Rebuilding AP 6 pot calipers ?
12-06-2012, 06:24 PM
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Rebuilding AP 6 pot calipers ?
Looking for info on rebuilding these. I have done many base C5 & C6
calipers , but never a 6 pot. Thanks for any help.
calipers , but never a 6 pot. Thanks for any help.
12-06-2012, 06:59 PM
#2
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Oct 1999
Location: Charlotte, NC (formerly Endicott, NY)
Posts: 40,084
Received 8,926 Likes
on
5,332 Posts
I haven't done AP calipers but I have done Wilwood and the Z06 6 pot PBR calipers. Pretty much the same as the standard two piston calipers. Use air pressure to pop the pistons out. Since you have pistons on both sides of the caliper choose a piece of wood that will fit between them and will let them come almost all the way out. If one of the pistons comes out of the bore before the others are extended you can't get them out and you have to put it back in. I think I used a 3/4 inch thick piece of scrap lumber. Just make sure you keep your fingers and important body parts clear of the pistons when you apply the air pressure. Get some Centric Brake Assembly lube so you can reinsert the pistons with their new seals. Brake fluid isn't a good lube. I purchased the lube from the Zeckhuasen Racing web site. You may be able to get the lube from who ever you get the seals from. Local Auto Parts store counter guys will just get a funny look if you ask them. Most are far to young to remember when everybody rebuilt brake cylinders/calipers and assembly lube was a common item on auto parts store shelves. The lube will make reassembly a breeze and prevent ripping of the new seals. Don't use the assembly lube that is used to lubricate caliper pins and slide rails, it is the wrong kind of lube.
Bill
Bill
12-06-2012, 09:24 PM
#4
Former Vendor
I'll go one step farther than Bill's suggestion: before you remove the calipers from the car cut some wooden strips from paint sticks that mirror the thickness of you brake pad backing plate plus a tad more. Install these as you would pads into the caliper and push on the brake pedal. Use the fluid to push the pads out to the sticks and that should get them out far enough to wiggle out after you have removed them.
As for 'needs' I'd personally look for some caps and plugs if you're fortunate enough to be running -3AN fittings- one cap and one plug per side required. If banjo bolts get a bolt and nut to fit your banjo and simply clamp the banjo and crush washers with it.
Now remove the caliper.
As for 'needs' I'd personally look for some caps and plugs if you're fortunate enough to be running -3AN fittings- one cap and one plug per side required. If banjo bolts get a bolt and nut to fit your banjo and simply clamp the banjo and crush washers with it.
Now remove the caliper.
12-07-2012, 04:47 PM
#5
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Oct 1999
Location: Charlotte, NC (formerly Endicott, NY)
Posts: 40,084
Received 8,926 Likes
on
5,332 Posts
I'll go one step farther than Bill's suggestion: before you remove the calipers from the car cut some wooden strips from paint sticks that mirror the thickness of you brake pad backing plate plus a tad more. Install these as you would pads into the caliper and push on the brake pedal. Use the fluid to push the pads out to the sticks and that should get them out far enough to wiggle out after you have removed them.
As for 'needs' I'd personally look for some caps and plugs if you're fortunate enough to be running -3AN fittings- one cap and one plug per side required. If banjo bolts get a bolt and nut to fit your banjo and simply clamp the banjo and crush washers with it.
Now remove the caliper.
As for 'needs' I'd personally look for some caps and plugs if you're fortunate enough to be running -3AN fittings- one cap and one plug per side required. If banjo bolts get a bolt and nut to fit your banjo and simply clamp the banjo and crush washers with it.
Now remove the caliper.
Bill