Pfadt poly bush movement - video
11-07-2012, 11:56 AM
#1
Race Director
Thread Starter
Pfadt poly bush movement - video
This look ok or are these shot?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MDgyjUxvWfo&feature=plcp
Thanks
Been in a couple of years & have been recently regreased (probably didn't need it, just PM)
Thanks, your opinion, especially if you are using poly, is appreciated.
Or if Pfadt sees this vid, pls comment.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MDgyjUxvWfo&feature=plcp
Thanks
Been in a couple of years & have been recently regreased (probably didn't need it, just PM)
Thanks, your opinion, especially if you are using poly, is appreciated.
Or if Pfadt sees this vid, pls comment.
11-07-2012, 12:49 PM
#2
Well, you've got a couple things going on here.
1. If you very recently disassembled and regreased the control arm poly and are just now noticing a small gap you may want to make sure that during the reinstallation that you supported the back side of the bushing while sliding the pin back into the assembly. We have a photo on page 2 of our instructions that shows what you're trying to avoid during setup of our poly kits. As you're sliding the pin into the 2 halves of the poly inserts it can push the back side bushing out away from the arm a little bit, and what you want to do to avoid this is support the back side with a piece of pipe or tube that's slightly larger than the pin it's self.
Take a look at our instructions for a good idea what we're talking about: Pfadt Race Engineering Poly Bushing Installation Guide
2. The other thing to keep in mind is that polyurethane is not a completely solid mounting solution. They are designed to significantly reduce the amount of deflection seen compared to the factory rubber which increases suspension precision and steering feel. Your control arm may walk around a small amount on the face of the bushing during Autox/Road Race use. As long as the bushings have been installed properly the very small gap you're seeing is perfectly acceptable given the amount of time they have been installed on the car.
If you want a completely solid mounting solution our Spherical bearings are exactly what you're looking for, however they aren't a great solution for cars that see a lot of street time.
Long story short. Double check the install, but otherwise everything looks fine.
1. If you very recently disassembled and regreased the control arm poly and are just now noticing a small gap you may want to make sure that during the reinstallation that you supported the back side of the bushing while sliding the pin back into the assembly. We have a photo on page 2 of our instructions that shows what you're trying to avoid during setup of our poly kits. As you're sliding the pin into the 2 halves of the poly inserts it can push the back side bushing out away from the arm a little bit, and what you want to do to avoid this is support the back side with a piece of pipe or tube that's slightly larger than the pin it's self.
Take a look at our instructions for a good idea what we're talking about: Pfadt Race Engineering Poly Bushing Installation Guide
2. The other thing to keep in mind is that polyurethane is not a completely solid mounting solution. They are designed to significantly reduce the amount of deflection seen compared to the factory rubber which increases suspension precision and steering feel. Your control arm may walk around a small amount on the face of the bushing during Autox/Road Race use. As long as the bushings have been installed properly the very small gap you're seeing is perfectly acceptable given the amount of time they have been installed on the car.
If you want a completely solid mounting solution our Spherical bearings are exactly what you're looking for, however they aren't a great solution for cars that see a lot of street time.
Long story short. Double check the install, but otherwise everything looks fine.
11-08-2012, 12:55 PM
#6
Race Director
Thread Starter
Well, you've got a couple things going on here.
1. If you very recently disassembled and regreased the control arm poly and are just now noticing a small gap you may want to make sure that during the reinstallation that you supported the back side of the bushing while sliding the pin back into the assembly. We have a photo on page 2 of our instructions that shows what you're trying to avoid during setup of our poly kits. As you're sliding the pin into the 2 halves of the poly inserts it can push the back side bushing out away from the arm a little bit, and what you want to do to avoid this is support the back side with a piece of pipe or tube that's slightly larger than the pin it's self.
Take a look at our instructions for a good idea what we're talking about: Pfadt Race Engineering Poly Bushing Installation Guide
2. The other thing to keep in mind is that polyurethane is not a completely solid mounting solution. They are designed to significantly reduce the amount of deflection seen compared to the factory rubber which increases suspension precision and steering feel. Your control arm may walk around a small amount on the face of the bushing during Autox/Road Race use. As long as the bushings have been installed properly the very small gap you're seeing is perfectly acceptable given the amount of time they have been installed on the car.
