pfadt poly bushing install question.. extra washers?
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
pfadt poly bushing install question.. extra washers?
I started installing my poly bushings, and with the help of all the postings it has been going well.
However, I have 4 extra flat washers. They are not on the instructions or .gif.
They ARE NOT the D washers that go in the fronts under the retaining clips.
Oh this is for a C5
Any ideas? maybe for c6?
However, I have 4 extra flat washers. They are not on the instructions or .gif.
They ARE NOT the D washers that go in the fronts under the retaining clips.
Oh this is for a C5
Any ideas? maybe for c6?
#2
Drifting
Call:
Jason Lowe
Pfadt Race Engineering
2315 South 2300 West
Salt Lake City, UT 84119
888-972-2464
jason@pfadtracing.com
Great guy! He has my UCA now looking at because of a pesky snap ring issue.
Jim
Jason Lowe
Pfadt Race Engineering
2315 South 2300 West
Salt Lake City, UT 84119
888-972-2464
jason@pfadtracing.com
Great guy! He has my UCA now looking at because of a pesky snap ring issue.
Jim
#3
Pro
Thread Starter
Call:
Jason Lowe
Pfadt Race Engineering
2315 South 2300 West
Salt Lake City, UT 84119
888-972-2464
jason@pfadtracing.com
Great guy! He has my UCA now looking at because of a pesky snap ring issue.
Jim
Jason Lowe
Pfadt Race Engineering
2315 South 2300 West
Salt Lake City, UT 84119
888-972-2464
jason@pfadtracing.com
Great guy! He has my UCA now looking at because of a pesky snap ring issue.
Jim
lol.. Thanks.. did that before I posted.. I left a message.. they are very helpful, just not at work now.. lol
AND NOT THEIR FAULT they are closed and have lives.. just pointing it out
#5
Le Mans Master
If your kit came with the D-shaped washers you need to use them.
The regular washers were from a previous design of the upper pins, but are still included in the kit even though they're not needed. The pins have been upgraded and were designed so that the D-shaped washers do not rotate on the pin whereas the earlier design allowed the washers to rotate.
The regular washers were from a previous design of the upper pins, but are still included in the kit even though they're not needed. The pins have been upgraded and were designed so that the D-shaped washers do not rotate on the pin whereas the earlier design allowed the washers to rotate.
#6
Safety Car
D shaped washer on my Pfadt bushing but I still have the snap ring problem on the front upper control arms. Had the snap rings come off and the bushing push out about 5 times at the track and 3 times on the street. Not great for tire wear to say the least.
ASE master tech couldn't even install the snap ring and have it stay in place. Pfadt sent new parts and they did the same thing. Eventually, the bushing seem to have worn in as they haven't knocked the snap rings off for the last few track days. I still carry a dozen extra snap rings, snap ring pliers, C clamps to compress the bushing back in, and the sockets every where I go.
ASE master tech couldn't even install the snap ring and have it stay in place. Pfadt sent new parts and they did the same thing. Eventually, the bushing seem to have worn in as they haven't knocked the snap rings off for the last few track days. I still carry a dozen extra snap rings, snap ring pliers, C clamps to compress the bushing back in, and the sockets every where I go.
#7
Safety Car
You really have to make sure the snap rings are 100% seated. You have to squeeze the heck out of the bushing and washers with a clamp and really make sure the ring is in properly. It's easy to have it look in, but not be fully seated.
#8
Le Mans Master
One of the engineers at Pfadt recently told me that if you have to compress the bushing to get the snap ring to seat, you should remove the bushing (halves) and shave the ends. He said this eliminates preload on the snap ring.
#9
Safety Car
Did that too. Snap ring seating was not the problem, but preload might be. I'd like to see a larger snap ring and groove.
#10
Race Director
It is beyond me why the groove is so shallow/narrow and the snap ring so small?
Mine is holding after the last time I fixed it. I have preload (lot of compression to get it on.
I always spin the snap ring a bit to prove it is all the way seated, If it does not spin pretty easy, it's not fully seated.
#11
Pro
Thread Starter
If your kit came with the D-shaped washers you need to use them.
