clubracer6

Any suggestions on good bang for the buck wheels for a C5?

fatbillybob

forgestar f14 ronson ran them iirc 1200-1400/set and chuck is sponsored by them. contact chuck for best price.

eric vaughn machine can widen and narrow C5Z06 rears. I think Oli did a set or the guy said he will do them when Oli did his caddy wheels. iirc 100/wheel?

949 racing makes the only 17" wheel to clear the hardbar/AP BBK but not sure if it clears other kits.

CCW c10 I think and is the best wheel of the staring to get expensive crowd

Note: Limit is 18x10 front 18x11 rear. In past stodgy CRB say no to running rears on front even if tires are same. IE no additional advantage. I just sent request to CRB to let T2 C5 run C5Z06 rear wheels on front if C5z06 rear wheels are run at the back, basically asking to allow giving 1/2" more wheel on front and taking away 1/2" wheel on the rear while keeping all tire sizes the same as the spec-line for no advantage other than a cheap unlimited supply of wheels to help us reduce running costs. If you are interested in this please also ask the CRB for this allowance or reference your support for my letter to the CRB #10094

Then there are the expensive guys...

RX7 KLR

Looks like you got your wish. Effective 3-1-13 you will be able to use C5Z rears up front:
http://www.scca.com/assets/TBprelim13-03.pdf
9. #10094 (carl fung) Allow rear wheels on front to reduce costs
In T2, Chevrolet Corvette C‐5 Incl. Fxd Cpe (98‐04) Z06 (hardtop) (01‐04), add to the wheel size column
as follows:
Stock Z06 wheels allowed.

Also noteworthy for you guys that are worried about getting outrun by a stick axle car, the Mustangs just got choked down more:
In T2, Ford Mustang GT 5.0L (10‐12), change the notes as follows:
"Flat plate restrictor 70 65 mm."
In T2, Ford Mustang Boss 302 (2012), change the notes as follows:
"Flat plate restrictor 65 60 mm."

theseal

I have a set of really nice and light fikses for sale in that size. Pm me or check parts boards

Crankedupforit

Team Dynamics for about $1300 a set. Forged and made in the UK.

dfinke23

Those are what some call "rotary forged" which means they are spun, not traditionally forged. Forgestar are actually a spun casting, not a true forging.
It's just like anything else, you get what you pay for.

Crankedupforit

Completely agree. Cast wheels are a nonstarter and a billet wheel is some serious money Since Alex mentioned the bang for the buck factor, the TDs are a good value strength and weight wise. That being said, I did have an issue with a TD wheel once concerning some porousness which caused some leak down issues, but I heard that was fairly rare.

Olitho

Hey you guys, I would not be too quick to condemn the rotary forged. Of all the wheels I have raced on in the past five years the best ones based on durability would have to be my only set of rotary forged wheels from 949.

I have bent every other type of wheel I have raced on and used for track days. I have bent CCWs, OEM rear C5 Z06s, OEM C5 ZR1 11"ers, but not the 949 Racing rotary forged set. I bend wheels from aggressively running up on curbs at BRP, getting hit or dropping wheels into holes at the track edge.

The 949 wheels, while on par weight wise seem to be my strongest wheels. I use them every race and every track day. They have been used more than any of my others partly because the others were often out of round.

In SoCal we just did a group purchase of 40 Forgestars. We get them in about two weeks so it is too early to tell how they will hold up. I bet they will be fine.

Crankedupforit

Most of the experience like yours confirm spin forged are pretty strong. Spin forged are even used on rally car set ups. Also I remember reading somewhere that even some of the high end billet wheels are only billet in the center section and the rims are rotary forged.

fatbillybob

Interestingly, the guys I have raced with seem to have more problems with the high end 3 piece wheels than people with the cheap wheels. Those problems seem to be centers cracking, wheels leaking, wheels going out of round. The cheap wheels are so cheap just think of them as disposible. What I have personally noticed is that the spun cast/spun forged cheap wheels hold their concentricity better than the high dollar 3 piece wheels. Why? And how would I notice this? Well I balance and mount my own tires. Sometimes I notice a wheel needs more lead to balance it. I found this is not because of tire imbalance but wheel out of roundness. I check it with a dial gauge and look at the wheel runout. The more runout in the wheel the more you have to compensate for this with wheel tire balance. The spun wheels don't have this problem because maybe they crack or break and don't bent so you throw them away before you have this imbalance problem. I don't know...just my observation. So next time your tire mounter puts 2 oz of lead on one side of your wheel check the runout because that wheel is "done." Lots of lead to balance should be a warning sign that your wheel has become unsafe even if it has not failed yet or show signs of cracking.