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StopTech installation question

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Old 09-19-2012, 10:07 PM
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Charley Hoyt
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Default StopTech installation question

I am considering purchasing a set of Stoptech ST-60 /40 and I have a few installation questions. The instructions recommend trimming the lower ball joint (in some cases). Did you need to do that? Also, will these brakes fit with stock C6 Z06 wheels without shims?

Thanks for the help,
Charley
Old 09-19-2012, 10:17 PM
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jamsvet
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Had no problems with mine. Just make sure you insulate the ball joints. They get HOT. I run stock wheels with no problems. My race tires also are on stock wheels with no shims or problems.
Old 09-19-2012, 10:30 PM
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crease-guard
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Are you talking about the actual ball joint or the outer edge of the lower control arm where the ball joint sits?

I have a Brembo BBK and I had to grind down the outer edge of the lower control arm so the rotors wouldn't rub against the control arm. Didn't have to shave off much, you can use a grinding wheel or sanding disc, pretty easy to do.

Jay
Old 09-19-2012, 10:43 PM
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Charley Hoyt
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Originally Posted by crease-guard
Are you talking about the actual ball joint or the outer edge of the lower control arm where the ball joint sits?

I have a Brembo BBK and I had to grind down the outer edge of the lower control arm so the rotors wouldn't rub against the control arm. Didn't have to shave off much, you can use a grinding wheel or sanding disc, pretty easy to do.

Jay
Yes. The instructions talk about trimming the outer edge of the lower control arm around the ball joint.

Thanks, it is good to hear that it is easy to trim.
Charley
Old 09-19-2012, 10:44 PM
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Charley Hoyt
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Originally Posted by jamsvet
Had no problems with mine. Just make sure you insulate the ball joints. They get HOT. I run stock wheels with no problems. My race tires also are on stock wheels with no shims or problems.
How did you insulate the ball joints?

Thanks,
Charley
Old 09-20-2012, 12:03 AM
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1ED1
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You have to trim the control arms. If you do not you will be pulling them back apart.
Old 09-20-2012, 05:08 AM
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crease-guard
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The thing that's the PITA is you have to assemble the wheel and lower the car to put weight on that corner and check for clearance. It will look like it will clear in the air but rub on the ground.

Jay
Old 09-20-2012, 08:28 AM
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JDIllon
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It is not a big deal! Just grind a little aluminum off the end of the lower control arm before you assemble them. When you put the disc on the hub, just look at where it would make contact if it were weighted and grind off in the area. There is plenty of material there. Also they will clear stock wheels. JD
Old 09-20-2012, 12:17 PM
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fatbillybob
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Originally Posted by crease-guard
Are you talking about the actual ball joint or the outer edge of the lower control arm where the ball joint sits?

I have a Brembo BBK and I had to grind down the outer edge of the lower control arm so the rotors wouldn't rub against the control arm. Didn't have to shave off much, you can use a grinding wheel or sanding disc, pretty easy to do.

Jay
It is stoptech SOP. When they designed the scca t1 kit on my c5 they trimmed as suggested with a simple sandpaper flapwheel. Very little was removed and in not a critical place. In fact the area is like a partline in the casting and the sanding even removes stressrisers in the metal there which is not a problem anyway of gm would have done it.
Old 09-20-2012, 02:35 PM
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Charley Hoyt
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Originally Posted by JDIllon
It is not a big deal! Just grind a little aluminum off the end of the lower control arm before you assemble them. When you put the disc on the hub, just look at where it would make contact if it were weighted and grind off in the area. There is plenty of material there. Also they will clear stock wheels. JD
Thanks. It does look easy to do...

Originally Posted by fatbillybob
It is stoptech SOP. When they designed the scca t1 kit on my c5 they trimmed as suggested with a simple sandpaper flapwheel. Very little was removed and in not a critical place. In fact the area is like a partline in the casting and the sanding even removes stressrisers in the metal there which is not a problem anyway of gm would have done it.
Thanks. Does the T1 kit use the ST-60 or 40? Or is it from their Trophy series?

Charley
Old 09-20-2012, 05:01 PM
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jvp
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Originally Posted by crease-guard
The thing that's the PITA is you have to assemble the wheel and lower the car to put weight on that corner and check for clearance. It will look like it will clear in the air but rub on the ground.
Nah. A 1/8" thick piece of cardboard is all you need to measure the gap between the rotor and the lower control arm. What you do have to remember doing is turning lock to lock and checking all the way through. But, the cardboard trick works fine.

jas
Old 09-20-2012, 08:23 PM
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quicksilverc6z
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Stoptech has redesigned the kit, so it is not necessary to grind the outer corner of the lower control anymore. I have experience with both kits, make sure you ask for the updated adapters/hats. The updated kit is great, enjoy the brakes...they work!
Old 09-22-2012, 12:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Charley Hoyt
Thanks. It does look easy to do...



Thanks. Does the T1 kit use the ST-60 or 40? Or is it from their Trophy series?

Charley
trophy series St40 per T1 rules. Extra 6 pot is good when you need to reduce pad taper. Well the T1 kit with st40's you get no taper so don't add the weight or extra parts to rebuild later by adding the 6 pot. 2 years racing still same rotors! On 3rd set of front pads never worn out the rears. The T1 kit is more brake than the car needs. I only bleed brakes as part of my pretech. I don't need to bleed during the the race weekend. I'm just using cheapo valvoline synthetic brake fluid too. With OEM's I cracked the front rotors on the 3rd day and pads were gone in a weekend.

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