T1 bar bushing mounts
04-09-2013, 02:44 PM
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
T1 bar bushing mounts
Hey fellas,
Just had a couple quick questions regarding the T1 swaybar bushings. I just picked up a set of used T1 bars and had to buy new bushings for them. I went with the VBP 27 and 38mm.
The rears have the frame mounts on them. The fronts do not. I assume the stock front frame mounts won't fit anymore (of course I could be wrong on that though), so how do they secure? Or do they just pressure fit against the frame?
Also, there wasn't any grease included (funny, it shows the grease in their online picture), so what's recommended?
Thanks!
Just had a couple quick questions regarding the T1 swaybar bushings. I just picked up a set of used T1 bars and had to buy new bushings for them. I went with the VBP 27 and 38mm.
The rears have the frame mounts on them. The fronts do not. I assume the stock front frame mounts won't fit anymore (of course I could be wrong on that though), so how do they secure? Or do they just pressure fit against the frame?
Also, there wasn't any grease included (funny, it shows the grease in their online picture), so what's recommended?
Thanks!
04-09-2013, 10:05 PM
#5
Racer
Member Since: Dec 2008
Location: Mooresville NC
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I just put a used set on my C5 Z. I also got bushings from VBP. For the rear I used one washer on the top and none on the bottom. It was too loose with both washers on and too tight with no washers on. The fronts needed 3 washers each hole to keep from binding. That bushing is much larger than the stock.
I also used Lithium grease on the inside of the bushing per install instructions.
I'm trying them out at VIR in a few weeks. Let me know how you set your adjustable end links (if you are using GM T1 standard). I had mine screwed all the way down to fit perfectly in the control arm hole. I may play with that adjustment after I try it out. Let us know how you like them.
I also used Lithium grease on the inside of the bushing per install instructions.
I'm trying them out at VIR in a few weeks. Let me know how you set your adjustable end links (if you are using GM T1 standard). I had mine screwed all the way down to fit perfectly in the control arm hole. I may play with that adjustment after I try it out. Let us know how you like them.
04-09-2013, 10:57 PM
#6
Race Director
I just put a used set on my C5 Z. I also got bushings from VBP. For the rear I used one washer on the top and none on the bottom. It was too loose with both washers on and too tight with no washers on. The fronts needed 3 washers each hole to keep from binding. That bushing is much larger than the stock.
I also used Lithium grease on the inside of the bushing per install instructions.
I'm trying them out at VIR in a few weeks. Let me know how you set your adjustable end links (if you are using GM T1 standard). I had mine screwed all the way down to fit perfectly in the control arm hole. I may play with that adjustment after I try it out. Let us know how you like them.
I also used Lithium grease on the inside of the bushing per install instructions.
I'm trying them out at VIR in a few weeks. Let me know how you set your adjustable end links (if you are using GM T1 standard). I had mine screwed all the way down to fit perfectly in the control arm hole. I may play with that adjustment after I try it out. Let us know how you like them.
Although the links do effectively change the length of the bar which makes the whole assembly into a softer/harder bar, that difference is minor compared to just the stiffness of the bar.
Set one link so the whole bar clears everything (suspension loaded) then set the other so the bolt slides in with no bind.
Many guys use a solid link on one side and an adjustable on the other.
