set sway bars to neutral w/o adjustable end links?
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
set sway bars to neutral w/o adjustable end links?
I'm just thinking here, can you set the sway bars to "neutral" with a person in the drivers seat, as you would with adjustable end-links.
EXCEPT: by using a shim, or shims under the sway bar mounting point to the frame for the appropriate side?
My thought is to remove the mounting bolts on left and right side, and add shim material to the side with space showing so as not to induce any pre-load into the sway bar.
I am interested in a C4, but should transfer to any year Vette.
Should be fairly simple on a lift, with a person in the drivers seat to do so. Am I on the right tack? or must you use end links to accomplish this?
EXCEPT: by using a shim, or shims under the sway bar mounting point to the frame for the appropriate side?
My thought is to remove the mounting bolts on left and right side, and add shim material to the side with space showing so as not to induce any pre-load into the sway bar.
I am interested in a C4, but should transfer to any year Vette.
Should be fairly simple on a lift, with a person in the drivers seat to do so. Am I on the right tack? or must you use end links to accomplish this?
#2
Melting Slicks
That will work. The C4 has an upper and lower half to the front bracket, and you can space the entire bracket from the frame to get the front bar to zero out when you are corner weighting the car..
Frankly, if you are using rubber bushings that clamp hard on the bar, it's less important to zero out the front bar. The reason you want to zero out the front bar on a C5 is that the bars aren't clamped tight and will walk to one side if there is a preload. On a C4 the bars won't move from side to side because they are clamped tight and won't move anyway.
Frankly, if you are using rubber bushings that clamp hard on the bar, it's less important to zero out the front bar. The reason you want to zero out the front bar on a C5 is that the bars aren't clamped tight and will walk to one side if there is a preload. On a C4 the bars won't move from side to side because they are clamped tight and won't move anyway.
Last edited by Solofast; 02-26-2012 at 10:51 PM.
#3
Race Director
I'm just thinking here, can you set the sway bars to "neutral" with a person in the drivers seat, as you would with adjustable end-links.
EXCEPT: by using a shim, or shims under the sway bar mounting point to the frame for the appropriate side?
My thought is to remove the mounting bolts on left and right side, and add shim material to the side with space showing so as not to induce any pre-load into the sway bar.
I am interested in a C4, but should transfer to any year Vette.
Should be fairly simple on a lift, with a person in the drivers seat to do so. Am I on the right tack? or must you use end links to accomplish this?
EXCEPT: by using a shim, or shims under the sway bar mounting point to the frame for the appropriate side?
My thought is to remove the mounting bolts on left and right side, and add shim material to the side with space showing so as not to induce any pre-load into the sway bar.
I am interested in a C4, but should transfer to any year Vette.
Should be fairly simple on a lift, with a person in the drivers seat to do so. Am I on the right tack? or must you use end links to accomplish this?
#5
Race Director
if the bar mounts from the bottom, I could see this working. I can't remember how the c4 bar mounts, but in the C5 the bar mounts front-to-rear, so shimming it forward/rearward would not neutralize the bar since the end links sit up-downward.
I could be mis-understanding, or mis-remembering, but I'd vote for putting an adjustable end on at least one end of each bar. That is the cheap C5/C6 solution,although you have to modify most heims to get them short enough to match the OEM pieces.
I could be mis-understanding, or mis-remembering, but I'd vote for putting an adjustable end on at least one end of each bar. That is the cheap C5/C6 solution,although you have to modify most heims to get them short enough to match the OEM pieces.
#6
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if the bar mounts from the bottom, I could see this working. I can't remember how the c4 bar mounts, but in the C5 the bar mounts front-to-rear, so shimming it forward/rearward would not neutralize the bar since the end links sit up-downward.
I could be mis-understanding, or mis-remembering, but I'd vote for putting an adjustable end on at least one end of each bar. That is the cheap C5/C6 solution,although you have to modify most heims to get them short enough to match the OEM pieces.
I could be mis-understanding, or mis-remembering, but I'd vote for putting an adjustable end on at least one end of each bar. That is the cheap C5/C6 solution,although you have to modify most heims to get them short enough to match the OEM pieces.
#7
Melting Slicks
The C4 mounts are on the bottom of the frame rail, so this would be a very effective way of adjusting out the preload. However, by just putting spacers under the bracket you are also softening the bushing. I would recommend a flat piece of aluminum or something that can go under the entire assembly.
#9
Drifting
Thread Starter
The C4 has an upper and lower half to the front bar bracket, and the original poster is putting shims between those two brackets and the frame. It doesn't effect preload unless you put the shims between the two halves of the bracket. This bracket is different than about any other front bar bracket and it is used to space the bar a few inches below the frame. If you have it apart it will be apparent, and it should work just fine. Hope that makes sense.
Now the "rear" bar is different slightly, would need to use a "plate" type shim with holes for both bolts, it's not a two piece bracket like the front is. But it still mounts from the bottom
I really don't even know if they are off much, or any. But check is as easy as putting it on a lift and un-bolting the brackets.
I was just cleaning up the bushings and re-lubing the poly and thought this might be an idea.