Bolt size - wheel bearings & caliper bracket?
#1
Race Director
Thread Starter
Bolt size - wheel bearings & caliper bracket?
Anyone know the bolt sizes? I want to order some Nordlock washers. The bolt sizes are not listed in the FSM only torque specs.
Thanks!
Thanks!
#4
Race Director
If you're talking about this caliper bolt:
That bolt has GM part# 14084051 and has a spec of M14x2x47. I believe it's the same bolt that's used on all C5/C6 Vettes.
So, it's got a 14mm diameter shank. The head takes a 21mm wrench, and it's about 23.5mm across the points on the head - so that should help with your washer selection.
The torque spec is 129 lb-ft with blue loctite, and I've never heard of anybody have them back out, so I'm not sure why you need nord lock washers on them
The Service Manual says to use new ones every time, but I've taken the calipers on/off my C6 Z06 many times and use the same bolts time after time. I used to use a brush to remove old loctite and then apply more when reinstalling them, but I don't even bother with that anymore, and I've still got to bang them loose with a dead-blow mallet on my box-end wrench.
Bob
That bolt has GM part# 14084051 and has a spec of M14x2x47. I believe it's the same bolt that's used on all C5/C6 Vettes.
So, it's got a 14mm diameter shank. The head takes a 21mm wrench, and it's about 23.5mm across the points on the head - so that should help with your washer selection.
The torque spec is 129 lb-ft with blue loctite, and I've never heard of anybody have them back out, so I'm not sure why you need nord lock washers on them
The Service Manual says to use new ones every time, but I've taken the calipers on/off my C6 Z06 many times and use the same bolts time after time. I used to use a brush to remove old loctite and then apply more when reinstalling them, but I don't even bother with that anymore, and I've still got to bang them loose with a dead-blow mallet on my box-end wrench.
Bob
#5
Safety Car
Nordlocks allow you to never use Loctite on them again and no risk one will do something stupid like back out. I've been tracking C5s for 10 years now and never replaced a caliper bracket bolt. GM manual says to use new ones because they come from GM with thread locker on them. I have Nordlocks on a bunch of stuff now:
1. Caliper bracket bolts
2. Wilwood adapter studs
3. Hardbar UCA stud kit up front
4. Exhaust manifold to H-pipe bolts (I don't use the OEM studs anymore)
1. Caliper bracket bolts
2. Wilwood adapter studs
3. Hardbar UCA stud kit up front
4. Exhaust manifold to H-pipe bolts (I don't use the OEM studs anymore)
#6
Race Director
Thread Starter
Thanks guys, McMaster-Carr did not have the M12 (wheel bearing) Nordlock, they did have the M14 (calipers) in a 10 pack for $12.
Do you think I could use the 1/2 inch instead of the M12?
http://www.mcmaster.com/#nord-lock-washers/=g39z5s
Do you think I could use the 1/2 inch instead of the M12?
http://www.mcmaster.com/#nord-lock-washers/=g39z5s
#7
Safety Car
I actually just did this last night. My local Fastenal only had the 1/2" ones. I had a swaybar bracket bolt hole strip out so I got a longer bolt and used the 1/2" Nordlock. The bolt for the top part of the swaybar bracket is 12x1.75 as well. The 1/2" Nordlock is a little too big, so you have to pay attention to the alignment of the two halves of the washer as you torque the bolt down. The first time I torqued the bolt the Nordlock camout out of alignment, but I re-did it and got it to stay aligned. Even slightly misaligned the Nordlock "popped" when I loosened it to re-do it (meaning it was working). If you had the proper M12 Nordlock it would fit around the bolt such that it couldn't come out of alignment. Follow me?
#8
Race Director
Thread Starter
I actually just did this last night. My local Fastenal only had the 1/2" ones. I had a swaybar bracket bolt hole strip out so I got a longer bolt and used the 1/2" Nordlock. The bolt for the top part of the swaybar bracket is 12x1.75 as well. The 1/2" Nordlock is a little too big, so you have to pay attention to the alignment of the two halves of the washer as you torque the bolt down. The first time I torqued the bolt the Nordlock camout out of alignment, but I re-did it and got it to stay aligned. Even slightly misaligned the Nordlock "popped" when I loosened it to re-do it (meaning it was working). If you had the proper M12 Nordlock it would fit around the bolt such that it couldn't come out of alignment. Follow me?
I may just go with the blue locktight. Seems weird not to have that (fairly common) metric size?
#9
Safety Car
If you're talking about this caliper bolt:
The torque spec is 129 lb-ft with blue loctite, and I've never heard of anybody have them back out, so I'm not sure why you need nord lock washers on them
The Service Manual says to use new ones every time, but I've taken the calipers on/off my C6 Z06 many times and use the same bolts time after time. I used to use a brush to remove old loctite and then apply more when reinstalling them, but I don't even bother with that anymore, and I've still got to bang them loose with a dead-blow mallet on my box-end wrench.
Bob
The torque spec is 129 lb-ft with blue loctite, and I've never heard of anybody have them back out, so I'm not sure why you need nord lock washers on them
The Service Manual says to use new ones every time, but I've taken the calipers on/off my C6 Z06 many times and use the same bolts time after time. I used to use a brush to remove old loctite and then apply more when reinstalling them, but I don't even bother with that anymore, and I've still got to bang them loose with a dead-blow mallet on my box-end wrench.
Bob