froggy47

Using ARP bolt, they specify red loctite.

ARP says just go to 250 one pass & stop.

Not pinning, not supposed to need it if no supercharger.

Antisieze on the crank, ATI recommends this for their damper.

I don't have any GM FSM tools, so work with me.

Rear wheels are on the ground, park brake on tight.

What is the best gear to put the most resistance so I don't slip the clutch, clutch is good, stock.

Do you think I can get 250 without slipping the clutch?

Is there a way to stake the flywheel without the special gm tool?

Thanks.



The FSM mentions doing a crank position sensor procedure, but I don't see how that is required? A couple of guys I know have replaced these (at the track) as the stock bolt tends to loosen. They never do any crank position sensor routine, just start it up.

varkwso

There is a GM tool to lock down flywheel but I use a generic flywheel tool.

geerookie

I take my ATI damper on and off way too often but it's a breeze.

To put it on, I heat the center that goes on the crank to 200 degrees or so with a propane torch (wife won't let me put it in the oven) then just push it on the crank. If you get it aligned right it will go about 85% of the way with a push. Then I use an old GM bolt to push it on the rest of the way before it completely cools.
Then clean out the hole with some brakleen and air, clean the ARP bolt, put on some red loctite and put the bolt in. If the motor is in the car remove the clutch inspection plate and stick a large screwdriver in one of the holes of the flywheel/starter ring and slowly tighten the bolt until the screwdriver catches, once it does tighten until really tight I use a 1/2" breaker bar with a 36" pipe and call it good.
Never had one come loose whether using the GM bolt or the ARP bolt.

geerookie

6th gear will give you the best mechanical advantage and the clutch better hold 250lbs or it is time to get a new clutch. A tired LS1 is good for around 360lbs of torque.

froggy47

Thanks guys.



I have the balancer all assembled, can I still heat the center even with the 2 pullies on?

VGLNTE1

You don't need to if you have a longer bolt. Also, put the car in 6th gear. It may want to drive forward, but it won't go anywhere. Have someone step on the brakes if you wig out

geerookie

Yes

froggy47

Went on easy, heated about 5 min on low propane flame, turning.

Slipped on by hand at least 1/2 way, seated it w/ old bolt.

Maybe 50 ft lb to seat it down.


New arp to finish I got 235 ftlb and called it good.

Pully lines up good by eyeball.

Thanks all again, now to wrestle the rack.



I just left it in 6th, I felt the engine turn to take the slack in the driveline & that was it, no need to pin the fly.

froggy47

Done, will post the vid in a couple of days, thanks again all.

victorf

froggy47, job well done.

After I did mine, I noticed the belt had a slight runout that also affected the ATI pulley. The only other pulley had the same effect was the oem tensioner. Culprit was the excessive runout on the oem tensioner.

I changed the tensioner to Katech and reinstall after replaced Chinese bearing(came w/Katech) with quality Japan sealed bearing and all is well without runout.

Maybe yours is ok?

froggy47

By runout you mean the offset of the tensioner was off to one side or the other?

victorf

No, eccentric pulley runout (wobble) was similar to oem damper when it goes bad. Only a little, but that was not acceptable for me.

Since ATI belt pulley is cushioned with "O" rings internally, my stock tensioner's excessive runout carried the effect thru the running belt onto the ATI. But once installed the Katech, ATI pulley has no more runout.

froggy47

I see. Mine is ok so far, I replaced the two a/c pullies & I disassembled & greased the main belt pullies. Ran an autox event today & no issues. Will keep in mind though. Thanks for the tip.

Shaka

Down shift like this to save damper, chain and prevention of valve piston marriage. This is the reason Tadge had the engine blip electronically to save warranty costs on the new car.

Autos don't have damper problems. The damper is probably mounted the same way on the LT1 because of the physics involved in damper design.
I read somewhere that someone suggested machining a key into the damper and crankshaft. Not a good idea considering the unique structure of this engine.