Cam selection...Specific to Road racing??
#1
Le Mans Master
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Cam selection...Specific to Road racing??
SO my brand new built for the 2nd time 383 stroker has oil pressure issues, I'm thinking the bearings are wiped. So going to tear it down to replace them and while I'm in there Im contemplating putting in a new cam. I really think my set up is underpowered to what a 383 should be, so maybe time to put a bigger cam in there while its apart. Is there such thing as too big? if so, I want to be right below whatever that is
Right now there is a 232/241 .570”/.559”
Thoughts?? What are the best kind of specs for Road racing?
Right now there is a 232/241 .570”/.559”
Thoughts?? What are the best kind of specs for Road racing?
#2
I finally did a cam...nothing crazy, just a 571/574 228/230 ish cam, GMPP heads with CHE upgraded rockers, 918 Springs, and a 90mm intake. After a conservative tune focused on A/F not power, it still rolled in the 440's at the wheels with just under 400 ftlbs over a pretty wide band. Dyno sheet is a nice picture but otherwise BS. At a very cold Watkins Glen I was able to run a low 2:05 and hang with the best piloted C6Z I know of; it has roughly the equivalent suspension mods to mine. It felt like the C6Z still has me in the torque department...no replacement for displacement. The block and rotating assembly are still stock.
On the downside, I think I get to rip the engine apart again this winter because the cylinder walls barely show signs that a cross hatch pattern ever existed. Wouldn't mind overbuilding the bottom end for peace of mind.
Any Trackmasters in your future?
On the downside, I think I get to rip the engine apart again this winter because the cylinder walls barely show signs that a cross hatch pattern ever existed. Wouldn't mind overbuilding the bottom end for peace of mind.
Any Trackmasters in your future?
Last edited by kmagvette; 05-08-2012 at 11:26 PM.
#3
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I've been contimplating this as well, I feel that the MS3,MS4 cam is something to consider. They're high rpm cams and when racing that's really the place where you spend most of your time.
#4
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MS3 and MS4 have too much lift.
Stick with lifts no more then .590 - .595
the better cams for road race reliability use lifts only to the mid .570s
one of the top road race cams is a 20 year old design.
The GM Cup cam 88958606
239/251 570/570 106
TSP Torque 2 may be biggest cam for reliability
232/234 595/598 112
Comp Cams RR recommendations same as Torque 2
232/234 595/598 112
Cane has a road race cam that may be a torque monster
218/224 585/585 110
LG has some great RR cams too
LGx1 or x2
Something to think about for road course use:
Most road courses are corner after corner after corner, connected by short straights, with an occasional long straight.
Generally a smaller exhaust is hotter off the turns and bigger exhaust is hotter at the top. So you will have to make the call here. Remember, exit speed is for the whole straight.
However, if this is fender to fender, those last few mph make a big difference in passing.
I would focus on coming out of the corners, since that will affect lap time most.
non of these cams will be dyno kings, but that is not what your looking for.
good Luck
Stick with lifts no more then .590 - .595
the better cams for road race reliability use lifts only to the mid .570s
one of the top road race cams is a 20 year old design.
The GM Cup cam 88958606
239/251 570/570 106
TSP Torque 2 may be biggest cam for reliability
232/234 595/598 112
Comp Cams RR recommendations same as Torque 2
232/234 595/598 112
Cane has a road race cam that may be a torque monster
218/224 585/585 110
LG has some great RR cams too
LGx1 or x2
Something to think about for road course use:
Most road courses are corner after corner after corner, connected by short straights, with an occasional long straight.
Generally a smaller exhaust is hotter off the turns and bigger exhaust is hotter at the top. So you will have to make the call here. Remember, exit speed is for the whole straight.
However, if this is fender to fender, those last few mph make a big difference in passing.
I would focus on coming out of the corners, since that will affect lap time most.
non of these cams will be dyno kings, but that is not what your looking for.
good Luck
Last edited by AU N EGL; 05-09-2012 at 07:58 AM.
#6
Here's what I was taught when I worked at a marina that built offshore racing engines...think WOT for 80%+ of over a half-hour at a time, just coming off throttle for waves when the outdrive leaves the water and then going right back to WOT.
More lift means working the valvetrain harder, and when you're running 30min+ HPDE sessions or even longer competition events it takes a toll on the parts.
Springs fatigue sooner, lifters are travelling farther in the bores, valves are travelling farther in the guides. More motion means more friction. More spring compression means faster fatigue on the spring wire.
