gfacter

Has anyone done a Wilwood upgrade w/o buying a package with stuff?

I would like to use OEM rotors and use thicker Carbotech pads.

I already have braided lines and have seen the calipers for ~ 400 each, The key part I think is the bracket adapter.

Can you get those separate from the kits?

Thanks

TmillerC5

You probably will have to go to Wilwood direct to get them. The bracket is the key in the deal. Otherwise all you said will work. I got the LG kit a few years back and ran just what you are wanting to. Finally switched to StopTech 2 piece roters and as the stock NAPA grade would crack after a couple of events. StopTechs have lasted a year and halfso far and about 8 events. Lots of spider cracks but nothing all the way to the edge. Might be worth looking at that too.
Tim

Adam@Amp'dAutosport.com

I can get you the pads, let me know.

geerookie

If you use the Wilwood bracket you will not be able to run OEM or made for OEM good rotors such as Gary's T1 rotors. They position the caliper in the wrong place.

Get the brackets that LG makes for their kit or see if you can talk Gary into making you a set. That is your only choices unless you want to buy a kit.

If you are buying the calipers make sure you get the SL6R/ST for the front and the SL4R for the rear and size your pistons properly so you don't end up with a long pedal.

gfacter

why did I start another corvette track project..?

$800.00 rotors?

The Wilwood kit uses their rotors which are in the $ 200.00 range, If I knew I could get 2-4 times the life of a OEM rotor maybe I will go that route.

I had enough cheap rotors, I was cracking the cheap Chinese rotors on my Spec Miata. I put cheater front brakes on the car (larger calipers rotors a and bias adjuster) and my pad life and braking ability is 10x better, It's not legal for racing, but that ship sailed a while back. Nothing spec those series anymore.

Adam, I have been using Carbotech pads since 2006. My right foot and C6 ate them up at a alarming rate. I think XP12 front and Xp10 rears,

Anyway, enough rambling I need to replace a leaking power steering pump so I can autocross this Sunday at the Cumberland MD airport.




geerookie I have a pic just like your Avatar, from a frame off C6.....er restoration....

OCCOMSRAZOR

Call Anthony at LG Motorsports. He can set you up with EXACTLY what you need.

I use the LG G-Stop with the Wilwood SL6 front and SL4 rear. I got rid of the emergency brake and use the same rotors front and rear. It uses the stock C6 rotor size.

I get slotted rotors from this guy for $60.00 each when I buy 8 at a time: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/paci...free-ship.html

To me, this is an outstanding and very cost effective setup as I use the same rotor on each wheel, and the same brake pad (Cobalt 20 mm XR2) in each caliper.

sperkins

I did with the help from a well respected fellow racer.

Best of both worlds from a cost standpoint.

Yes it is.

Only from one place that I know of (without paying a huge premium for not buying the whole brake kit) and his are manufactured from higher strength material.

I'm sure he'll be contacting you shortly if he's interested in selling.

gfacter

sperkins

vms4evr

I kinda like the Wilwood kit. I got a used SL6R kit. I like their front rotors. Very light and the rings last longer than the chinese oem replacements. Still more expensive long term. They'll cost you $200/ring regardless of where you buy them. The only thing I would change is I regret not getting SL6 with the wider calipers that hold the 7420, instead of 7416 pad. You get fatter pads and they cost increase is negligible.

I like the Wilwood setup and am considering doing the rears also.

One note. They don't taper badly like stock but you'll still get long pedal like stock when the pads wear. I took old pads to a machine shop. Had them cut and squared at .150. When my pads wear down I stick them in as shims. I can run pads almost down to the backing plate like that and not have the pedal down on the floor.

John Shiels

WW SL-4 works great with 13" rotor on rear too if you can ditch the E brake.

SoDiezl350

The SL6R wilwood kit already requires that the caliper be shimmed both axially and radially to accurately center the caliper to the rotor. The axial adjustments are usually in the range of .030"

What are people's thoughts on shimming the bracket enough to be able to use the oem C5 rotor? It would require approximately .180" of shimming.

vms4evr

Thanks John, yes I ditched the E brake as part of my tear down gutting out the car. Cables, the pads, adjusters, hand brake, are all gone. When I pull the rear wheel bearings to put the SKF ones in I'll get rid of that E brake backing plate. Might be the excuse to throw in SL4 at the same time. I think the rotors saved me at least 5lbs per side in the front.

John Shiels

I used front rotors on rear. I left the ebrake cable in just tied it off as it looks like a real PITA to remove.

The you need one pad and one rotor size which makes it great.

beerkat

The individual that sperkins is talking about set me up with a six piston Wilwood on the front. I used his two piece rotors also front and back. That is on the stock C5Z 17" front wheel. I will get to try them at CMP later this month.

95jersey

Another thumbs up. The LG kit allows you to use OEM rotors, vs. the direct Wilwood kit you need to use their rotors. Also, LG's come with thermolocks (if I remember). Also, the caliper version LG uses, allows you to use thicker pads (and I mean thick).