Water pump lube: where to buy it
#1
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Water pump lube: where to buy it
Hi folks,
I'd like to try running pure DI water or close to it (maybe leave 20% dex) for this year. I"ll put plenty of water wetter in. (any suggestions how much?) But I remember reading here that a few of you used a lubricant, a pump lube, in addition to WW.
So who sells this lube? Can you post a link or a phone # so I could get it on order?
Thanks!
Ps. One other thing...I recall there was a rule of thumb for the additional coolant temp allowed because of the system pressurization. What was the number? 4 deg F /psi cap pressure? I'd like to calc the true boiling point of the 20% dex 80% water combo just to stay out of danger.
I'd like to try running pure DI water or close to it (maybe leave 20% dex) for this year. I"ll put plenty of water wetter in. (any suggestions how much?) But I remember reading here that a few of you used a lubricant, a pump lube, in addition to WW.
So who sells this lube? Can you post a link or a phone # so I could get it on order?
Thanks!
Ps. One other thing...I recall there was a rule of thumb for the additional coolant temp allowed because of the system pressurization. What was the number? 4 deg F /psi cap pressure? I'd like to calc the true boiling point of the 20% dex 80% water combo just to stay out of danger.
Last edited by sothpaw2; 03-14-2012 at 12:34 AM.
#5
Melting Slicks
I agree with those above who think the WW has what you need, including the water pump protection and corrosion protection. I researched this pretty big when I made the switch for the track last year and so far so good with tap water and WW only - it definitely lowered temps and I will never use glycol solutions again (I don't need the freezing protection in this car). My take is you get enough boiling protection via your pressurized system so you don't need the extra margin that antifreeze offers.
#6
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You used to be able to buy water pump lube in cans at any auto parts store. It was the same lube that was in antifreeze. Haven't seen it in many years though.
Here is a link to an on line source: http://barsproducts.com/catalog/view...anti-rust-1311 .
Here is another link: http://www.autobarn.net/chc10-12.html
If you are running a 20% mix of Dex you may not need to add any lubricant.
Bill
Here is a link to an on line source: http://barsproducts.com/catalog/view...anti-rust-1311 .
Here is another link: http://www.autobarn.net/chc10-12.html
If you are running a 20% mix of Dex you may not need to add any lubricant.
Bill
Last edited by Bill Dearborn; 03-14-2012 at 09:00 PM.
#10
Drifting
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I use Amsoil's version of WW. The nice thing is you don't need to use distilled water.
If you are running any type of Dex /Glycol mix please let me know what tracks you are at so I can stay off track.
That stuff is as bad or worse than driving through oil!
Probably seems worse because there is 10 - 12 qts vs. only 5 -7 qts of oil. Not counting a dry sump system.
If you are running any type of Dex /Glycol mix please let me know what tracks you are at so I can stay off track.
That stuff is as bad or worse than driving through oil!
Probably seems worse because there is 10 - 12 qts vs. only 5 -7 qts of oil. Not counting a dry sump system.
#11
Drifting
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Depends on the system and what it was design for and by who.
Typical street cars run between 15 psi and 24 psi above atmospheric.
Race cars it depends on many things.
Some NASCAR teams has been running their systems as high as 80psi above.
Obviously, the higher the pressure the hotter the water can get before turning to steam and water cools better than steam.
Just remember, you can't just change the rad cap to get that higher pressure.
Actually you can, but at some point a hose or the rad will spring a leak. The whole system has to be designed to handle the higher pressures.
Stock Corvettes are between 15psi and 18psi above atmospheric. My new system is design to work at 28psi above atmospheric.
Typical street cars run between 15 psi and 24 psi above atmospheric.
Race cars it depends on many things.
Some NASCAR teams has been running their systems as high as 80psi above.
Obviously, the higher the pressure the hotter the water can get before turning to steam and water cools better than steam.
Just remember, you can't just change the rad cap to get that higher pressure.
Actually you can, but at some point a hose or the rad will spring a leak. The whole system has to be designed to handle the higher pressures.
Stock Corvettes are between 15psi and 18psi above atmospheric. My new system is design to work at 28psi above atmospheric.
#12
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Bill
#13
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Depends on the system and what it was design for and by who.
Typical street cars run between 15 psi and 24 psi above atmospheric.
Race cars it depends on many things.
Some NASCAR teams has been running their systems as high as 80psi above.
Obviously, the higher the pressure the hotter the water can get before turning to steam and water cools better than steam.
Just remember, you can't just change the rad cap to get that higher pressure.
Actually you can, but at some point a hose or the rad will spring a leak. The whole system has to be designed to handle the higher pressures.
Stock Corvettes are between 15psi and 18psi above atmospheric. My new system is design to work at 28psi above atmospheric.
Typical street cars run between 15 psi and 24 psi above atmospheric.
Race cars it depends on many things.
Some NASCAR teams has been running their systems as high as 80psi above.
Obviously, the higher the pressure the hotter the water can get before turning to steam and water cools better than steam.
Just remember, you can't just change the rad cap to get that higher pressure.
Actually you can, but at some point a hose or the rad will spring a leak. The whole system has to be designed to handle the higher pressures.
Stock Corvettes are between 15psi and 18psi above atmospheric. My new system is design to work at 28psi above atmospheric.
