Looking for advice on choosing R-compound or R6 for new car
#1
Track Junky
Thread Starter
Looking for advice on choosing R-compound or R6 for new car
Hey guys,
I just bought a C5Z track only car and I'm torn on which tires to buy for the first few events. Previously I have run R6's and full race slicks (Hoosier R100's and Yoko Advan).
This C5Z will not be run with any nannies (AH or TC) and I think I need to back up a couple steps in tire to get acquainted with the new car. My question is should I back up to R6's or even more to an R-compound? I felt plenty comfortable on R6's previously but have never run without the nannies off. I could easily feel when the R6's were approaching their limit (felt like driving over gravel) but not the full race slicks (they dropped off too fast without much warning).
I'm looking to find a tire that, if driven past its limit, would be recoverable without too much effort. For those of you who have run R-compounds and Hoosier R6's (I never ran R compounds - moved from PS2's to R6's), is there a huge difference in the way each tire drops off when driven past their limit? I realize that the Hoosier will fall off a bit faster, but is the difference significant?
If I stay with Hoosier, I figure I can limp around for a bit and test the tire and my ability in the slow corners, slowly working up my speed in the fast corners.
Thanks in advance for any opinions or suggestions.
Sean
I just bought a C5Z track only car and I'm torn on which tires to buy for the first few events. Previously I have run R6's and full race slicks (Hoosier R100's and Yoko Advan).
This C5Z will not be run with any nannies (AH or TC) and I think I need to back up a couple steps in tire to get acquainted with the new car. My question is should I back up to R6's or even more to an R-compound? I felt plenty comfortable on R6's previously but have never run without the nannies off. I could easily feel when the R6's were approaching their limit (felt like driving over gravel) but not the full race slicks (they dropped off too fast without much warning).
I'm looking to find a tire that, if driven past its limit, would be recoverable without too much effort. For those of you who have run R-compounds and Hoosier R6's (I never ran R compounds - moved from PS2's to R6's), is there a huge difference in the way each tire drops off when driven past their limit? I realize that the Hoosier will fall off a bit faster, but is the difference significant?
If I stay with Hoosier, I figure I can limp around for a bit and test the tire and my ability in the slow corners, slowly working up my speed in the fast corners.
Thanks in advance for any opinions or suggestions.
Sean
#2
Drifting
I recommend running 315 Nitto NT01. I've run the same track with brand new R6s 295s and was within 3/10th of a second and the nittos last a very long time (10-12 track days) and are much more fun and consistent. 2 cents.
#3
Track Junky
Thread Starter
I'm very interested in hearing the difference between the two tires at their limit - how does the behavior differ between the two?
#4
Track Junky
Thread Starter
Another variable for me to consider...
R6 scrubs are easy to find - about $450 shipped to the door. NT-01's will have to be purchased new - $1100-1400 depending on which set of rims I'm buying for.
I will eventually end up on R6's as soon as I feel comfortable in the car. My background includes running advanced group with FARA and HOD, intermediate with NASA and Chin (mostly because I haven't been checked out for advanced yet). 18-20 total track days under my belt in my old C6, all on the same track - about 1000 laps there and counting.
R6 scrubs are easy to find - about $450 shipped to the door. NT-01's will have to be purchased new - $1100-1400 depending on which set of rims I'm buying for.
I will eventually end up on R6's as soon as I feel comfortable in the car. My background includes running advanced group with FARA and HOD, intermediate with NASA and Chin (mostly because I haven't been checked out for advanced yet). 18-20 total track days under my belt in my old C6, all on the same track - about 1000 laps there and counting.
#5
Drifting
The Nittos have excellent feel at the limit. I like them because lap after lap its the same feel. They are noisier than the r6s but I like that and they have excellent heat recovery (far superior than R6s in my option). I'm not sure what you mean by gravelly. The NT01s also get better after a few weekends. I personally have no love for the R6s. Too much money for a tire than is like ice for the first lap and done after the 4th lap. YMMV.
#6
Drifting
I'll add that I will either run Nt01s or a true slick from now on (i.e. Michelin SH9s).
#7
Track Junky
Thread Starter
By "gravely", I mean that it feels like the front tires are driving over very fine gravel through the steering wheel. You can feel the tires slipping relative to the pavement. To correct, simply unwind the steering wheel slightly until traction is regained and slowly load the tires back up again.
Does that make sense?
Does that make sense?
#8
Melting Slicks
I know which car you bought and as long as you make sure it has a good alignment and setup you won't have any issues on r-comps or R6/A6 tires IMO. I have the same car and it's basically a stock C5Z with a T1 suspension kit. The car is easy to control so I would just go with the tires you are used to and can find cheaply. I would recommend 295 front and 315 rear for starters. Have fun!
#9
Track Junky
Thread Starter
I know which car you bought and as long as you make sure it has a good alignment and setup you won't have any issues on r-comps or R6/A6 tires IMO. I have the same car and it's basically a stock C5Z with a T1 suspension kit. The car is easy to control so I would just go with the tires you are used to and can find cheaply. I would recommend 295 front and 315 rear for starters. Have fun!
17x10F and 18x11R CCW wheels
18x10.5 C5Z square wheels
I'm just a bit reluctant to jump into R6's without knowing the car first. On the contrary, I can buy 2-3 pairs of scrubs for the cost of one set of new NT-01's.
