Help me customize my trailer for road racing
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Help me customize my trailer for road racing
I have recently purchased a 26 ft enclosed trailer. It has a left hand door for loading, a right hand man door as well as the tail gate. I would like to see pictures of how you built yours. What you decided to include and how. Some ideas I'd like to incorporate in mine are a 120v feed to run lights, 12v/120v fridge, compressor and possible a roof top AC. A work bench with vise, tool box, Racks for race tires, oil, fuel, tiedowns ect. winch and a 12v battery. What have I missed? Thanks in advance for your pictures.
#2
All your ideas are great. I don't have any photos to share of mine unfortunately. First item on any trailer upgrade list should be a solidly mounted winch and battery.
As an alternative to carrying around a compressor you can just buy a bottle of compressed nitrogen at your local welding supply. Takes up less space.
I lined all my trailer walls with 1/2 plywood and used steel threaded inserts to mount them to the aluminum studs so they are ultra strong. Also, instead of simply using fasteners I used tie down rings which required two bolts per location. The advantage is that my entire trailer has hooks around all the walls where there are no cabinets which is pretty convenient.
I mounted a few aluminum cabinets as well as a foldup tire rack. I can't seem to remember the brand and a quick search comes up with nothing I recognize(maybe out of business), but they were very affordable and good quality.
As mentioned above, I used steel threaded inserts in the wall studs for everything and added tee nuts to the back of the plywood to further support the cabinets. The walls will cave in before anything attached to them comes loose. No self tapping or sheetmetal type screws. It took forever to mount probably a couple hundred threaded inserts but it was a one time deal.
As an alternative to carrying around a compressor you can just buy a bottle of compressed nitrogen at your local welding supply. Takes up less space.
I lined all my trailer walls with 1/2 plywood and used steel threaded inserts to mount them to the aluminum studs so they are ultra strong. Also, instead of simply using fasteners I used tie down rings which required two bolts per location. The advantage is that my entire trailer has hooks around all the walls where there are no cabinets which is pretty convenient.
I mounted a few aluminum cabinets as well as a foldup tire rack. I can't seem to remember the brand and a quick search comes up with nothing I recognize(maybe out of business), but they were very affordable and good quality.
As mentioned above, I used steel threaded inserts in the wall studs for everything and added tee nuts to the back of the plywood to further support the cabinets. The walls will cave in before anything attached to them comes loose. No self tapping or sheetmetal type screws. It took forever to mount probably a couple hundred threaded inserts but it was a one time deal.
#3
Drifting
Another alternative to compressor, or air tank, or nitrogen is the Sears 19.2 volt battery powered inflator. It will pump up a flat hoosier in about 3 to 4 minutes tops. It is so easy to carry, and all you have to do is make sure the battery is charged. I recommend a spare charged battery. When you have that and the same battery driven 1/2 inch torque gun (like a drill driver only heavier), you can handle a lot of wheel tire issues. Jerry
The nitrogen is a good idea however, because your tires won't heat up as much. Jerry
The nitrogen is a good idea however, because your tires won't heat up as much. Jerry
#4
Team Owner
As you think about things to go into or on the trailer, keep a list of the weights of everything. All that stuff is more weight to haul around. Depending on where the car sits and where you put everything, it can change the tongue weight which also changes the weight on the truck.
This website has some really nice car trailer accessories.
Here's another website for lighting products.
If you don't have tie down straps as yet, look here
This website has some really nice car trailer accessories.
Here's another website for lighting products.
If you don't have tie down straps as yet, look here
#6
Safety Car
Moduline cabinets are really nice, made out of aluminum and cost about 1/2 what Lista want for the same thing.
I put them in my old trailer, but can't find any pictures. I have them in the shop as well...
I put them in my old trailer, but can't find any pictures. I have them in the shop as well...
#7
Le Mans Master
Is that your shop in those pictures?
#10
Safety Car
#11
Le Mans Master
Wow! Very nice! Tastefully done.
#13
Safety Car
... through the door on the right is the bar...with up to 3 beers on tap.
It's interesting to see new guys from the Corvette Club walk in with wives for the first time...he says "Wow"...she says "Don't even think about it!"
I'm sure I've been the subject of domestic bliss on many drives back to town...