And then there's trying to keep the valves under control for the WOT blasts down the straights. Add a lot of spring pressure to do this, and the hydraulic lifters become a weak point if they're not designed for the extra force applied to them.
We were using solid lifters, rev kits under the heads to keep the lifters planted on the cam, and big dual springs to keep the valves under control...every trick in the book.
Big $$ for just a few extra top-end HP which you'll give up at lower RPMs when you're trying to exit the corners.
And as AU-N-EGL mentioned, your corner exit speed is where you're starting from at the beginning of the straight...the car running 70MPH after the corner exit has a big advantage over the car running 65MPH.
More lift means working the valvetrain harder, and when you're running 30min+ HPDE sessions or even longer competition events it takes a toll on the parts.
Springs fatigue sooner, lifters are travelling farther in the bores, valves are travelling farther in the guides. More motion means more friction. More spring compression means faster fatigue on the spring wire.
And then there's trying to keep the valves under control for the WOT blasts down the straights. Add a lot of spring pressure to do this, and the hydraulic lifters become a weak point if they're not designed for the extra force applied to them.
We were using solid lifters, rev kits under the heads to keep the lifters planted on the cam, and big dual springs to keep the valves under control...every trick in the book.
Big $$ for just a few extra top-end HP which you'll give up at lower RPMs when you're trying to exit the corners.
And as AU-N-EGL mentioned, your corner exit speed is where you're starting from at the beginning of the straight...the car running 70MPH after the corner exit has a big advantage over the car running 65MPH.
#7
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If you wish to rebuild your valve train every few months, then YES high lift can provided great results with the appropriate heads.
and rebuilding frequently.
drag race engines and high hp dyno kings are very very different then road race engines.
Reliability and Power are key.
The two areas we see engine failure on road course are oiling issues and valve train failure from high lift cams
and rebuilding frequently.
drag race engines and high hp dyno kings are very very different then road race engines.
Reliability and Power are key.
The two areas we see engine failure on road course are oiling issues and valve train failure from high lift cams
Last edited by AU N EGL; 05-10-2012 at 02:38 AM.
#8
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smallish cams also have greater / quicker throttle response vs bigger cams.
Out of the corner speeds and quick throttle response vs high end RPM hp.
for a 383 Race engine
Here is a possibility: 54-448-11 XER287HR
238/240 605/609 112+2
rpm 2800 to 7200
LSr lobe design
Out of the corner speeds and quick throttle response vs high end RPM hp.
for a 383 Race engine
Here is a possibility: 54-448-11 XER287HR
238/240 605/609 112+2
rpm 2800 to 7200
LSr lobe design
Last edited by AU N EGL; 05-10-2012 at 09:19 AM.
#9
Racer
smallish cams also have greater / quicker throttle response vs bigger cams.
Out of the corner speeds and quick throttle response vs high end RPM hp.
for a 383 Race engine
Here is a possibility: 54-448-11 XER287HR
238/240 605/609 112+2
rpm 2800 to 7200
LSr lobe design
Out of the corner speeds and quick throttle response vs high end RPM hp.
for a 383 Race engine
Here is a possibility: 54-448-11 XER287HR
238/240 605/609 112+2
rpm 2800 to 7200
LSr lobe design
The lower lift should help the valve train life, but is it too mild for road racing?
#11
Pro
I can tell you that the Vengeance racing LS3 stage III cam really sucks for autocrossing. its specs are 231/243, .617/.624, 115+3.
It has a hard hit when you get into its powerband and that tends to be mid corner, upsetting the car, and tuning it to run right was a real bitch.
It does make good power and is right at home on the dragstrip
It has a hard hit when you get into its powerband and that tends to be mid corner, upsetting the car, and tuning it to run right was a real bitch.
It does make good power and is right at home on the dragstrip
#13
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I can tell you that the Vengeance racing LS3 stage III cam really sucks for autocrossing. its specs are 231/243, .617/.624, 115+3.
It has a hard hit when you get into its powerband and that tends to be mid corner, upsetting the car, and tuning it to run right was a real bitch.
It does make good power and is right at home on the dragstrip
It has a hard hit when you get into its powerband and that tends to be mid corner, upsetting the car, and tuning it to run right was a real bitch.