#10
Drifting
I recommend trying out the Nitto NT555R II. They are an excellent tire. I've run them for 15 events now. They provide excellent grip, feedback, and tire wear and let you know exactly what they are doing. If it wasn't for cost and discontinuing I would probably still get them.
However, they are still plenty available on Amazon. That's where I've been buying them.
I run the rear Z wheels all around in 285 front and 305 rear. The car is very balanced with this setup and the Johnny OConnell package.
I have chased plenty of people with Hoosiers and driven cars with the Continental slicks. I really don't feel like these are that far behind.
However, they are still plenty available on Amazon. That's where I've been buying them.
I run the rear Z wheels all around in 285 front and 305 rear. The car is very balanced with this setup and the Johnny OConnell package.
I have chased plenty of people with Hoosiers and driven cars with the Continental slicks. I really don't feel like these are that far behind.
#11
Track Junky
Thread Starter
Thanks Jeremy, I hadn't considered this option yet but will now. In reality, I need a tire to get me through the first 2-4 events as I should be able to completely shakedown the car by then. Although I'd love to have a tire last me 10-12 events, I want to get back into DOT or true race slicks before the year is over.
#12
Drifting
I have found the R6's to be a great all around track tire. There are two things that make all the difference in the world. Alignment is key, with the right alignment, you wont wear them prematurely. The other thing is pressure. I have experimented with every pressure level and fiind that if I can manage the pressures such that they reach operating temp at about 35 to maximum 36 psi, then I get great traction, and they last. I think buying scrubs from a reputable source and managing pressures and align. will see you spending no more than you would for new nittos, but with better traction. My .02 worth. Jerry
#13
Track Junky
Thread Starter
I have found the R6's to be a great all around track tire. There are two things that make all the difference in the world. Alignment is key, with the right alignment, you wont wear them prematurely. The other thing is pressure. I have experimented with every pressure level and fiind that if I can manage the pressures such that they reach operating temp at about 35 to maximum 36 psi, then I get great traction, and they last. I think buying scrubs from a reputable source and managing pressures and align. will see you spending no more than you would for new nittos, but with better traction. My .02 worth. Jerry
Any other guys with differences between R-compounds and R6's?
#14
Drifting
Thanks Jeremy, I hadn't considered this option yet but will now. In reality, I need a tire to get me through the first 2-4 events as I should be able to completely shakedown the car by then. Although I'd love to have a tire last me 10-12 events, I want to get back into DOT or true race slicks before the year is over.
After these wear out I'm going to used Continental slicks. For the money they just can't be beat.
#15
Le Mans Master
Honestly, go with what you can find the cheapest. Know that is not what you wanted to hear, but unless your made of serious money, that is the best alternative. In retrospect, I tried several brands compounds over the years and when it comes to HPDE they are all somewhat negligible to each other. Now if you are doing TT or racing, that is different story, you will need new tires and the best you can find that are legal in the class. Usually that seems to be A6's if you need DOT legal.
#16
Track Junky
Thread Starter
Jersey, I think you and most of the others are right. I can buy R6 scrubs at about a third the price of new R-compounds. That will leave some budget for a HANS and track insurance if I want some added security.
My biggest fear is the faster corners. I'd hate to be too aggressive turning into turn 1 at HMS doing 115-120 and find out the hard way I was wrong... I will just have to dial back a bit until I'm completely comfortable.
My biggest fear is the faster corners. I'd hate to be too aggressive turning into turn 1 at HMS doing 115-120 and find out the hard way I was wrong... I will just have to dial back a bit until I'm completely comfortable.
#17
Safety Car
Sean I would go with the tires you plan to run long term. There is no sense learing the car with Nittos if you're going to ultimately run A6's or R6's. The biggest thing you will notice needing adjustment between different tires is your turn in point. Ultimate grip and accelleration are different, but irrelevant, as far as "getting used to" a tire.
Don't stress too much about the car being different, it's exactly the same car you've been driving with less weight and less power. You won't have a big learning curve, my guess is within a weekend you'll be running faster laptimes than in the C6.
I bounce between the C6 and a C5 all the time and they're not much different to drive. If anything, the C6 is squirrely under hard braking and the C5 is more stable.
Just get on track and enjoy that thing!
Don't stress too much about the car being different, it's exactly the same car you've been driving with less weight and less power. You won't have a big learning curve, my guess is within a weekend you'll be running faster laptimes than in the C6.
I bounce between the C6 and a C5 all the time and they're not much different to drive. If anything, the C6 is squirrely under hard braking and the C5 is more stable.
Just get on track and enjoy that thing!
#18
Le Mans Master
I would recommend that you run full (scrub) slicks from Forum vendor GT Racing tires. They are cheap, stick well, and will last longer than the R Comps. At least run the slicks initially and if you don't like them then go to R Comps.
#19
Track Junky
Thread Starter
All in all I want tire that will drop off progressively, not one that lets to all at once. Does that make any sense at all? I tend to type gibberish sometimes.
Sean
#20
A bit off topic, but can anyone with an R6 take a look at the sidewall and tell me what the treadwear rating is? I cannot find it anywhere online and all I see listed is 40 for both A and R compound, but I believe R is higher.