charger and just charged it when the trailer sat next to my shop. If I forgot it would make it through at least 3 weekends without a charge.

Bill Dearborn

Bill

Last C5

1.) Are there any trailers that you would recommend?

Featherlite 3110 17' 6" 1220 lbs comes with four wheel brakes and LED lighting. My lowered Z loads and unloads without drama.

2.) Is it worth it to spend the extra on an aluminum trailer?

Yes, especially if you're worried about weight or live in a wet area and are worried about rust.

3.) Other than a winch and potentially a tire rack would you recommend any other accessories for an open trailer?

A tool box with a 3,000 to 4,000 lb winch in it. (You don't need a 10K winch, you're not lifting the car onto the trailer) I use a 3,700 lb Warn Utility.

4.) Do you use a trailer sway bar system?

No, car and trailer only weigh about 4,000 lbs

5.) Is the winch powered from your vehicle or have it's own deep cycle battery mounted on the trailer?

I have a battery mounted in the tool box on the trailer. Personal preference.

JerryTX

I think your tow vehicle is at the limit; that being the case I'd recommend a simple steel trailer, that is all. Skip the winch, toolbox and tire rack. If you go aluminum then add back in the toolbox and tire rack. In either case, get the WDH hitch so you can spread the load and put as much weight as is legally allowed on the front axle of your Trailblazer so it tows with some stability in a crosswind and is sure footed in the rain.

c4cruiser

YOu need to look in your owner's manual to see what the maximum weight the Trailblazer can tow. There will be a table that shows the max load given the various options on it. There will be separate tables for 2WD and 4WD.

When you are looking at gross weights, remember that the total will include all of the passengers and cargo that will go into the vehicle. Once you get the total towed weight, add your buddies, the kids, the dog, the wife and/or girlfriend, and whatever cargo you stuff in. You also have to add in the tongue weight of the loaded trailer (that's 10-15% of the gross trailer weight). It's a good idea to never exceed 80-85% of the total gross weight capacity of the tow vehicle.

As mentioned, a weight distribution system is always a good idea and it will balance the load across the front and rear axles of the tow vehicle.

You will need an electric trailer brake controller. Get a Prodigy; the best one on the market. Also look carefully at the tow vehicle's brakes. You may want to consider new pads that are made for hauling or towing heavy loads. Also, check your state laws regarding trailer brakes. Some states will require brakes on both axles if the trailer weighs more than 2000 lbs. Get brakes on both axles in any event.

Also look for "bearing buddies" for the wheel bearings. These allow you to grease the trailer wheel bearings with a grease gun.

dsddcd

Wow, you guys have some great tips. I really appreciate all the tips, I don't tow much so this is all some what new to me. I had no idea about many of these things such as the load leveling hitch or 4 wheel brakes.

It will be a huge weight off my back if I am not super concerned that I would have a massive failure on track every time I go out. Years ago a bleeder screw blew out of my caliper and using hand tools I temporarily repaired it but it was a nightmare.

waddisme

#1 and #2 - Advantages to both, but whichever you get, you can get most of your money back out of later as these things do not devalue much. For me, I found a local builder who built me a steel trailer exactly like I wanted, 18', dovetail, removable fender, extended ramps, dual brakes. For me the extra $300 was worth it for the full steel flooring (can use it for other things).

#3 - spare tire mount for the side as a tire rack should be full of racing tires

#4 - I pull with a full size Tundra so I haven't felt a need for this.

#5 - I did have a battery for winching, but it always seemed to be dead, so I bought a $45 pair of 25ft jumper cables from Amazon and it works fine, plus the extra length is handy for jump starting other cars without having to move vehicles.

Good luck with it.

TheKomoman

Lots of good advice here. Only thing I'd add steel vs. aluminum is do you think the trailer is something you'll keep for a long time? If so with aluminum you don't have worry about rust and depreciation is far less of an issue the longer you hang onto it.

Wicked Weasel

If you are keeping your tow vehicle I would either do open center trailer or aluminum to save on weight.

The strange part of towing is you start out with just the car then you decide to add a winch, then toolbox, then extra tires, then extra gas, then shelter, then a BBQ, well maybe not the bbq but you get the idea. Weight will quickly add up and you will be at your capacity. You can add a weight distribution hitch but then you are reaching capacity of the engine and transmission.

That being said I towed for years with my TBSS and weight distribution hitch without issue but then again it does have a bigger engine and better suspension.

dapopa9

I'm looking into a trailer for the first time as well just like the OP.