The regular washers were from a previous design of the upper pins, but are still included in the kit even though they're not needed. The pins have been upgraded and were designed so that the D-shaped washers do not rotate on the pin whereas the earlier design allowed the washers to rotate.
The regular washers were from a previous design of the upper pins, but are still included in the kit even though they're not needed. The pins have been upgraded and were designed so that the D-shaped washers do not rotate on the pin whereas the earlier design allowed the washers to rotate.
D shaped washer on my Pfadt bushing but I still have the snap ring problem on the front upper control arms. Had the snap rings come off and the bushing push out about 5 times at the track and 3 times on the street. Not great for tire wear to say the least.
ASE master tech couldn't even install the snap ring and have it stay in place. Pfadt sent new parts and they did the same thing. Eventually, the bushing seem to have worn in as they haven't knocked the snap rings off for the last few track days. I still carry a dozen extra snap rings, snap ring pliers, C clamps to compress the bushing back in, and the sockets every where I go.
ASE master tech couldn't even install the snap ring and have it stay in place. Pfadt sent new parts and they did the same thing. Eventually, the bushing seem to have worn in as they haven't knocked the snap rings off for the last few track days. I still carry a dozen extra snap rings, snap ring pliers, C clamps to compress the bushing back in, and the sockets every where I go.
I hope I don't have this issue
I only had to do that with 1 of them. Otherwise a few taps on a screwdriver with a hammer seated them just fine.
Thanks for the posts, I figured as much. I got the fronts done, waiting on hubs now, and will get the rears done this week
#12
Safety Car
Good to know... if I ever do another set I'll pay attention to that. I've had mine in for 7 or 8 TimeTrial/Race weekends with NASA and haven't had any issues. I do check them as part of my pre-event prep.
#13
Le Mans Master
I think the ultimate solution would be to have the 2 halves of the pin thread together inside the bushing and have the large flange on both sides of the bushing.
BTW - I had to buy a pack of 50 snap rings just to get one. So, if anyone needs one, I can stick it in an envelope.
#14
Race Director
Mine lasted a year and a half before popping out.
I think the ultimate solution would be to have the 2 halves of the pin thread together inside the bushing and have the large flange on both sides of the bushing.
BTW - I had to buy a pack of 50 snap rings just to get one. So, if anyone needs one, I can stick it in an envelope.
I think the ultimate solution would be to have the 2 halves of the pin thread together inside the bushing and have the large flange on both sides of the bushing.
BTW - I had to buy a pack of 50 snap rings just to get one. So, if anyone needs one, I can stick it in an envelope.
#16
Hey guys! Just to provide some concrete answers here:
1. Use the D Shaped Washers that are supplied with the kits. The traditional O washers may also be packaged in with your kits and will be extra. No need to use those!
2. Because of tolerance of the ID of the control arm bores it may be required to remove a little bit of material from the poly it's self. If you run into a pickup point with a tighter bore it will squeeze (for lack of better term) the poly out just a bit, and in some cases to the point where it doesn't allow the snap ring to easily be installed into the groove. If it requires a C Clamp, vise grips or other mechanical means to compress everything into place before the snap ring will seat in the groove you can remove some material from the inside face of the poly bushings to eliminate some of the preload on the snap ring. Removing some material should keep the 2 bushings from touching each other and forcing the snap ring out of it's groove. This is only a real issue on the Front Upper control arm bushings because they take a lot of the braking forces seen at the chassis, but the same idea can be applied at any point where a 2 piece bushing is used.
Let us know if you've got any questions, we are always here to help!
1. Use the D Shaped Washers that are supplied with the kits. The traditional O washers may also be packaged in with your kits and will be extra. No need to use those!
2. Because of tolerance of the ID of the control arm bores it may be required to remove a little bit of material from the poly it's self. If you run into a pickup point with a tighter bore it will squeeze (for lack of better term) the poly out just a bit, and in some cases to the point where it doesn't allow the snap ring to easily be installed into the groove. If it requires a C Clamp, vise grips or other mechanical means to compress everything into place before the snap ring will seat in the groove you can remove some material from the inside face of the poly bushings to eliminate some of the preload on the snap ring. Removing some material should keep the 2 bushings from touching each other and forcing the snap ring out of it's groove. This is only a real issue on the Front Upper control arm bushings because they take a lot of the braking forces seen at the chassis, but the same idea can be applied at any point where a 2 piece bushing is used.
