ScaryFast

I am, of course, referring to the oil pressure sensor under the MAP sensor. Anyone tried this? Seems like a good place to plumb in the accusump. All I need is an M16x1.5 to -10 adapter...

I have a couple of ideas of where to get oil pressure if I do this.

OCCOMSRAZOR

Do a search for accusump and look for David Farmers response. He has detailed instructions about plumbing the Accusump that I found very helpful and relatively easy.

TJM

Here are the picts. seemed as good a time as any to send 'em.
This may not apply to a daily driver. This car is for the track only.




the lower line goes to the accusump bottle.





The Accusump is in the drvr door. Not real sure that's legal, but can't find a rule that saws not?





This is part of my worry. the height above the crankcase.








That's it, and the other ones.

Had loads of room even with the ZF, can't imagine a clearance issue with a C5 or C6 getting lings around the back?

TJM

ScaryFast

Thanks. I've seen Farmer's, Popp's, Len's, etc. versions; all good methods. But that wasn't my question...

I want to know if my idea is valid, I have a different application than those guys and like this location.

MySR71

Maybe the pic in this thread will help:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...-journals.html

ScaryFast

Looks like as good a point as any from this diagram. It's basically just "upstream" from the filter input, which is where most people plumb in. I'd assume it would get the critical bearings first...

Thanks, Dan.

L98Terror

You probably should go with a dry sump

ScaryFast

I made the change and it works well. I found an M16 to -8 adapter. Then I added a -8 female to male adapter with an inline 1/8" NPT fitting for the manual pressure guage, and plumbed the accusump into that.

yooper

subscribed

Kubs

Looks good!

Cobra4B

Nice work... this will be perfect for the LS1 install on the Panoz. That port is ridiculously easy to access and the oil pressure is taken from the remote filter block already.

Cobra4B

Does the anti-drainback valve in the oil filter function as the check-valve here? I.e. stops the oil from back-flowing to the pump and forces it into the main oil galleys?

trackboss

yes

davidfarmer

Personally, I believe you get a benefit no matter where you put it in the system. Even if half of the fluid flows backward initially, you have to re-fill any drained lines with fresh fluid before your engine can create healthy pressure on it's own anyway. Whether the accusump feeds directly into the journals, or whether it helps re-prime the system, it's a benefit.

Cobra4B

That's a good point David.

trackboss

My experience with accusump on my ls motor has been not all that great. Looking at the oil diagram it may be better to plumb it into the top as mentioned above simply because the path is less restricted. I still don't understand why gm screwed up the oil ports so much down by the filter. For something as critical as oiling it just seems like such a bad idea to force the oil to go through so many sharp turns and restrictions. Especially before it even gets to anything that needs to be lubed. Not to mention that the rotating assembly is last on the list.

ScaryFast

I've run the car twice since the engine install, and pressure looks good. Turn 1 at Mid-O is a long, fast left hander (~1.6g, no aero on my car) and I did not lose OP while spectator2's stock C5 kept flashing the low OP warning in the same turn.

I meant to put a camera on the guage so I can watch it later, but never got there.

Hopefully I will never know if this location will work to save my engine in a catastrophic...

ScaryFast

I've been thinking about this...from the picture I'd think the cam bearings would be filled but if the oil splits and goes both ways, I don't know if you'd get much down to the mains. So in order to get to them you'd have to get the oil all the way to the pan and then suck it back up through the pump. I wonder if there's enough in a 2qt AS. I need to look at a full oil diagram.

Somebody go blow up their motor and tell us if this helped.

Cobra4B

That is the full diagram... the oil goes through the lifter galley and down to the mains. The mains or oiled last... well the rod are technically last since they received oil from the crank.

The idea is to prevent oil from flowing back down the oil galley on the back of the block when you push it in via that top oil pressure sending unit port.

If you have the oil filter in place it will have an anti-drainback valve which will stop backflow to the oil pump so the oil should flow forward into the lifter galley and down to the mains.

RX-Ben

I'm not quite sure if this is useful:

Last year when I had an oil cooler and remote oil filter setup installed, when I picked up the car the lines from the Canton remote feed (which installs in place of the OEM oil filter) were installed backwards. I did not realize this at the time. I went out for my first session and oil pressure would not go above ~35psi, so I came in to troubleshoot. I gathered that there was no oil flowing through the external system (oil cooler was cold despite oil temps in the 180-200 range). My guess was that the anti-drainbacks in the oil filters prevented oil (flowing in the wrong direction) from reaching the oil cooler.
The engine worked (I drove 500+ miles like that to make it to Mid-O) but oil pressure would not get above 30 or 35psi (fine for the highway). I called up Canton while under the car and determined that the oil lines were reversed, blew a track day hunting down this issue, AN wrenches and re-plumbing. Once I switched the lines, all was back to normal.