Last edited by 1991Z07; 04-13-2013 at 10:58 AM.
#15
Team Owner
I was going to post some pics of my trailer- but DAMN.... I'd give both my nuts for that garage. That is man cave 101 right there.
#16
I have recently purchased a 26 ft enclosed trailer. It has a left hand door for loading, a right hand man door as well as the tail gate. I would like to see pictures of how you built yours. What you decided to include and how. Some ideas I'd like to incorporate in mine are a 120v feed to run lights, 12v/120v fridge, compressor and possible a roof top AC. A work bench with vise, tool box, Racks for race tires, oil, fuel, tiedowns ect. winch and a 12v battery. What have I missed? Thanks in advance for your pictures.
You haven't missed much but forget the vise...I got one about 3 years ago...it's still in the box. a lot of weight for the trailer.
speaking of weight, like stated above, you need to be aware of what you put in and WHERE you put it.
With the length you probably have a big truck to pull it, so you just want to make sure you are not going past the weight specs.
You probably already have D rated tires, if not upgrade to them and keep two spares, and make sure you are ALWAYS at the correct tire pressures. trailer tire fail a lot...low tire pressure is bad.
Also, on the drivers access door...you may have to install several 2x12's to get the drivers door to clear the door. I've seen tons of trailers for track guys to racers and they all have this.
make sure you add the trailer to your insurance policy...it's pretty cheap.
My policy is take what you will need, but don't take everything you think you will possibly need.
The obvious things you have left out are: the HDTV 37"-40" is acceptable, the cappuccino machine, and live satellite radar weather feed.
#17
Safety Car
The left hand door is called the curb side door, and the one on the other side the driver access door; that door is why you don't need a winch...unless your car is broke and then you need a winch (or 3-4 buddies).
You haven't missed much but forget the vise...I got one about 3 years ago...it's still in the box. a lot of weight for the trailer.
speaking of weight, like stated above, you need to be aware of what you put in and WHERE you put it.
With the length you probably have a big truck to pull it, so you just want to make sure you are not going past the weight specs.
You probably already have D rated tires, if not upgrade to them and keep two spares, and make sure you are ALWAYS at the correct tire pressures. trailer tire fail a lot...low tire pressure is bad.
Also, on the drivers access door...you may have to install several 2x12's to get the drivers door to clear the door. I've seen tons of trailers for track guys to racers and they all have this.
make sure you add the trailer to your insurance policy...it's pretty cheap.
My policy is take what you will need, but don't take everything you think you will possibly need.
The obvious things you have left out are: the HDTV 37"-40" is acceptable, the cappuccino machine, and live satellite radar weather feed.
You haven't missed much but forget the vise...I got one about 3 years ago...it's still in the box. a lot of weight for the trailer.
speaking of weight, like stated above, you need to be aware of what you put in and WHERE you put it.
With the length you probably have a big truck to pull it, so you just want to make sure you are not going past the weight specs.
You probably already have D rated tires, if not upgrade to them and keep two spares, and make sure you are ALWAYS at the correct tire pressures. trailer tire fail a lot...low tire pressure is bad.
Also, on the drivers access door...you may have to install several 2x12's to get the drivers door to clear the door. I've seen tons of trailers for track guys to racers and they all have this.
make sure you add the trailer to your insurance policy...it's pretty cheap.
My policy is take what you will need, but don't take everything you think you will possibly need.
The obvious things you have left out are: the HDTV 37"-40" is acceptable, the cappuccino machine, and live satellite radar weather feed.
#18
Safety Car
As someone who suffered through the Texas heat with that trailer...I HIGHLY recommend getting a rooftop A/C unit and a small generator to run it. Nothing like getting out of the heat between runs. I have the bus to get in now...but when I first started I was pulling with the Suburban and it got old cooling off inside the truck.
I know a few people who put fold-down cots on the walls and slept in their trailers at events...saving on hotel rooms. They took camp showers (5 gallon jug with a shower head attached)...I'm not too sure about that one, but you CAN do it.
The nice thing about the aluminum cabinets is they are pretty light...and getting a bunch of overheads you can put them to the roof along the sides and balance the weight better. You'll still want a few floor cabinets up front...but all in all you can really fix a trailer up nice with a little money.