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Water pump lube: where to buy it

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Old 03-14-2012, 12:29 AM
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sothpaw2
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Default Water pump lube: where to buy it

Hi folks,

I'd like to try running pure DI water or close to it (maybe leave 20% dex) for this year. I"ll put plenty of water wetter in. (any suggestions how much?) But I remember reading here that a few of you used a lubricant, a pump lube, in addition to WW.

So who sells this lube? Can you post a link or a phone # so I could get it on order?

Thanks!

Ps. One other thing...I recall there was a rule of thumb for the additional coolant temp allowed because of the system pressurization. What was the number? 4 deg F /psi cap pressure? I'd like to calc the true boiling point of the 20% dex 80% water combo just to stay out of danger.

Last edited by sothpaw2; 03-14-2012 at 12:34 AM.
Old 03-14-2012, 12:44 AM
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froggy47
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So far as I have ever seen, the water wetter has the lubes in it. Not to say that somebody won't sell you something that claims additional properties of lubrication.

Old 03-14-2012, 02:37 AM
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Solid LT1
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NAPA stores carry soluble oil lubricants but, its probably not something you want to encounter on a racetrack.
Old 03-14-2012, 09:55 AM
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travisnd
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I've always ran distilled water with two bottles of water wetter to act as lubrication for the pump/seals. Never heard of a separate product for this.
Old 03-14-2012, 04:23 PM
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Everett Ogilvie
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I agree with those above who think the WW has what you need, including the water pump protection and corrosion protection. I researched this pretty big when I made the switch for the track last year and so far so good with tap water and WW only - it definitely lowered temps and I will never use glycol solutions again (I don't need the freezing protection in this car). My take is you get enough boiling protection via your pressurized system so you don't need the extra margin that antifreeze offers.
Old 03-14-2012, 08:58 PM
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Bill Dearborn
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You used to be able to buy water pump lube in cans at any auto parts store. It was the same lube that was in antifreeze. Haven't seen it in many years though.

Here is a link to an on line source: http://barsproducts.com/catalog/view...anti-rust-1311 .

Here is another link: http://www.autobarn.net/chc10-12.html

If you are running a 20% mix of Dex you may not need to add any lubricant.

Bill

Last edited by Bill Dearborn; 03-14-2012 at 09:00 PM.
Old 03-15-2012, 12:48 AM
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sothpaw2
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Bill,

Have you used those or do you just use WW?

Anybody know the boiling point for pure water in the pressurized stock C5 system?
Old 03-15-2012, 09:51 AM
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geerookie
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Originally Posted by sothpaw2
Bill,

Have you used those or do you just use WW?

Anybody know the boiling point for pure water in the pressurized stock C5 system?
Old 03-15-2012, 09:55 AM
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travisnd
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At what pressure do our cooling systems operate?
Old 03-15-2012, 09:55 AM
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I use Amsoil's version of WW. The nice thing is you don't need to use distilled water.

If you are running any type of Dex /Glycol mix please let me know what tracks you are at so I can stay off track.
That stuff is as bad or worse than driving through oil!
Probably seems worse because there is 10 - 12 qts vs. only 5 -7 qts of oil. Not counting a dry sump system.
Old 03-15-2012, 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by travisnd
At what pressure do our cooling systems operate?
Depends on the system and what it was design for and by who.

Typical street cars run between 15 psi and 24 psi above atmospheric.

Race cars it depends on many things.
Some NASCAR teams has been running their systems as high as 80psi above.
Obviously, the higher the pressure the hotter the water can get before turning to steam and water cools better than steam.
Just remember, you can't just change the rad cap to get that higher pressure.
Actually you can, but at some point a hose or the rad will spring a leak. The whole system has to be designed to handle the higher pressures.

Stock Corvettes are between 15psi and 18psi above atmospheric. My new system is design to work at 28psi above atmospheric.
Old 03-15-2012, 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by sothpaw2
Bill,

Have you used those or do you just use WW?

Anybody know the boiling point for pure water in the pressurized stock C5 system?
It has been ages since I used any of this stuff. The reason antifreeze needs to be changed is due to losing the ability to lube the water pump and to prevent corrosion. With the old green antifreeze that had to be flushed out every two years one of the ways you could extend its life was to restore its lube and anti corrosion properties by throwing in some of this stuff after a year and a half or so. Not sure which brand I used it could have been one of these. It did work.

Bill
Old 03-15-2012, 09:58 PM
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sothpaw2
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Originally Posted by geerookie
Depends on the system and what it was design for and by who.

Typical street cars run between 15 psi and 24 psi above atmospheric.

