WTB roadracing camshaft
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Member Since: Dec 2009
Location: Pas de Calais
Posts: 357
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
WTB roadracing camshaft
I Am looking to buy a "soft" camshaft for road racing. I am thinking GMPP ASA or Hotcam. Easy on the valve train that I want to keep stock.
I need like new quality. Thanks.
I need like new quality. Thanks.
#2
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Sep 2002
Location: Oakville Ontario,Canada
Posts: 5,187
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes
on
3 Posts
In case you can't find a lot of those out there, I'll suggest this cam as well. Its been an amazing cam for the track, I've now used it it 2 of my road race motors. Lift is still easy on the springs and this cam is easy to find.
Comp Cams RR
232/234 595/598 112
TSP also carries the same cam under their name
TSP Torque 2
232/234 595/598 112
There is a forum member named "TriplBlk" and he had a ASA cam for sale a few months ago. Search him name and shoot him a PM
Comp Cams RR
232/234 595/598 112
TSP also carries the same cam under their name
TSP Torque 2
232/234 595/598 112
There is a forum member named "TriplBlk" and he had a ASA cam for sale a few months ago. Search him name and shoot him a PM
#4
Race Director
The GM Hot cam is low lift, but big duration, due to rules limitations. It makes good power, but you really need tuned headers and a no restriction exhaust or you will be inhaling more exhaust fumes than fresh air during overlap!
#5
Former Vendor
Member Since: Aug 2005
Location: Lewisville TX
Posts: 16,898
Received 406 Likes
on
300 Posts
St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
Just call us and ask for a specific RR version!
#6
Racer
Thread Starter
Member Since: Dec 2009
Location: Pas de Calais
Posts: 357
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Do you think it can be a problem?
#7
Racer
Thread Starter
Member Since: Dec 2009
Location: Pas de Calais
Posts: 357
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Do you propose camshafts that allow to keep stock valve train?
#10
Former Vendor
Member Since: Aug 2005
Location: Lewisville TX
Posts: 16,898
Received 406 Likes
on
300 Posts
St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
Generally in our cam kits, they include:
-Camshaft
-Comp 921 dual springs
-Comp spring seats
-Comp Ti retainers
-Comp valve seals
-Comp pushrods
-C5R single roller timing chain
-Cam gear (depending on year)
-Chain damper (depending on year)
-NGK plugs
-GM crank bolt
-Camshaft
-Comp 921 dual springs
-Comp spring seats
-Comp Ti retainers
-Comp valve seals
-Comp pushrods
-C5R single roller timing chain
-Cam gear (depending on year)
-Chain damper (depending on year)
-NGK plugs
-GM crank bolt
#12
This past April I did a heads/cam/intake on an 02 C5Z. My primary goal was not to wiggle the pin in the grenade under the hood too much. I put in a very mild comp cams .571/.573 cam (54-428-11), GMPP Heads, and had my LS6 intake modified to accept a 90 mm TB. The ramp on the cam is totally ***** (as in not aggressive). Rockers are CHE, redline bumped to 7K. I changed injectors as well, 42 lb I believe.
When I had the dyno tune done, I was only interested in getting the fuel/air dead on through out the rpm range...the HP/TQ numbers I really did not care about other than wondering how well money was spent.
The numbers shocked the hell out of me. 447 rwhp and torque that languished around the 400 ft-lb mark for a wide rpm range. I don't recall the exact range, but I think it was similar to 3,500 to 6,000. Dyno was a Mustang if that matters...that was the only time my car was on a dyno so I have nothing else to compare it to
With the bug heads and intake, the car idles has a mildly crappy idle and is prone to stalling. On the track it is an animal. A well piloted CZ6 will still pull me a touch coming out of the corners, but by mid straight I am running them down; no replacement for displacement I guess.
When I had the dyno tune done, I was only interested in getting the fuel/air dead on through out the rpm range...the HP/TQ numbers I really did not care about other than wondering how well money was spent.
The numbers shocked the hell out of me. 447 rwhp and torque that languished around the 400 ft-lb mark for a wide rpm range. I don't recall the exact range, but I think it was similar to 3,500 to 6,000. Dyno was a Mustang if that matters...that was the only time my car was on a dyno so I have nothing else to compare it to
With the bug heads and intake, the car idles has a mildly crappy idle and is prone to stalling. On the track it is an animal. A well piloted CZ6 will still pull me a touch coming out of the corners, but by mid straight I am running them down; no replacement for displacement I guess.
#16
I did the CHE upgrade to new stock rocker arms just because I wanted to get rid of the needle bearings; no idea if it was worth it but I know I can't send a needle through the engine since there aren't any. The rockers are really stable.
While I was in there I did normal replacements like lifters and lifter trays. I also replaced the push rods with the suggested 7.40's. Valve springs are comp cams 918...nice, but nothing with unnecessarily high seat pressures.
I used forum vendor Parts Taxi for all the GM stuff...awesome service.
While I was in there I did normal replacements like lifters and lifter trays. I also replaced the push rods with the suggested 7.40's. Valve springs are comp cams 918...nice, but nothing with unnecessarily high seat pressures.
I used forum vendor Parts Taxi for all the GM stuff...awesome service.
#18
The CHE upgrade was done through West Coast Racing Cylinder Heads (proheads.com). They replace the needle bearings with Bronze Alloy bushings. It tightens up the rocker assembly like the comp cams trunnion upgrade does, but does so without any needle bearings.