HPDE @ MIR soon...my brakes are spongy! help?
05-16-2012, 09:39 AM
#1
HPDE @ MIR soon...my brakes are spongy! help?
My brake pedal slowly goes to the floor when pressed. If I stomp it, it's firm. My search on here indicated that means the brake master cylinder is bad, so I went ahead and ordered one. I have an HPDE at Memphis Int. Raceway on May 25-26 so I need to get this fixed ASAP!
About a month ago, I had my calipers off and painted them. I thought maybe the problem was the seals where the lines hook to the calipers. Or, I might have busted a line - but they are steel braided lines. Or, I might just need a good bleed. Either way, this weekend will be all about the brakes.
Any suggestions on something I'm not considering or something else I should try to do?
On another note, the HPDE at MIR has had a light turnout and they are asking that we invite our friends to come join. Here for more: http://www.musiccitymustangclub.org/ or email me for the pdf's - yow@ericyow.com.
Thanks!!!
About a month ago, I had my calipers off and painted them. I thought maybe the problem was the seals where the lines hook to the calipers. Or, I might have busted a line - but they are steel braided lines. Or, I might just need a good bleed. Either way, this weekend will be all about the brakes.
Any suggestions on something I'm not considering or something else I should try to do?
On another note, the HPDE at MIR has had a light turnout and they are asking that we invite our friends to come join. Here for more: http://www.musiccitymustangclub.org/ or email me for the pdf's - yow@ericyow.com.
Thanks!!!
05-16-2012, 09:42 AM
#2
Le Mans Master
Bleeding is the least expensive potential fix and often solves a spongy pedal feel. Put a good quality DOT4 fluid in if you're not already using DOT4. Opinions will vary on which fluid, but whether it's SRF, Motul or ATE you'll get good results.
05-16-2012, 10:23 AM
#5
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St. Jude Donor '11,'13
I hope you plan to use diffrent pads for your HPDE at MIR.
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Adam Adelstein
Amp’D Autosport.com
Internet's largest retailer of Carbotech Performance Brake Pads.
PH:216-780-8825.
Email: sales@ampdautosport.com
Web Site & Direct ordering http://ampdautosport.com/
All major CC and Pay Pal accepted.
Check out Promo code:z28
Adam Adelstein
Amp’D Autosport.com
Internet's largest retailer of Carbotech Performance Brake Pads.
PH:216-780-8825.
Email: sales@ampdautosport.com
Web Site & Direct ordering http://ampdautosport.com/
All major CC and Pay Pal accepted.
Check out Promo code:z28
05-16-2012, 10:31 AM
#6
05-16-2012, 10:41 AM
#7
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St. Jude Donor '11,'13
1521™ is suitable for ALL street cars, perfect for your tow vehicle or fleet vehicle. Carbotech™ 1521™ is NOT recommended for ANY track use.
Your brake problem maybe your pads, are they Shinny? you may have glazed them. I am happy to hear they worked well for you but this is not an optimal track pad.
05-16-2012, 11:21 AM
#8
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St. Jude Donor '11,'13
Eric, thank you for your order and I am sure this will be a lot more efficent track set up and like I said you can leave them on for street or swap back and forth with no problem.
05-16-2012, 03:43 PM
#9
Le Mans Master
You should take a good look at your rotors too. While the Carbotech compounds are all pretty compatible if you've glazed up your pads you may have done some serious heat damage to your rotors. If they're drilled small cracks around the holes are normal (and a good example of why not to use drilled on the track) but if any of the cracks are headed for the outer edge of the rotor it will become a problem. I got some DBA 4000's from the folks at KNS Brakes, good folks there too.
05-16-2012, 04:53 PM
#10
Drifting
I was impressed with the Carbotech XP10's on the track. Great braking feel and not hard on the rotors which I suppose was due to breaking them in as instructed.
Need to order the bobcats next for street driving.
Need to order the bobcats next for street driving.
05-16-2012, 04:55 PM
#11
Drifting
So you removed the calipers to paint them... You may have a bubble in the ABS system. I fought this problem and was never able to bleed the problem away. I finally got it solved by taking it to the dealership and having them do a Tech II bleed/flush. They flushed 4 liters thru the system while exercising the ABS. That solved my problem. Coist was about $90 plus brake fluid. BTW, my problem started when I removed the calipers to rebuild them.
JIm
JIm
Last edited by jlutherva; 05-16-2012 at 06:47 PM. Reason: addition to cost.
05-18-2012, 09:29 AM
#12
I believe we found the problem. When I painted my calipers and reinstalled, I did not get new crush washers but was merely particular about putting the originals back in. Foolish. The front left was letting air in the line. To be safe, because there's the track day next weekend, I replaced the master cylinder. I'll do pads and crush washers this weekend and all will be well.
05-18-2012, 12:32 PM
#13
Safety Car
I believe we found the problem. When I painted my calipers and reinstalled, I did not get new crush washers but was merely particular about putting the originals back in. Foolish. The front left was letting air in the line. To be safe, because there's the track day next weekend, I replaced the master cylinder. I'll do pads and crush washers this weekend and all will be well.
05-18-2012, 12:36 PM
#14
It's the washer that goes on top and bottom of the banjo bolt where the ss line meets the caliper. When you disconnect the line from the caliper you are supposed to change the copper washers (seals) out, apparently. This was news to me. The washer 'crushes' and makes the seal when tightened to spec, which is somewhere around 30.
Hope this helps.
Hope this helps.