#14
Race Director
I am not sure I understand what the charts are saying.
Do we add the cooling system psi to the chart psi?
Not trying to over complicate it, just understand it.
With dexcool & stock radiator & cap I have seen my coolant temp @ about 250f on track. I did back off & there was no damage. I got a coolant temp RED warning, IIRC it was 254f.
Oil temp was higher.
What about track altitude? I was at 1115 feet.
So raising the BP of the coolant is one thing,
Does raising the BP MAKE the engine run cooler?
Not sure.
Radiator figures into this.
Then there's the oil temp which is arguably more important than the coolant temp.
I guess I'm saying running distilled & WW is not the ultimate answer to engine cooling concerns.
Do we add the cooling system psi to the chart psi?
Not trying to over complicate it, just understand it.
With dexcool & stock radiator & cap I have seen my coolant temp @ about 250f on track. I did back off & there was no damage. I got a coolant temp RED warning, IIRC it was 254f.
Oil temp was higher.
What about track altitude? I was at 1115 feet.
So raising the BP of the coolant is one thing,
Does raising the BP MAKE the engine run cooler?
Not sure.
Radiator figures into this.
Then there's the oil temp which is arguably more important than the coolant temp.
I guess I'm saying running distilled & WW is not the ultimate answer to engine cooling concerns.
Last edited by froggy47; 03-16-2012 at 01:01 PM.
#15
Safety Car
Thread Starter
I am not sure I understand what the charts are saying.
Do we add the cooling system psi to the chart psi?
Not trying to over complicate it, just understand it.
With dexcool & stock radiator & cap I have seen my coolant temp @ about 250f on track. I did back off & there was no damage. I got a coolant temp RED warning, IIRC it was 254f.
Oil temp was higher.
What about track altitude? I was at 1115 feet.
So raising the BP of the coolant is one thing,
Does raising the BP MAKE the engine run cooler?
Not sure.
Radiator figures into this.
Then there's the oil temp which is arguably more important than the coolant temp.
I guess I'm saying running distilled & WW is not the ultimate answer to engine cooling concerns.
Do we add the cooling system psi to the chart psi?
Not trying to over complicate it, just understand it.
With dexcool & stock radiator & cap I have seen my coolant temp @ about 250f on track. I did back off & there was no damage. I got a coolant temp RED warning, IIRC it was 254f.
Oil temp was higher.
What about track altitude? I was at 1115 feet.
So raising the BP of the coolant is one thing,
Does raising the BP MAKE the engine run cooler?
Not sure.
Radiator figures into this.
Then there's the oil temp which is arguably more important than the coolant temp.
I guess I'm saying running distilled & WW is not the ultimate answer to engine cooling concerns.
The coolant gage in the car is for Dexcool and does not apply if you put pure water in there.
#16
Drifting
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Raising the boiling point of water has nothing to do with how hot your motor gets/runs until the water turns to steam and then it shoots off the chart quickly.
Keeping the water from turning to steam (boiling) extracts the most Btu's possible which helps to cool your engine more efficiently.
If your motor never sees north of 212 degrees you would not need to worry about boiling point. This is just to keep the water as the most efficient Btu transfer medium from the block to the plumbing to the radiator as possible. The transfer from water/steam in the radiator is what determines the heat capacity of the system or in other words howhot your motor will run. (Not counting the contribution of the thermostat).
Water Wetter only helps the efficiency of BTU transfer from solid (block) to liquid (water in system) back to solid (radiator) to air.
#18
Safety Car
ABOUT RED LINE WATERWETTER® COOLANT ADDITIVES
Reduces or eliminates bubbles or vapor barrier that form on hot metal surfaces to reduce coolant temperatures by up to 20°
Superior heat transfer properties compared to glycol-based antifreeze
Compatible with new or used antifreeze (including DEX-COOL and long-life versions) to improve the heat transfer of ethylene and propylene glycol systems
Improves heat transfer and reduces cylinder head temperature
Designed for use with all modern aluminum, cast iron, copper, brass and bronze cooling systems
Cleans and lubricates water pump seals
Reduces cavitation and complexes with hard water to reduce scaling
Does not lower cooling system below the thermostatically-controlled temperature
http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=74&pcid=10
Reduces or eliminates bubbles or vapor barrier that form on hot metal surfaces to reduce coolant temperatures by up to 20°
Superior heat transfer properties compared to glycol-based antifreeze
Compatible with new or used antifreeze (including DEX-COOL and long-life versions) to improve the heat transfer of ethylene and propylene glycol systems
Improves heat transfer and reduces cylinder head temperature
Designed for use with all modern aluminum, cast iron, copper, brass and bronze cooling systems
Cleans and lubricates water pump seals
Reduces cavitation and complexes with hard water to reduce scaling
Does not lower cooling system below the thermostatically-controlled temperature
http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=74&pcid=10
#19
Suckin' gas, haulin' ass.
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The cap pressure of 15psi is a gage pressure, so yes, it's 15+14.7(atmospheric, if the water was in your drinking glass). The BP for dexcool is somewhat higher, that's why I wanted to clarify the formula.
The coolant gage in the car is for Dexcool and does not apply if you put pure water in there.
The coolant gage in the car is for Dexcool and does not apply if you put pure water in there.