Rear LCA poly bushing install solution
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
Rear LCA poly bushing install solution
So during my poly bushing install I was having problems getting the rear lower control arm bushings in. Using a vise was useless. Using a press was difficult. I read a few people cutting them in half...
A co-worker suggested using a threaded rod and a few nuts and assorted washers.
3/4 inch rod from homedepot
3 nuts
assorted washers
and it worked like a champ. Slide right all. All 3 bushings in 10 min.
A co-worker suggested using a threaded rod and a few nuts and assorted washers.
3/4 inch rod from homedepot
3 nuts
assorted washers
and it worked like a champ. Slide right all. All 3 bushings in 10 min.
#2
Race Director
That is very similar to what I used on fronts.
Since then I have been "educated" by some of the top guys on this forum, that if the poly's go in THAT HARD you really should open the hole in the arm or shave the bushing down for an easier fit.
If it's jammed in too tight, the poly distorts & can bind, last thing you want suspension to do.
There are some threads that discuss this. The GM tolerances on the arms vary some, since when they put rubber in a few thou difference does not matter.
Since then I have been "educated" by some of the top guys on this forum, that if the poly's go in THAT HARD you really should open the hole in the arm or shave the bushing down for an easier fit.
If it's jammed in too tight, the poly distorts & can bind, last thing you want suspension to do.
There are some threads that discuss this. The GM tolerances on the arms vary some, since when they put rubber in a few thou difference does not matter.
#4
Pro
Thread Starter
That is very similar to what I used on fronts.
Since then I have been "educated" by some of the top guys on this forum, that if the poly's go in THAT HARD you really should open the hole in the arm or shave the bushing down for an easier fit.
If it's jammed in too tight, the poly distorts & can bind, last thing you want suspension to do.
There are some threads that discuss this. The GM tolerances on the arms vary some, since when they put rubber in a few thou difference does not matter.
Since then I have been "educated" by some of the top guys on this forum, that if the poly's go in THAT HARD you really should open the hole in the arm or shave the bushing down for an easier fit.
If it's jammed in too tight, the poly distorts & can bind, last thing you want suspension to do.
There are some threads that discuss this. The GM tolerances on the arms vary some, since when they put rubber in a few thou difference does not matter.
And cheap too! $10 in parts from homedepot!
#7
Le Mans Master
Looks like the Pfadt kit.
I've never had an issue using my crappy Harbor Freight press. The bushing does try to squirm around and pop out, but I've found that it's best to go as fast as possible. Just getting it started is the hardest part. Once it is started, it'll push right in.
I've never had an issue using my crappy Harbor Freight press. The bushing does try to squirm around and pop out, but I've found that it's best to go as fast as possible. Just getting it started is the hardest part. Once it is started, it'll push right in.
#8
Safety Car
Yep... hard to get the bushing lip started into the arm w/o it wanting to move around. I'm sure the stability of the press, the press fixture and whatever you're using to support the control arm play a big role in how this goes. My buddy's was the el cheapo harbor freight and it was a bit wobbly... lots of trial and error
#9
Race Director
See how hard/easy it is to install. If it goes in ok by hand then you are probably fine.
If you have to cram it in/ pry it in/ force it in then you are likely going to have bind.
Make sense?
Lube with some good sticky lube that won't run/wash off.
#10
So during my poly bushing install I was having problems getting the rear lower control arm bushings in. Using a vise was useless. Using a press was difficult. I read a few people cutting them in half...
A co-worker suggested using a threaded rod and a few nuts and assorted washers.
3/4 inch rod from homedepot
3 nuts
assorted washers
and it worked like a champ. Slide right all. All 3 bushings in 10 min.
A co-worker suggested using a threaded rod and a few nuts and assorted washers.
3/4 inch rod from homedepot
3 nuts
assorted washers
and it worked like a champ. Slide right all. All 3 bushings in 10 min.
#11
Pro
Thread Starter
agreed
Looks like the Pfadt kit.
I've never had an issue using my crappy Harbor Freight press. The bushing does try to squirm around and pop out, but I've found that it's best to go as fast as possible. Just getting it started is the hardest part. Once it is started, it'll push right in.
I've never had an issue using my crappy Harbor Freight press. The bushing does try to squirm around and pop out, but I've found that it's best to go as fast as possible. Just getting it started is the hardest part. Once it is started, it'll push right in.
Look to be the Pfadts. The one piece bushings can be a bear to get started because you're forcing the outer lip through the ID of the control arm.
Yep... hard to get the bushing lip started into the arm w/o it wanting to move around. I'm sure the stability of the press, the press fixture and whatever you're using to support the control arm play a big role in how this goes. My buddy's was the el cheapo harbor freight and it was a bit wobbly... lots of trial and error
Yep... hard to get the bushing lip started into the arm w/o it wanting to move around. I'm sure the stability of the press, the press fixture and whatever you're using to support the control arm play a big role in how this goes. My buddy's was the el cheapo harbor freight and it was a bit wobbly... lots of trial and error
#12
Pro
Thread Starter
It depends on the fit. Think about it. The small part of the bushing the remains outside of the arm hole is going to contact the mounting "slot" (technical term) It needs to move but not be loose as suspension travels, right?
See how hard/easy it is to install. If it goes in ok by hand then you are probably fine.
If you have to cram it in/ pry it in/ force it in then you are likely going to have bind.
Make sense?
Lube with some good sticky lube that won't run/wash off.
See how hard/easy it is to install. If it goes in ok by hand then you are probably fine.
If you have to cram it in/ pry it in/ force it in then you are likely going to have bind.
Make sense?
Lube with some good sticky lube that won't run/wash off.
Were you talking about shaving the ears down? Or opening the control arm up?
And I have that dang lube on everything. I will be throwing away a shirt and pants shortly...lol..I also added zerk fittings and got a tube from summit for the grase gun!
There is a small gap, less than an 1/8 of an inch, between the bushing ears and the control arm. I don't have a feeler gauge at the house, so I did not measure it. But, from kentucky windage, it looked ok
#13
Le Mans Master
WD-40 will clean it right up though.
#14
Racer
#15
Race Director
ok.. the bushing shall not move in the arm, but pivot on the bolt. If it is to loose, then it can move in the arm. And the "ears" on the rears (read it 4 times and it still don't seem right!) were the hardest part to get through.
Were you talking about shaving the ears down? Or opening the control arm up?
And I have that dang lube on everything. I will be throwing away a shirt and pants shortly...lol..I also added zerk fittings and got a tube from summit for the grase gun!
There is a small gap, less than an 1/8 of an inch, between the bushing ears and the control arm. I don't have a feeler gauge at the house, so I did not measure it. But, from kentucky windage, it looked ok
Were you talking about shaving the ears down? Or opening the control arm up?
And I have that dang lube on everything. I will be throwing away a shirt and pants shortly...lol..I also added zerk fittings and got a tube from summit for the grase gun!
There is a small gap, less than an 1/8 of an inch, between the bushing ears and the control arm. I don't have a feeler gauge at the house, so I did not measure it. But, from kentucky windage, it looked ok
How is the fit of the outside of the bushing to the slot it slips into? Tight/loose/just right?
#16
Pro
Thread Starter
Well.. the ones that had the 2 metal ears in the, required some force to get in.
The would move by hand after I installed them, but the required some force. Not my body weight, but I would guess 20 lbs
#18
Pro
Thread Starter