BBagman

Wondering what the the best clutch for racing an 84 C4 might be? Must use stock flywheel, stock like clutch... Something lighter then stock with good bite and longevity.

Thanks bagman

Rob31

What kind of racing ? What mods have you done already ?

jaa1992

Lemmee guess - trying to stay in stock class for NCCC??????

Any stage 1 or street clutch meets the intent of the rules.

Flywheel must weigh the same as the stock flywheel, so you are looking for a steel replacement.

Now if you don't care about those things the options are nearly endless.

BBagman

Road racing... engine essentially stock,headers, mild manifold mods,ecu programable. shooting for about 225 rwhp. Must use stock flywheel.. looking for a lighter than stock pressure plate and clutch.can be puck type clutch (preferably sprung).A good reasonably priced(<$500) clutch.

Crepitus

Canam

Ny car runs a Ram6000 clutch, SFI bellhousing, Hayes flywheel, and a Howe hydraulic throwout bearing. Its an 85 Z51. You can get all these parts from Summit.

I'm very happy with it except the Howe bearing which doesn't fit well and the release point is way too high. (haven't figured that one out yet) The Clutch itself is very stout.

Carolina C4 Racer

Call Tom at Carolina Clutch. He knows his stuff & can help you.
Sorry I don't have his number handy.

USAsOnlyWay

Do you have a pedal stop on it?

If the clutch is mechanically sound and you have a high release, just adjust the stop so it has a short throw and you can just bounce the clutch for fast shifts.

jaa1992

Yep, thats where I got my stage 2 clutch from.
I got a slightly used single mass to replace my dual mass flywheel.

I can go lighter than stock in my race class so I'm thinking about aluminum flyweel for next season.

BBagman

Has anyone had experience with the Ram801 or Ram851 diaphragm pressure plate? Ram309m clutch? A tech at RAM told me that some of the Grand Am Camaros are running with these...
Bagman

1991Z07

I've been happy with my CenterForce Dual-Friction clutch...

Been in the car for 40k miles since the engine rebuild.

435 FWHP - 535 FWTQ...

Been thrashed on continuously at tracks and AutoX events...

Can't complain when it lasts that long and been abused as much as I have done...

djvett

I used GM replacements and would get 1.5 to 2 years with 2 drivers. They are no longer available and I switched to Centerforce and now I am going on 4 years Lots of NCCC events and track days with 2 agressive drivers. I vote centerforce. I have an 86

rasrboy

with Joe, I have this same set up in my 87 racer. It has an old 70's LT1 carbed motor making 357 RWHP and works great on track or the few times I drive it to club meetings.

My father and I have been using this set up on our C4's for years
and no problems.

Canam

I may try that. The former owner who put the clutch in says there's not enough travel for the release bearing and the only way I can get it is to machine the inside of the housing. I find that weird because its not as though I have anything special, its all regular nornal stuff. This guy who built the car knows quite a bit about cars. Wish I could post some pictures. You'd see whyI say that.
Maybe I'l call Carolina Clutch.

Crepitus

Im pretty sure the 84 L83 uses a different flywheel than the 85 and up L98. 10 1/2" iirc

Canam

My engines not either. Its a Silverado block, edelbrock headed, holley carbed mo fo 355 c.i.

USAsOnlyWay

Canam, I think I know what he is saying... IF I understand correctly.

ZF6 or 4+3?

I have a Howe TOB with the ZF6. There are two version a regular and short (T5) version. If you have the regular height exactly what you say will happen, and not only can that happen but it can actually have too much "preload" such that the clutch fingers are not able to release the PP to fully sandwhich the clutch disk and the clutch is not able to grip and will slip with the clutch all of the way out. Ideally you want right about 0 (+ a bit of space to account for clutch wear, fingers move outward) preload for the TOB to clutch fingers with the HOWE units. This allows enough travel (~0.5") to release the clutch completely (~0.35") without slipping. Alternatively, if you set it too far off the fingers you won't be able to fully release the clutch or it will occur on the bottom of the floor board.

Sounds like too much preload IF I understand correctly.

(P.S. You should have a pedal stop on there regardless, otherwise you are either using the larger TOB and using the floor for a pedalstop (I haven't used it, it does have more travel though) or you are using the retaining ring to prevent over extension and blowing the TOB o-rings as your pedal stop...which, really isn't a long term solution.

On second thought, it could also be too much clearance but only if you have a short throw pedal already. If you are too far away, you can pump the clutch the first time after bleeding and then on the second pump the clutch travel will be shorter as the TOB retracts with the PP fingers pressing on it, so the entire first pump or so will just be taking up the excess clearance. I would suspect a stiff shifting and trouble releasing the clutch could be part of your symptoms in this scenario.

I've gone way off topic here, sorry OP.

Centerforce Dual Friction holding up to 400rwhp/440rwtq here.
84-87 10.5" version.

Canam

oops sorry, I have a T10 4 speed trans. Thats kinda what I meant by a simple setup. Ram 6000 clutch, centreforce pressure plate, SFI bellhousing, Hayes SFI flywheel (steel), Howe slave cylinder and Howe (non race) throw our bearing.

USAsOnlyWay

All the same, just things such as ZF6 bellhousing shims don't apply.

Canam

USA, do you have a part number for that short Howe bearing? I can bounce that off mine and see it I have the thicker one. On full release its hitting the housing and thats my problem. I don't believe it has any shims either. Maybe a simple change to the other bearing would work. Hate removing the torque arm though, its fabbed and a real bitch on this car to re and re.