Race cars it depends on many things.
Some NASCAR teams has been running their systems as high as 80psi above.
Obviously, the higher the pressure the hotter the water can get before turning to steam and water cools better than steam.
Just remember, you can't just change the rad cap to get that higher pressure.
Actually you can, but at some point a hose or the rad will spring a leak. The whole system has to be designed to handle the higher pressures.

Stock Corvettes are between 15psi and 18psi above atmospheric. My new system is design to work at 28psi above atmospheric.
Yeah I see the cap says 15psi so I guess 250F is the boil and I better keep it below 240F. Hoping it is much more efficient then the dexcool.
Old 03-16-2012, 12:54 PM
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I am not sure I understand what the charts are saying.

Do we add the cooling system psi to the chart psi?


Not trying to over complicate it, just understand it.

With dexcool & stock radiator & cap I have seen my coolant temp @ about 250f on track. I did back off & there was no damage. I got a coolant temp RED warning, IIRC it was 254f.

Oil temp was higher.

What about track altitude? I was at 1115 feet.


So raising the BP of the coolant is one thing,

Does raising the BP MAKE the engine run cooler?

Not sure.

Radiator figures into this.

Then there's the oil temp which is arguably more important than the coolant temp.

I guess I'm saying running distilled & WW is not the ultimate answer to engine cooling concerns.


Last edited by froggy47; 03-16-2012 at 01:01 PM.
Old 03-16-2012, 01:25 PM
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sothpaw2
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Originally Posted by froggy47
I am not sure I understand what the charts are saying.

Do we add the cooling system psi to the chart psi?


Not trying to over complicate it, just understand it.

With dexcool & stock radiator & cap I have seen my coolant temp @ about 250f on track. I did back off & there was no damage. I got a coolant temp RED warning, IIRC it was 254f.

Oil temp was higher.

What about track altitude? I was at 1115 feet.


So raising the BP of the coolant is one thing,

Does raising the BP MAKE the engine run cooler?

Not sure.

Radiator figures into this.

Then there's the oil temp which is arguably more important than the coolant temp.

I guess I'm saying running distilled & WW is not the ultimate answer to engine cooling concerns.

The cap pressure of 15psi is a gage pressure, so yes, it's 15+14.7(atmospheric, if the water was in your drinking glass). The BP for dexcool is somewhat higher, that's why I wanted to clarify the formula.
The coolant gage in the car is for Dexcool and does not apply if you put pure water in there.
Old 03-16-2012, 03:08 PM
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Originally Posted by froggy47
What about track altitude? I was at 1115 feet.



Does raising the BP MAKE the engine run cooler?
Altitude affects boiling point because the higher you are...I mean go, the less atmospheric pressure there is.

Raising the boiling point of water has nothing to do with how hot your motor gets/runs until the water turns to steam and then it shoots off the chart quickly.
Keeping the water from turning to steam (boiling) extracts the most Btu's possible which helps to cool your engine more efficiently.

If your motor never sees north of 212 degrees you would not need to worry about boiling point. This is just to keep the water as the most efficient Btu transfer medium from the block to the plumbing to the radiator as possible. The transfer from water/steam in the radiator is what determines the heat capacity of the system or in other words howhot your motor will run. (Not counting the contribution of the thermostat).
Water Wetter only helps the efficiency of BTU transfer from solid (block) to liquid (water in system) back to solid (radiator) to air.
Old 03-16-2012, 04:30 PM
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Prestone water pump lube .89 cents a can and you ONLY need one can. anti-freeze is a no-no one a road coarse....very slippery on asphalt.
Old 03-16-2012, 06:34 PM
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RX-Ben
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ABOUT RED LINE WATERWETTER® COOLANT ADDITIVES

Reduces or eliminates bubbles or vapor barrier that form on hot metal surfaces to reduce coolant temperatures by up to 20°
Superior heat transfer properties compared to glycol-based antifreeze
Compatible with new or used antifreeze (including DEX-COOL and long-life versions) to improve the heat transfer of ethylene and propylene glycol systems
Improves heat transfer and reduces cylinder head temperature
Designed for use with all modern aluminum, cast iron, copper, brass and bronze cooling systems
Cleans and lubricates water pump seals
Reduces cavitation and complexes with hard water to reduce scaling
Does not lower cooling system below the thermostatically-controlled temperature

http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=74&pcid=10
Old 03-16-2012, 07:47 PM
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Originally Posted by sothpaw2
The cap pressure of 15psi is a gage pressure, so yes, it's 15+14.7(atmospheric, if the water was in your drinking glass). The BP for dexcool is somewhat higher, that's why I wanted to clarify the formula.
The coolant gage in the car is for Dexcool and does not apply if you put pure water in there.
It doesn't matter if there is kool-aid in there. Temperature is temperature. The sensor doesn't care what medium it is submerged in. Resistance changes as temperature changes. The gauge only measures resistance.

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