taken19

Lost my 2005 LS2 on the track last weekend and entertaining the idea of rebuilding this block. Not sure where to start, but I want maximum reliability, not maximum power. If you had $6-7k to spend on a motor and dry sump, what would you get? Please be specific with brand and part number if possible for the following:

Rotating assembly
Valves
Springs
Bore block?
Stroker?
Dry sump
Maybe even new cam suggestions

Any ideas welcome, so post up your favorite wish list!!!

speedmon

Mine hasn't let go yet but I'm planning in advance.
The tuners here on the west coast have all died and vanished.
My dealer currently does all my work, and the folks are very well trained.....and I have never been a dealer service fan.

Here's where I'm going
http://www.superchevyperformance.com...p/19259233.htm

525hp Complete! I think it comes with 2year/50K warranty. The stock one is 3year/100K.
I like warranties!

Install cost is 15.7 hours (fixed from dealer) Yeh! Mine is a direct swap, I don't know about an LS2....but can't be that bad.

Or for $9K you could do the LSX454 620hp but just a long block.

As long as GMPP is making these, I'm going to the dealer.

taken19

Looks like a descent deal, but I really think a dry sump is in my future. Had my eyes on an LS3 dry sump out of a 2012 GS, but it probably won't meet my ultimate goals on the track. I do like having the satisfaction of building myself as well.

Anybody else?

AU N EGL

Put a dry sump on the LS3 may be a very good option

taken19

I currently have an LS2. My 2 options are buy a dry sump LS3 or rebuild LS2 with aftermarket dry sump.

Which would you choose? Most likely about the same price after all is said and done.

AU N EGL

You have the LS2.

Definitely a good dry sump system is a must for track duty.

Reliability is key for track duty.

If you don't go to crazy with the cam, do the rebuild since you have most of the parts.

Few things to consider:

too much cam kills more road course / track duty / race engines.

keep your cam lift UNDER 590, or less. even 580 max lift

smaller cams can have more low end torque for those out of corners and UP to SPEED

Very good beehive springs. double springs are not needed.

Light wt valves are a big plus. Hollow and sodium filled for high rpm use

Time chain dampener helps with the constant on off the throttle.

New injectors and plugs & wires while your at it.

Good Luck

OCCOMSRAZOR

Blew my LS2 up last year. Having a forged LS3 418 built by Nutter Racing Engines, including a 4 stage dry sump (which he manufactures) and a RR cam designed by LG Motorsports. Probably will have $10K in it by the time everything is done. Should engine dyno at 650 hp.

If the LS2 had not blown up, I was going to rebuild with forged internals and a 4" stroke for a 402. If you decide to stroke your motor, don't go crazy. Keep the stroke less than or equal to the bore size.

Good luck!

taken19

Would you mind sharing your cam specs? My motor was originally built for the drag strip but later fell in love with the road course. My current cam is 230/234 .598/.612 114+2 LSA, which does not seem ideal for the road course.

AU N EGL

10K is not bad at all.

LG keeps his race cam specs close to the chest.

taken19

Any suggestions for a good RR cam? Sounds like .580-.600 lift max, but what about duration? My car will be street driven as well, so I'm thinking low 230's duration. Maybe I will have Patrick G spec one out for me.

bosco022

Maybe one of Schwanke's LS2 short blocks with forged H beam rods and forged pistons
@ 3999, a road race cam he suggests as he has LOTS of experience with road race motors.

If your heads (243/799) are still useable, send them to someone like AI, for a good cnc port job and valve job. about 1000-1200

We have had good luck road racing with the combo pressure pump and single or dual stage dry sump system. ARE and AVIAD have this

stock rockers with the trunion upgrade work fine

we just had a lifter failure on one of ours, gonna upgrade to Crane's billet type


At about 10.5 to 11 to 1 comp I am thinking 525 plus reliable HP at the flywheel

taken19

Great data! Any need for a forged crank or is my stock LS2 work? What about oversize bore or stroked crank?

My current heads were already ported by AI, sending them back tomorrow for inspection and rework. Current motor had 485 rwhp, about 550 crank Hp. Probably time to dial down a bit, at least in terms of the cam.

AU N EGL

Too much. .580-.590 max

Keep duration 224-230 with 112

lower end torque


243 heads do not flow much about 580 anyway, so why have a lift up there?

taken19

Got it, thanks. Now we are getting somewhere!! Now the question of bore and stroke... What is the best blend of power and reliability?

bosco022

More cubes are always effective, especially in road racing where torque is key. I was suggesting Schwanke's LS2 short block for its' cost effectiveness. A forged crank is preferrable, but probably not necessary if you are gonna keep revs at 7000 or under. Adding something like the Callies Compstar crank would probably add 500-600 bucks.

The carb Schwanke LS1 we just replaced (with a new Schwanke LS6 383) was crazy torquey with a 5.7 with the unported truck 706 heads with the small intake valve and a 580 lift mid 230's duration and 113 LSA.
Compression was about 11 to1 and it only like to rev to 6500 with the small heads but the torque made the car super fast. 182 at Daytona and a 1:56.9 lap time. (Howe/Bemco tube camaro). We ran that motor for 2 1/2 years and thought we should tear it down. We did and there was nothing wrong with it. It is now a spare.

Build a good torquey motor, and at least add the scavenge/dry sump system, keep the revs down and have fun.

AU N EGL

DAMN Very Cool Bosco

yah happen to have an video of that beast ????

bosco022

From last year at Daytona with partner Squeak's Kid driving.
I think you have seen this one.

Had the Monte Carlo body then.

We will run it at the Crane Cams V8SC race at Daytona in May with CFR
SCCA. Will have the new 383 in it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HEdPp...eature=related

waddisme

Here is what I did when my sc LS6 went:

Aluminum LS2, MS3 cam Texas-Speed 5641.2
Heads patriot 2015 (jegs) 1364.16
NGK T55 plugs MSD 8.5 wires TSP 64
Iwis timing chain scroggin dickey 43
FAST 800
Battery 85.59
Belt & Fluids 94
Vararam w/power duct 326
Jeff - labor for swap 1435
9852.95

Sold sc for $4,000, heads and block for $1,100. Motor made 450+ rwtq and has 22k mi and still running strong. This is my top speed at Daytona before I ran out of ***** and brakes:

[IMG][/IMG]

taken19

Do you by chance have cam specs? It's pretty evident to me now that a "mild" drag strip cam is still too aggressive for the road course. I'm gonna have to do some digging regarding good RR cam specs that produce good power and torque while still delivering solid reliability.

Thanks for your input.

Black89Z51

I would rebuild the LS2, but with LS3 heads shaved to bring back compression. Also the LS3 intake to match. With a mild cam, you will be at 470-500 rwhp (depending on the cam) and damn reliable.