What and how do you go about securing the car to the trailer?
Are the wood deck trailers okay to use as well?
Is winch necessary or is it doable to drive the car up on the trailer?

Last C5

Most people use J Hooks attached to the factory hold down points with the straps crossed to hold the cars.

Nothing wrong with a wood deck trailer except they are heavy.

You only use the winch when the car can no longer drive onto the trailer under it's own power.

dsddcd

My truck is only rated for 5,200 with the 3.42:1 axle which is what I have. So with the car weighing in at say 3,200# that leaves only 2,000# for the trailer it's self. To be honest that does not leave much, I can imagine I will be running in 3rd quite a bit.

Since I got one of the last 08 TB's made and it only has 90K highway, I still have at least half if not more front and rear brake pad, I plan to keep it for some time to come. To test the waters I think I might rent one of the aluminum U-Haul car haulers, they are only $55/day here, and try it be for I buy it. I can hook it up and try my S2000 which is about 400# lighter than the Vette and see how it pulls.

I really appreciate all your opinions! There is some great stuff here, the art of setting up the trailer is almost as addicting as the actual racing!

dapopa9

and where at on the car are you running the straps? Or what on the car are you connecting the straps to?

JerryTX

U Haul Car hauler advice: they use wheel nets. It will be hard to do with a Vette and get them over the wheels but it is doable. Check 3x to make sure there is no slack behind the front wheel, feel with your hands, you won't be able to see it. Use the safety chain too. There is a safety chain at the rear of the trailer and two wheels nets at the front. Drive 5 miles and pull over and give the wheel nets more torque, and do it at every stop. Nothing wrong with wheel nets but on a lowered car where you can't see if there is slack bunched up behind a wheel tucked into the fender... its tough. You gotta be careful.

I used u Hauls for years, nothing wrong with them. I fabbed up extra wood pieces for my M3 to get it on the trailer and to clear the front lip etc. Just takes some ingenuity. BTW: they are galvanized steel not aluminum. Also consider driving the rear wheels of the tow vehicle up onto Rhino ramps to get the rear of the trailer lower for a low vehicle.

Last C5

The J hooks fit into the four slots you normally use for jacking pucks. Then the ratchet straps run from the right front slot on the car to the left front of the trailer and so forth around the car.

dsddcd

Great tips, I would have never thought about raising the rear of the tow vehicle to get the trailer lower! Do you think I could just buy some straps to use with the OEM tow hook holes and ditch the wheel nets all together?

Socko

I know my saab 97x aero is a tbss and both have a tow limit of 6600 and at 4000 you need a weight distribution hitch.

I BELIEVE that the 5.3 has the same tow capacity and the 4.2 has less. I know my truck has better brakes, though it may just be pads, and it has a 3/4 ton rear axle, 4l65 w/ awd transfer case, and ls2. So it is fairly beefy relative to the 4.2. I bought the saab specifically to leave myself the option of towing the c5. Only thing I could find that I could fit in my garage(6'1" garage door) and feel comfortable towing the vette on beside a durango(HAHA) and the old rwd explorers.

I looked into going down to cota last year and got on the uhaul trailer kick. They are VERY heavy i found the weight on the page, i am thinking off the top of my head it was 2200 lbs. I suspect you will need a purpose built car trailer if you want to be close to the limit of the 4.2's towing capacity. Remember the tow capacity is the capacity of the vehicle empty, it isn't additive with the occupancy rating. So all the crap and people you load in the truck are going to cut into your capacity. Though MANY people go beyond the ratings, not worth it for me. I have a hard time believing it will tow 5200 well without a weight distributing hitch, which would be much easier to install on something you can drill into. Though you may be able to get ones that don't require drilling/welding.

2 GTOs

I went with the trailex 8045. Weighs about 1000 lbs. it has an open center which helps to make it lighter, and I usually do my suspension checks and oil change while it is on the trailer after I finish an event. They are pricey, but hold their value if you want to sell later. I think being light helps with the gas mileage as well. I can also easily push it around the driveway. They are bolt together design so they can be customized pretty easy. I am able to drive my car on and off with the drive door open.

Because of the design, you can't use a weight distribution hitch. They are very popular with the Porsche guys and they pull them with their Cayenne's.

I know a dealer in NJ will discount about 10% if you speak with him.

Nothing wrong with the other suggestions people have made as well.

I also use T hooks rather than J hooks. No reason other than that was suggested to me at the time.

trapp

Are you looking open or closed...I'm going to sell my kwikload 18 foot trailer soon if your interested

Tom