Lower Z on stock bolts?
04-24-2013, 10:45 AM
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Lower Z on stock bolts?
Considering lowering my car on the stock bolts or lowering bolts. My freinds keep giving me hell for my stock ride height (damn mustang owners). Trying to figure out if this will help or hurt how my current 07 Z handles. I know I will probably need an alignment. Figured I would ask the track guys. Thoughts?
04-24-2013, 11:24 PM
#2
Instructor
Mine car is not a Z, but a C6 coupe with the Z51 option. There should be some reasonable level of similarity in the observations.
I felt like my car was always a bit high from the factory. I also measured the frame rail height and it was not level nor did it have a lot of chassis rake. After 10k miles, I lowered it about 3/4 of an inch. The biggest things I noticed relative to handling were: less body roll, a tick more understeer, and less aero lift on the nose at high speed (125+). Less body roll and aero lift are good things. The additional understeer was minimal.
Occassionally, on the street and at an AX event, I have felt the car touch the snubbers - nothing dramatic, but you can feel the spring stoppers. Have never felt that on the track. Ride quality did not change, except there is less suspension travel available. I was able to add more camber to both front and rear. I also went back and took some negative rear camber out, about +.20 less than the front, to help equalize the understeer. Overall, I am happy with the lowering and feel it was beneficial for the track.
You will need to realign the car. Note that just cranking on the bolts is not the right way. You need to set the frame height in both left/right and front/rear dimensions. Don't use the fender openings as reference points. There is a reccommended amount of chassis rake that you should dial in. See your manual for the measurement locating points on the chassis.
If you only drive on the street, then lower to the cosmetic point you want and then have the car realigned to street specs. You won't have any tire clearance issues.
Hope that helps.
I felt like my car was always a bit high from the factory. I also measured the frame rail height and it was not level nor did it have a lot of chassis rake. After 10k miles, I lowered it about 3/4 of an inch. The biggest things I noticed relative to handling were: less body roll, a tick more understeer, and less aero lift on the nose at high speed (125+). Less body roll and aero lift are good things. The additional understeer was minimal.
Occassionally, on the street and at an AX event, I have felt the car touch the snubbers - nothing dramatic, but you can feel the spring stoppers. Have never felt that on the track. Ride quality did not change, except there is less suspension travel available. I was able to add more camber to both front and rear. I also went back and took some negative rear camber out, about +.20 less than the front, to help equalize the understeer. Overall, I am happy with the lowering and feel it was beneficial for the track.
You will need to realign the car. Note that just cranking on the bolts is not the right way. You need to set the frame height in both left/right and front/rear dimensions. Don't use the fender openings as reference points. There is a reccommended amount of chassis rake that you should dial in. See your manual for the measurement locating points on the chassis.
If you only drive on the street, then lower to the cosmetic point you want and then have the car realigned to street specs. You won't have any tire clearance issues.
Hope that helps.
04-25-2013, 08:31 AM
#4
Drifting
One thing, don't over lower it. I had mine maxed out on the stock bolts and decided to raise it some. Wow. The car road so much better because the shocks were actually working now and the handling was not sacrificed.
04-25-2013, 12:48 PM
#5
Race Director
Generally if you only go to the stock minimum, you are fine. Just don't cut anything or use cut/longer bolts
Also, unless you have scales,be symmetric. If one bolt has no adjustment, don't slam the other corners on the car
Also, unless you have scales,be symmetric. If one bolt has no adjustment, don't slam the other corners on the car