2 GTOs

First time towing. I will be using a Trailex open trailer 8045 to haul a C5Z.

I am thinking of getting the following

5 8ft straps (an extra just in case)
http://www.truckntow.com/p-9873-auto...nap-hooks.aspx

5 T hooks (an extra just in case)
http://www.truckntow.com/p-11282-t-hook.aspx

A set of axel straps should I find myself in a situation where I can use the t hooks
http://www.truckntow.com/p-11611-vul...w-d-rings.aspx

The 72 inch version of this to be used to winch the car on to the trailer
http://www.truckntow.com/p-19418-vul...-clusters.aspx

A set of wheel chocks

A tongue scale

Have I covered the bases and are these quality items?

If you need to unload on an incline, is it better that the rear of the trailer be lower than the front?

GettReal

You have all the basics plus more. I don't think you will ever use the axel straps.. I bought some thinking the same way you did , 5 years later, never used them once.

The ONLY other thing I would add.. .is get yourself 2 pieces of 2x12x6' from Home depot... Because when you load your trailer you will most likely need wood at the base of the ramps or on the ramps...

First time I loaded my car, I cut 2 pieces of 2x12x6' into the following;

2 - 36" pieces
2 - 24" pieces
2 - 12" pieces

as I started to load my car I saw where I needed what pieces and it went up smoothly.

mdaniel

You have the bases covered in terms of straps and hooks. I have a set of axle straps too just in case or if I have to tow someone else home from the track (it has happened).
One item to consider, and your trailer may or may not need it, is one jack stand placed behind the trailer when loading/unloading which prevents the bounce when the car transitions from the ramps to the trailer bed. My trailer has little arms that swing down on each side which are supposed to accomplish the same thing, but I've found a single jack stand in the middle works better. Something to consider.

Generally I recheck my straps 10 minutes into a trip and then once every couple hours.

2 GTOs

Good idea. I don't think my trailer has a support. Not a bad idea to carry a jack stand anyway.

Supercharged111

I wouldn't sweat the tongue scale, you'll know as soon as you start down the road if the car's not loaded properly. Once you get it right, you'll just remember where to put it and never use the scale again. If you start towing different things, you'll know how your truck is supposed to look when loaded. On mine, the rear has very little give but the front lifts more and more with added tongue weight. If the tongue is too heavy, the whole rig will porpoise when you hit bumps and the front will be noticeably light. Too little tongue weight and the trailer will jerk the truck all over the road. Anything in between and you'll hardly notice the trailer back there unless you're towing with a gutless Ford.

PaConehead

So you pulled the trigger!!! Now order the stickies!!! I originally had a set of axle straps, but then switched to the to the t-hooks - I've never used the the axle straps since, although I still carry them "just in case". I also agree that you won't get much use out of the scale once you find the right position for the car on the trailer. I put a piece of tape on the side rail at the center of the rear wheel to check the position of the car, and also use a mounted stop block as a front wheel chock on the deck of the trailer.

Load the car. take a test drive to used to the turning radius and handling - maybe practice backing. You'll be find. Good luck.

Mike

John Shiels

put your car on the trailer and make sure 8' is enough frt & rear.

AU N EGL

Two spare trailer wheels.

a small ramp to drive one trailer wheel up onto so you can change the other.

Cordless impact wrench and socket for the trailer wheel nuts.

2 GTOs

Can you give a link to the ramp or describe it a little more. Does someone sell one for this purpose?

Painrace

Nothing like having a tire go down on I-75 in down town Detroit!

Jim

PaConehead

Several variations on the market, but similiar to this:

http://tweetys.com/trailer-aid.aspx

MySR71

I'd recommend measuring to see what you need. If you are looking for custom length straps, I've had good luck with these guys:

http://www.cargoequipmentcorp.com/category-s/324.htm

Click on the custom strap picture and they have an online configuration program that will let you select different lengths, what end types you want, strap material, etc. And they give you the price!! I had a few questions so called them. They were very helpful.

PS Don't forget a good brake controller.

rfn026

You will blow a tire if you tow long enough. Get 2 spare tires.

Now load the trailer and practice changing a tire in your driveway. Better to learn how to do in there than on I-75.

Richard Newton
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c4cruiser

Setting tongue weight can be done on the cheap by using a bathroom scale. This website shows how it can be done with a scale, a 2x4, and some 1" diameter pipe. Scroll down to "Bathroon Scale" and look at Figure B.

Tongue weight should be 10-15% of the total weight of the trailer. That's the trailer, the car, and any equipment that will be on the trailer when towing. Don't forget that the tongue weight has to be added as part of the cargo weight on the tow vehicle when you are computing the total gross weight.

I have bought straps from Truck 'n Tow and they have some good equipment. The Pro series as shown in the link is IMHO overkill; their standard 10K lb (yellow) straps will work fine. Also check out Mac's Custom Tie Downs They have complete kits. Summit Racing has some good 10K twisted snap-hook straps.

Just make sure the straps you buy are rated at 10K lbs which is a 3300 lb Working Load Limit (WLL). Straps are rated at a gross rating and a safe WLL which is 1/3 the gross rate. Also, if you go with T-hooks, make sure that the straps you use don't wind up with a twist in them. Even a 1/4 turn twist can reduce the load rating.

I made my own wheel chocks from a 4x6 post I had left over from a fence project. They are 10" long and I cut a 45 degree slice from the opposite edges on the long side. I added an eyelet and a 3' section of rope so I could pull them out from behind the trailer tires. Sometimes the trailer will wedge the chocks in very tightly; having them stick out allows me to either kick them or use a hammer to free them.

JerryTX

If you are towing with a half ton pickup, I'd buy a weight distribution hitch.

You may want to consider buying Rhino Ramps for the rear tires of your truck: drive the truck up on the ramps and the tail of the trailer drops drastically, I've done it for 10+ years. I needed to do this for my M3, its lower than the Vette.

moespeeds

I think everyone is forgetting the most important detail: Now you can rip the interior out, it's not a street car anymore... If you need any help give me a call. Looks like you have everything covered though.

The weight distribution hitch is nice to have, really makes a difference.

waddisme

Definitely a must. I feel like as long as you have this, you will never have a flat.

Also, 2 of these come in handy :



They are like $6 ea at harborfreight.

I have an extra set of axle straps, which have been used by other people more than me. Also, I had a receiver welded onto the front of my trailer for my winch. It locks in with a hitch pin so I can keep my winch out of the elements during storage. I got 25ft jumper cables to power the winch. If you have tow hooks, I am not sure you would need the bridles unless tow hooks were not centered.

Don't forget to add trailer tire pressure checks to your maintenance schedule. Tires need much more air than normal truck tires . Good luck with all this.

AU N EGL

I took a 6"x6" by 2' and cut 45* angle off one side.

RedLS1GTO

I can load either the C4 or the C5 on my trailer like this. I only need to get the truck up about 4" in the back to load without any scraping. No need for massive ramp extensions out the back of the trailer.

AU N EGL

a few Mac-10s wont even help you there

that is when you just keep driving . .. . . . . . .