It does make good power and is right at home on the dragstrip
#14
Le Mans Master
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I finally did a cam...nothing crazy, just a 571/574 228/230 ish cam, GMPP heads with CHE upgraded rockers, 918 Springs, and a 90mm intake. After a conservative tune focused on A/F not power, it still rolled in the 440's at the wheels with just under 400 ftlbs over a pretty wide band. Dyno sheet is a nice picture but otherwise BS. At a very cold Watkins Glen I was able to run a low 2:05 and hang with the best piloted C6Z I know of; it has roughly the equivalent suspension mods to mine. It felt like the C6Z still has me in the torque department...no replacement for displacement. The block and rotating assembly are still stock.
On the downside, I think I get to rip the engine apart again this winter because the cylinder walls barely show signs that a cross hatch pattern ever existed. Wouldn't mind overbuilding the bottom end for peace of mind.
Any Trackmasters in your future?
On the downside, I think I get to rip the engine apart again this winter because the cylinder walls barely show signs that a cross hatch pattern ever existed. Wouldn't mind overbuilding the bottom end for peace of mind.
Any Trackmasters in your future?
When is TrackMasters doing their next WGI days, by brother in law is addicted and now wants to go back to the Glen soon.
MS3 and MS4 have too much lift.
Stick with lifts no more then .590 - .595
the better cams for road race reliability use lifts only to the mid .570s
one of the top road race cams is a 20 year old design.
The GM Cup cam 88958606
239/251 570/570 106
TSP Torque 2 may be biggest cam for reliability
232/234 595/598 112
Comp Cams RR recommendations same as Torque 2
232/234 595/598 112
Cane has a road race cam that may be a torque monster
218/224 585/585 110
LG has some great RR cams too
LGx1 or x2
Something to think about for road course use:
Most road courses are corner after corner after corner, connected by short straights, with an occasional long straight.
Generally a smaller exhaust is hotter off the turns and bigger exhaust is hotter at the top. So you will have to make the call here. Remember, exit speed is for the whole straight.
However, if this is fender to fender, those last few mph make a big difference in passing.
I would focus on coming out of the corners, since that will affect lap time most.
non of these cams will be dyno kings, but that is not what your looking for.
good Luck
Stick with lifts no more then .590 - .595
the better cams for road race reliability use lifts only to the mid .570s
one of the top road race cams is a 20 year old design.
The GM Cup cam 88958606
239/251 570/570 106
TSP Torque 2 may be biggest cam for reliability
232/234 595/598 112
Comp Cams RR recommendations same as Torque 2
232/234 595/598 112
Cane has a road race cam that may be a torque monster
218/224 585/585 110
LG has some great RR cams too
LGx1 or x2
Something to think about for road course use:
Most road courses are corner after corner after corner, connected by short straights, with an occasional long straight.
Generally a smaller exhaust is hotter off the turns and bigger exhaust is hotter at the top. So you will have to make the call here. Remember, exit speed is for the whole straight.
However, if this is fender to fender, those last few mph make a big difference in passing.
I would focus on coming out of the corners, since that will affect lap time most.
non of these cams will be dyno kings, but that is not what your looking for.
good Luck
#17
Le Mans Master
a torqey one that comes on early, and easy on the valvetrain. you dont need a big cam to make peak HP, considering you arnt there nearly as much as when you really need it, coming off the corners. for a 383, i would do a 237/237 590 liift 112+4...something like that. Good midrange power for those cubes.
#18
Le Mans Master
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Hey Keith, won't be able to make that one, we have 2 events here at Mosport June 1 and June 4th. We are looking for a couple events at WGI Mid and end of season though... Will look for postings and maybe see you there.
#19
Le Mans Master
I can tell you that the Vengeance racing LS3 stage III cam really sucks for autocrossing. its specs are 231/243, .617/.624, 115+3.
It has a hard hit when you get into its powerband and that tends to be mid corner, upsetting the car, and tuning it to run right was a real bitch.
It does make good power and is right at home on the dragstrip
It has a hard hit when you get into its powerband and that tends to be mid corner, upsetting the car, and tuning it to run right was a real bitch.
It does make good power and is right at home on the dragstrip
#20
Safety Car
I have the MS3 in my forged LS2. When I rebuilt my motor, I had someone else spec it out as I just didn't know. I have over 30 track days in the past 3 1/2 years. Zero issues. I did redo the heads last spring, so I am keeping with repl valve train every 2 years. Car makes great power with plenty of readily available torque. Generally, anyone I can't out drive, I can outrun. Needless to say, I out run a lot of people.
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