froggy47

Not paid to get it done, but actually done it yourself? What's involved?

davidfarmer

it's been a while, but I think you disconnect the pedal inside, then it twists out of the fire wall, Just rotate it. There is a pin you can push out to disconnect the line.

It's frustrating, but not hard.

VetteDrmr

Biggest hassle is having to pull the entire drivetrain out so you can get it out.

By far if I had to replace the slave I'd probably do a full clutch service at the same time.

HTH, and have a good one,
Mike

davidfarmer

I'm talking about the cylinder on the firewall, sounds like you are talking about the throw-out bearing. I don't think you need to pull the drivetrain to pull the cylinder, but we could have our nomenclature mixed.......

sperkins

Clutch master cylinder = pretty simple. You only need to pull the pedal assembly if you're going to use an aftermarket adjustable like a Tick.
Just remove the pushrod from the clutch pedal and it pops out from the engine side. Getting the quick disconnect on the hydraulic line uncoupled can be a trick.

Clutch slave cylinder = not easy. It's basically a clutch job which involves removing the entire driveline less the engine.

froggy47

It's clutch slave that I need to look after where the drive line comes out. Anyone have a diy? I do have the FSM but I want the shortcuts & non factory tool substitutions.


Does the dif come out?

fatbillybob

I have when I did my clutch R&R. it is not a big deal just 2 bolts and the input line, a throwout bearing some seals. Consider an external bleed line addition then you don't have to do the ranger sort of bleed method. consider what parts you are replacing with. I would check for the need for throw out bearing shaft assembly shimming even if using everything OEM because it is a major pain if you assume everything is correct. It is easier to check. Consider pulling the pressure plate off since you are there and carefully insect the PP, flywheel, and clutch disc. You will know why I say these things after you spend many dirty hours under your car trying to pull the entire drivetrain. How many bolts are on the tunnelplate? 500? Geez what a pita this job is. I marvel at the guys willing to tackle this job without a lift. Circ-de-soleil comes to mind.

froggy47

Yes, I should mention this will be jackstands.

VetteDrmr

Exhaust, cover plate, shifter, diff, tranny, torque tube, ...

NOW, once that's out of the way, well, swapping out the slave is a piece of cake!

Here's some photos:

http://redshift.homestead.com/Drivetrain1.html

Some how-to's:

http://www.cajundude.com/c5techhome.htm

Good luck!

Mike

sperkins

What makes you think the slave is bad?

froggy47

Here's a link to a previous thread.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/auto...-your-car.html

I think the seal has been somewhat damaged by that old Ferodo fluid that was in there for a day.

At the end of a 60 sec autox run (2nd gear - fast hard run) when I hit the clutch pedal to come to a stop, the disengage is sluggish, not crisp. It disengages ok but the pedal feels "funny". It's stock & spring is as stock also. The fluid stays clear now, back to Wilwood 570, I may try some GM dot -4 and see if that helps. Fluid blends can be different.

Normal driving the pedal is 100% ok. No issues.

froggy47

Thanks Mike, so no special tools called out? That looks like a b buster job. Sheesh.

I would definately put a c6z clutch in, I believe it bolts in. FW should be ok, new TO bearing & any other minor parts.

VetteDrmr

No special tools, but I would invest in a set of large jackstands to get the rear as high in the air as possible.

One other jackstand hint: cars aren't very stable under 4, but rock solid with two in the back and the front tires on the ground. You could put the fronts on 2 stacked 2x6s to get the nose up somewhat.

Then use your floor jack to lower the rear drivetrain.

Oh yeah, it's NOT a quick job! If you could find someone with a lift you can get the job done in about a day. If not, then I'd guess at least 2 full days.

HTH, and have a good one,
Mike