Let us know if you've got any questions, we are always here to help!
#17
Pro
Thread Starter
Hey guys! Just to provide some concrete answers here:
1. Use the D Shaped Washers that are supplied with the kits. The traditional O washers may also be packaged in with your kits and will be extra. No need to use those!
2. Because of tolerance of the ID of the control arm bores it may be required to remove a little bit of material from the poly it's self. If you run into a pickup point with a tighter bore it will squeeze (for lack of better term) the poly out just a bit, and in some cases to the point where it doesn't allow the snap ring to easily be installed into the groove. If it requires a C Clamp, vise grips or other mechanical means to compress everything into place before the snap ring will seat in the groove you can remove some material from the inside face of the poly bushings to eliminate some of the preload on the snap ring. Removing some material should keep the 2 bushings from touching each other and forcing the snap ring out of it's groove. This is only a real issue on the Front Upper control arm bushings because they take a lot of the braking forces seen at the chassis, but the same idea can be applied at any point where a 2 piece bushing is used.
Let us know if you've got any questions, we are always here to help!
1. Use the D Shaped Washers that are supplied with the kits. The traditional O washers may also be packaged in with your kits and will be extra. No need to use those!
2. Because of tolerance of the ID of the control arm bores it may be required to remove a little bit of material from the poly it's self. If you run into a pickup point with a tighter bore it will squeeze (for lack of better term) the poly out just a bit, and in some cases to the point where it doesn't allow the snap ring to easily be installed into the groove. If it requires a C Clamp, vise grips or other mechanical means to compress everything into place before the snap ring will seat in the groove you can remove some material from the inside face of the poly bushings to eliminate some of the preload on the snap ring. Removing some material should keep the 2 bushings from touching each other and forcing the snap ring out of it's groove. This is only a real issue on the Front Upper control arm bushings because they take a lot of the braking forces seen at the chassis, but the same idea can be applied at any point where a 2 piece bushing is used.
Let us know if you've got any questions, we are always here to help!
Thanks! Got the message this morning as well.
#19
Hey guys! Just to provide some concrete answers here:
1. Use the D Shaped Washers that are supplied with the kits. The traditional O washers may also be packaged in with your kits and will be extra. No need to use those!
2. Because of tolerance of the ID of the control arm bores it may be required to remove a little bit of material from the poly it's self. If you run into a pickup point with a tighter bore it will squeeze (for lack of better term) the poly out just a bit, and in some cases to the point where it doesn't allow the snap ring to easily be installed into the groove. If it requires a C Clamp, vise grips or other mechanical means to compress everything into place before the snap ring will seat in the groove you can remove some material from the inside face of the poly bushings to eliminate some of the preload on the snap ring. Removing some material should keep the 2 bushings from touching each other and forcing the snap ring out of it's groove. T
Let us know if you've got any questions, we are always here to help!
1. Use the D Shaped Washers that are supplied with the kits. The traditional O washers may also be packaged in with your kits and will be extra. No need to use those!
2. Because of tolerance of the ID of the control arm bores it may be required to remove a little bit of material from the poly it's self. If you run into a pickup point with a tighter bore it will squeeze (for lack of better term) the poly out just a bit, and in some cases to the point where it doesn't allow the snap ring to easily be installed into the groove. If it requires a C Clamp, vise grips or other mechanical means to compress everything into place before the snap ring will seat in the groove you can remove some material from the inside face of the poly bushings to eliminate some of the preload on the snap ring. Removing some material should keep the 2 bushings from touching each other and forcing the snap ring out of it's groove. T
Let us know if you've got any questions, we are always here to help!
I have only seen pics of.the Pfadt uca Bushings dogbone.the oem dogbone is steel. Is it possible than the reason for the small snap ring and narrow ring groove is because of strenght difference of steel vs aluminum and not wanting a stress riser in the Pfadt aluminum dogbone? Maybe a solution is to cut the non captured edge of an oem dogbone so a Bushings can slide on yet cut a deeper groove and use a bigger ring? Steel can take more abuse than aluminum. Comments?