bingo1105

I'm taking my car for a track alignment next week and am wondering what settings I should be shooting for. I run my car at Texas World Speedway and track veterans seem to be running somewhere between 2 and 3 degrees of negative camber on their front tires. I haven't switched over to an R compound... I'm running Bridgestone RE-11's and intend to stick with these tires for the foreseeable future...

I don't give a damn about tire wear on the street, so that would seem to put me somewhere between the 'Performance Street - Track Use with Race Tires' and 'Dedicated Track Car - DOT Tires, poly bushings' specs as published by Pfadt. Here's my dilemma... the Performance Street settings seem to be conservative, but the more aggressive settings seem to be pretty aggressive for a street tire.

Which should I go with? My gut tells me that the more aggressive settings are the way to go since the car sees very little street action... but would you agree?

Thanks in advance for your replies...

taken19

Start here, tried and true numbers. Adjust as necessary. The aggressive settings for street tires are probably too much. I'd stay at 2 or less up front on the RE-11's. I ran around -1.8 when I was on PS2's and that seemed to work well.

http://www.pfadtracing.com/blog/wp-c...-alignment.pdf

MongoZ06

I agree with using the Pfadt recommendations as a starting point but keep in mind that you may need to makes some further adjustments to maximize grip.

Personally I would start on the more aggressive side and take away camber as necessary.

A racer advised me that when runs on a track to test alignment settings he paints a lines across the the contact patch of each tire extending slightly onto the sidewalk and does a few solid laps. When back in the pits he sees where the paint has come off and where some is still left, if there is paint still on the outside area of the contact patch reduce camber a bit, if you see paint missing from the sidewall check your air pressure and if that looks right you could need a little more camber.

SunnydayDILYSI

Below is a quote from the "C5 Track Car \ HPDE Conversion" sticky. However, with stock suspension the best I was able to achieve was -1.5 Camber with 7.5 Caster in the front (the adjusters were maxed out at that point - my tires were also very close to rubbing the wheel wells in the front during a turn). No problem getting to the -1.0 Camber in the back.

For the newbie dual purpose street / track HPDE car with NON slicks a good place to start (rubber bushings and street tires):
======> Camber, Caster, Toe
Front:==> -1.6, 8.0, 0 Height at Mid Fender: 27 3/8
Rear: ==> -1.0, N/A, -1/8" Height at Mid Fender: 27 7/8

More Aggressive (Poly Bushings & R-Comps) - Track Car as much or more than street
======> Camber, Caster, Toe
Front:==> -1.9 (left) & -1.8 (right), 7.5, 0 Height at Mid Fender: 27 (FYI this will scrape your Cats on steep driveways = be careful)
Rear: ==> -1.1 (left) & -1.0 (right), N/A, -1/16" Height at Mid Fender: 27 1/2 - 27 3/4 (Differences occur when you drop weight in front)
* asymmetric camber is because most tracks are run clockwise and this accounts for the increased loading on the left side a bit more for more even L v R tire wear and easier rotating and flipping of tires.

bingo1105

Thank you all for the replies. Alignment happens on Wednesday... car already has a 'performance street' alignment per Pfadt's recommended settings. I'll post results and driving impressions once everything is done...

Ludedude

I'm running the following for the track. Currently on street tires:
F: -1.8 camber, 0 toe, 7.5 caster
R: -1.5 camber, 1/16" total toe in

All stock suspension, bushings etc. 2008 C6Z

bingo1105

Here's the end result:

F: -1.8 camber, 0 toe, 7.5 caster
R: -1.1 camber, 1/8" total toe in

The car feels really, really good. I wish I'd have done this ages ago...