travisnd

I replaced my rear bushings this week because one was getting torn up. I noticed the bushings are lined/impregnated with thread/fabric and lack channels to hold any lubricant. It looks like they should be installed dry and the impregnated fabric does the job?

I had been lubing the old ones and the front bar with teflon grease periodically, but it seems like a waste of time given the nature of the bushings.

Thoughts?

Here's the one that was torn up... driver's side rear...

el es tu

I lube the bushing with a bit of dry graphite lube (the silver powder stuff for locks), then spread dielectric silicone grease (crc), then add more graphite (I also make sure to do the same to the bar). This has worked better than just using the grease alone.

Also I like to run o rings on either side of each bushing to help retain the grease a bit better. The o rings will also let you know if the bar is shifting side to side.

last note - you may want to look into running washers in between the subframe and the the mounting clamps (or tabs whatever theyre called), so the clamp doesnt squish the bushing against the bar. For some reason the bushings for the larger bars are a bit larger than the clamps (its odd but gm only makes 1 size of clamp)

travisnd

Already run two washers ender each end of each clamp.

JohnAlley

Get some of the stuff that Pfadt puts in the box for their sway bars. Not sure what it is but is sticks to everything and really seems to lube up the bushing and bar. Started instasll last night and still have some of the lube on my hands even after using shop hand cleaner.

MongoZ06

Ditto on everything "el es tu" said.

travisnd

That stuff is Devil jizz After installing my Pfadts last winter I had to clean half my tools with laquer thinner.

I'm not really asking for recommendations on which lube to use, but whether or not the OEM T1 bushing is designed to be used w/o any. Most bushings are just rubber on the ID or have grooves to hold in lube, but these are fabric lined/impregnated which seems to make them slick.

Shaka

Did you solve your creeking problem? Why not use solid prothane bushings. You get a slightly higher ARB rate. I used a Mothers rubber and weather seal lube for my boat before because I didnt have anything else. Works fine.

travisnd

I never had a creaking problem I want the rear bar as soft as possible. The T1 bar bushing is much fatter than the standard clamp that comes on the car. It takes 2 washers just to take up the space really.

froggy47

AFAIK all the stock bushings have the same od and different id so make sure you have the right one for the bar. Mine never get that bad. I do lube mine even though they have the fabric whatever it is. I have used 4 ot 5 different lubes. Mostly I think you should do it often & every event is you are doing serious stuff.

Shaka

My bad. It was meant for el es tu.

travisnd

Nope... not for the T1 bars. It's not the OD it's the "backside" of the bushing that sits against the cradle.

froggy47

Hmmmm.

I have used the same metal bracket with different bushings to put c5z, c6z, and T1 bars on my car.

You are saying the metal bracket is different for T1 bars?

By OD I am referring to the D shaped bushing outside measurements.

el es tu

still hunting for the source of the noise. whenever it stops raining out here Ill hopefully get a chance to check more of the suspension out for potentially loose nuts and joints. at this point ive eliminated the shocks as a possibility and am sure its something loose on the driver side.

as far as the prothane bushings go, do they make custom stuff? Im running a zr1 and z06 bar, but havent seen poly offered for either yet.



yep the bushings for the larger bars are larger than they need to be on the outside

froggy47

Do you have a pn for the correct bracket for the t1 bush? Or a measurement vs the stock metal bracket?

el es tu

GM decided to retain the same brackets for all sway bars. For some reason the bushings are made a few mm wider than they need to be.
They fit into the brackets, but once bolted to the subframe, they compress.

I use 4 to 5 mm worth of washers (usually just 2 washers) to space out the brackets.

ErnieN85

I have been using antiseize for lube works great

froggy47

OK, now we are getting down to the crux of it. I used the same bracket on all 3 bar setup's.

I did add the appropriate (different) # of spacers to "float" each bar.

Mystery solved.

Thanks!

Shaka

Something is shifting. If it was serious, it would have broken by now. Like I said, spray everything with your garden hose and go for a drive. If it goes away. Spray separate sections to isolate the source.

It is easy to fabricate a bearing block for your ARB. Cheap replaceable split bushings can be purchased here.

http://www.danaherspecialtyproducts....and_Solutions/

Here is the idea. Make a bunch and sell it to the boys here.

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/269/arbmount.jpg/

For poly bushings, go here.

http://www.mamotorworks.com/corvette...FSIRNAodtnO36A


Rubber bushings don't make any sense to me. There is an awful delay in loading the bar and they wear out in a hurry. A buddy of mine is developing a shock system to eliminate the ARB. Only trouble is various sanctioning bodies may object.

el es tu

thanks for the information. Ill try that!

screw sanctioning bodies, some people just want to have fun in their non classed cars. the mclaren mp412c uses no arb due to the mag shocks and im surprised the corvette hasnt done so yet.

Shaka

Yes, me too. My buddy's involves a pendulum that controls valving on a Magnaflow type shock. As soon as the system is ready, he or I will post it here. You can program it for any track. All forces such as heave, roll, pitch and warp are decoupled.