DarthStimpy

what is the difference between the SKF bearing that Napa sells for 280 / SKF part number BR 930198 and the 400 dollar units and I see for sale on the Corvette specific sites?

naschmitz

I think they are different designs, Mark.

http://www.zip-corvette.com/_Resourc...b_Bearings.pdf

CHJ In Virginia

The bearing offered at Autozone is an OEM replacement unit built to the same specs. The $400 bearing is a substantially upgraded unit for racing applications, better bearings, thicker flanges, etc. Stick with the OEM unit for street use. The race hubs are well worth the $ if you track the car, if you have ever seen a failure you would agree.

RedLS1GTO

OEM vs. SKF

phipp85

How do you know if a wheel bearing is shot?
What symptoms would you see during normal street driving?

SoDiezl350

In my C5 the wheel bearings rumbled. What this equaled to was just a lot of road noise. I didn't really even realize how bad they had gotten until I replaced them. The braking feel improved the most, followed by the quiet ride.

SouthernSon

Not sure the street driving would work the bearing enough to affect the braking but on the track the brake pedal gets a little play in it (soft pedal) because of pad knock back from the rotor deflection. You might remove the rotor and inspect the bearing closely for minute crack around the barrel and flange junction. If the bearing is cold it is difficult to detect movement while pushing and pulling on wheel at 12 and 6 position even on a bad bearing.

phipp85

Rumbling is a very good description of what I hear. Seems to be from the rear but pinpointing the sound is tricky. Thanks for the info.

phipp85

Good to know. I will drive it to work one day and inspect the area as soon as I get home. Thanks.

yakisoba

If you get the bearing hot (which it will be if it's trying to fail) and wiggle the wheel on the 6-12 axis and the 3-9 o'clock axis, you should feel the play.

Mine failed when I was at low speed. Front right. The car simply would not turn anymore. Lucky I had a place to go off track. The failure was complete. The hub broke at the flange, leaving the brake as the only thing holding the wheel on the car.

trapp

If you get "extra" brake pedal travel after taking sharp left then right.....you have bad wheel bearings.



http://forums.corvetteforum.com/auto...my-brakes.html

naschmitz

The difference in flange thickness ought to convince you to buy the race ones, Mark!

Bill Dearborn

All of the ones mentioned above. However when I had one go bad last year the only indication I would have is a loud metallic clink when pulling to a stop. People outside the car could hear it very distinctly. I had somebody drive the car back and forth in the garage and apply the brake and it would clink every time the car went forward and stopped. Usual tests for wheel bearing didn't really show any issue. At one of the events I was at they had a mechanic providing support for participants. He took the car two days in a row and couldn't find anything, of course as soon as he drove off with the car it stopped making the noise. That weekend I pulled the front wheels and turned the hubs on each side, the bad side had slightly more resistance to turning than the good side. Replaced bearing and clinking went away.

Bill

froggy47

What is roughly the price difference? $400 vs ??

DarthStimpy

$218..

I've broken the flange on two of the OEM ones.


the 2 fronts and the driver rear is now the SKF race bearings. the pass rear is a new OEM.

I bought a couple of these to have in case of on track failure.

froggy47

Gee that's a pretty stiff premium to me for an upgrade wheel bearing.

ErnieN85

You won't think so ifit comes apart at speed next to the wall

DarthStimpy

yep, i've had the flange separate from the rest of the hub at speed. the only thing that keeps the wheel on at that point is the caliper.

Gordy M

You can test the bearing the old fashioned way, jack up the front wheel, take the jack handle an place it under the wheel and lift up, this will test for any play in the bearing under load--weight of the car. If the bearing is good, the wheel will lift on the spring, if the bearing is starting to wear, you will feel a slight movement before you move the spring.

Van Steel

Simple check is lift each corner with jack and in & out rock the wheel/tire package...any play you can feel with your hand is generally the first indication of failure... sound....low roaring sound (early) and pedal sinking...

SKF OE bearing verses the racing... flange thickness (as shown in earlier post) also the load bearing race has more bearings (better load distrbution) tighter bearing preload and a higher temp grease....

Dan Kellermeyer put over 5000 racing miles and were still good when sent back to evaluation..

The $400. per bearing if you track the car or you are a "spirited" is a good investment when comparing bearings and their features...

Let me know if we can help..
Cheers
Paul
Van Steel