If you want a completely solid mounting solution our Spherical bearings are exactly what you're looking for, however they aren't a great solution for cars that see a lot of street time.
Long story short. Double check the install, but otherwise everything looks fine.
1. If you very recently disassembled and regreased the control arm poly and are just now noticing a small gap you may want to make sure that during the reinstallation that you supported the back side of the bushing while sliding the pin back into the assembly. We have a photo on page 2 of our instructions that shows what you're trying to avoid during setup of our poly kits. As you're sliding the pin into the 2 halves of the poly inserts it can push the back side bushing out away from the arm a little bit, and what you want to do to avoid this is support the back side with a piece of pipe or tube that's slightly larger than the pin it's self.
Take a look at our instructions for a good idea what we're talking about: Pfadt Race Engineering Poly Bushing Installation Guide
2. The other thing to keep in mind is that polyurethane is not a completely solid mounting solution. They are designed to significantly reduce the amount of deflection seen compared to the factory rubber which increases suspension precision and steering feel. Your control arm may walk around a small amount on the face of the bushing during Autox/Road Race use. As long as the bushings have been installed properly the very small gap you're seeing is perfectly acceptable given the amount of time they have been installed on the car.
If you want a completely solid mounting solution our Spherical bearings are exactly what you're looking for, however they aren't a great solution for cars that see a lot of street time.
Long story short. Double check the install, but otherwise everything looks fine.
There was no gap until I competed with the car, very hard threshold braking is involved.
I guess it's ok & within normal tolerance if you do.
It would actually be nice to just do spherical on the UCA's as they seem to be the ones that want to move the most, every other poly bushing looks like new.
There was some small wear on the UCA poly bushings.
I don't suppose I can get a set of just the UCA part #'s?
For cars run hard, it may be that they are a (sort of) wear item.
BTW since the "upgrade" to regular snap rings, I have not pop'd one.
Last edited by froggy47; 11-08-2012 at 01:29 PM.
11-08-2012, 01:15 PM
#7
I think the Pfadt design is awesome and a step above the GM design. In SCCA T1 racing we are allowed delrin bushings. To make my life easier I bought the front upper dogbone poly Pfadt parts and deleted the poly and custom made my own delrin bushings on a lathe. Pfadt parts are very well designed and I have had absolutely perfect function of their parts and in T1 we run these cars very very hard.
Froggy I have some of the poly bushings for the dogbones that I never used in new condition. If you want them PM me your address and I'll send them to you for spares.
Froggy I have some of the poly bushings for the dogbones that I never used in new condition. If you want them PM me your address and I'll send them to you for spares.
11-08-2012, 01:32 PM
#8
Race Director
Thread Starter
I think the Pfadt design is awesome and a step above the GM design. In SCCA T1 racing we are allowed delrin bushings. To make my life easier I bought the front upper dogbone poly Pfadt parts and deleted the poly and custom made my own delrin bushings on a lathe. Pfadt parts are very well designed and I have had absolutely perfect function of their parts and in T1 we run these cars very very hard.
Froggy I have some of the poly bushings for the dogbones that I never used in new condition. If you want them PM me your address and I'll send them to you for spares.
Froggy I have some of the poly bushings for the dogbones that I never used in new condition. If you want them PM me your address and I'll send them to you for spares.
That's actually a pretty good idea for Pfadt, to substitute Delrin in that one location only. Never mind I just remembered that the delrin needs to be hand fit more/less.
Does your solution still use the Pfadt snap ring?
Last edited by froggy47; 11-08-2012 at 03:32 PM.
11-08-2012, 01:52 PM
#9
Terminal Vette Addict
i had a ton of problems installing the polys from Pfadt. The retainer clips popped on my first event with them. They were 100% put together properly. Pfadt after several attempts to make the setup work, did in fact allow me to mail them my arms and they installed and fixed it, they stood by the product and made it right.
I suggest to any and all people who do a poly set up that you first drill zerk fittings and make sure you can grease the polys easily. Taking them on and off to regrease them is a horrendous ordeal, and putting zerks in made it a snap to regrease everything prior to all my events.
I suggest to any and all people who do a poly set up that you first drill zerk fittings and make sure you can grease the polys easily. Taking them on and off to regrease them is a horrendous ordeal, and putting zerks in made it a snap to regrease everything prior to all my events.