daytonayellaz

Ok... where to begin. First, I tried to read here and do a search and found some helpful information. Didnt find all I was looking for though. I prefer to roadrace over autocross. I have some racing background/experience but mostly "Left turn only" stuff at tracks like Winchester, Salem and what was called Indianapolis Race Way Park when I last raced there, Anderson, Angola, Illianna, Rockford etc. I am curious where a particular car I want to build will fall in what class. I have a 2010 grandsport chassis I put up for sale and has not sold.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/auto...very-nice.html

So I want to build a race car. Im thinking about buying a C6 body to put with the chassis. So Im on the fence about just how much "race car" I want it to be. Im really thinking all out race car, but just street legal enough to drive it on the street for the rare occasion. Having said that though, Im also thinking no street time and trailering it to events. Im near Indianapolis and there are some good race tracks and events fairly close by. I would love to hear some opinions based on what I have to work with here and where you would go with this if you were me.

I have been looking at wrecked standard C6's (not Z06 or grandsport) and buying something with a salvage title and selling everything off the car except the body. Then basically using the body and chassis I have now to build a race car. I have determined that Im not spending another dime until I have a concrete plan with which direction to go. This is where Im looking for the help and opinions of other members here. I would also like to know the average cost per race for a day at the track.... tires (more than one race..right?), entry fees, pit passes, fuel, membership fees etc. Just a average I know there is a lot to absorb here, but I would really appreciate some deep thought on this. Im 43 and this will be my last racing venue.... Thanks in advance


Travis

RX-Ben

Since you have a background racing real race cars instead of the rinky dink converted production car silliness that most of us do, you will likely be sorely disappointed.

The project will get expensive quickly and you will be left with an albatross that no one will want to buy.
Buy a real race car, but a C6 body on it, and you will be better off.

Short-Throw

Have you set a budget?

daytonayellaz

Thanks for the reply Its been a good 10 years since I have been behind the wheel of a race car.... I miss it!! It was a progression from racing karts..to minicup cars.. Legends cars, Allison legacy cars. Got some seat time in a ARCA car. I was not some big time racer, sorry if it came across as if this was a step backwards Im sure thats not what you were saying, but wanted to be clear. We hit speeds of close 120mph ( IIRC)on the 1/2 mile high banks of winchester and Salem. Dang that was fun

So are you saying not to try to have the car fit for street duty.... but to buy a C6 body to put on my GrandSport chassis and build a "Race Car" ???

daytonayellaz

Thanks for the reply...and thats a great question! I have not really set a budget. I dont really know what class this theoretical build would fall in yet, so was looking for opinions on that. Then I figured once a class was semi decided on..... I was hoping that a few of you would give me a per event average on costs. I would then see how many events I could afford to attend and weigh it all out to see if Im out of my mind here

RX-Ben

Avoid compromises.

AU N EGL

Less Expensive to BUY the prebuilt race car then make adjustments to your preferences vs build the race car. Especially since you "Got some seat time in a ARCA car"

NASA Mid West or NASA Great Lakes

PTA - Stock corvettes with race safety equipment
ST2 - Most modified corvettes stock HP levels
ST1- Heavily modified corvettes

SU Unlimited and tube frame cars, Speed World Challenge Cars, ARCA and BUSH Road Race Cars.

SCCA

T1 Stock corvettes
SO Modified corvettes


These are rough approximations to cars and classes.

Good Luck

cdbmathews

Build it to SCCA T-1 specs and handsdown you'll have the best combination of value, performance, racing opportunities, resales value, etc.

Short-Throw

Building/buying a car is the cheapest part of this hobby. It's the maintenance that really adds up both in broken parts and consumables. One needs to be careful thinking that once the car is complete, expenses are over...they are just beginning! You mentioned you've raced before so perhaps you already know this.


PM sent.

Mike

AU N EGL

Here you go

http://www.phoenixperformanceinc.com/cars_for_sale.htm

Jason

I would (and probably will soon) buy a tube-frame race car and hang a Corvette or Camaro body on it. Sell your GS and you'll have plenty of money to do this. At least for awhile.

To get a street car to even the most bare bones level of w2w racing requires safety equipment that makes street driving practically impossible.
The cage means most of the interior is gone.
The seat means your 3pt belts are gone, or worthless if you insist on keeping them.
The cage also means you better be wearing a helmet or you will crack your melon the first time you panic stop.
Your race brakes work great at 1000deg. They suck at 65deg.
Yor race tires work great at rubber melting temps. They suck at 65deg.
Your 6pt belts and helmet mean you had better be wearing a HANS if you don't want your neck popping like Dale Sr.
Wearing 6pt harness, helmet and HANS in a caged car mean it is going to take you longer to get out if it catches on fire, so you'll want that firesuit.
Now you're driving down the street with no brakes, no traction, in a loud ****, light clutched bucking beast in full helmet, HANS, and firesuit.
Don't compromise. It's either a street car or a race car.

With your background, get a race car.

daytonayellaz

Thanks, This is good! gives me some comparisons. I just was not sure where to start with this type of racing. I certainly appreciate the help!

This is the kind of advice Im looking for. We all know that racing is a huge money pit thats no secret. But the problem is its like a highly additive drug.... Once you have had a taste, you are hooked! I dont do drugs, but I always here how certain ones after one time use your are addicted. For me this is how it is with racing, and now I have been having with draws for 10 years

Thanks Mike! Received your PM and I will be in touch. Yea, this is why I asked what you guys thought a HONEST average dollar amount per event was... of course barring major catastrophe. I know thats hard to say for sure, but helps to establish a base line of cost to run.

My experience has been "Tires" were always one of the biggest expenses. To run up front you had to keep good tires on the car?? Dont know how many events your getting out of your tires or how expensive they are?

I still have all my Simpson Race gear...Nomex one piece suit, Shoes, Head Sock, Bandit helmet, neck brace, gloves etc. I have my "Racing Communications" Pro car race radio setup (not sure if you guys use these?) I still have my Longacre racing scales, Toe plates, Stagger gauge, Tire pyrometer, Inferred heat gun, air density gauge, caster/camber gauge, stop watches and some other misc. stuff. Then of course..My Grand Sport Chassis. So Im not totally starting from scratch.


Thanks for the link! That looks like Jack Roush in one of those pics?? Ford guy..

daytonayellaz

Ok...Got it! No compromises I think your right and RX-Ben said the same thing. I would probably regret a double duty car. The one thing I did sell just last year that Im going to kick myself for if I move forward is.... My 28' enclosed Haulmark race trailer

AU N EGL

That is Joe A. the Owner

daytonayellaz

ooops! I zoomed in and could see thats not jack.... Sorry Joe!

Short-Throw

Again, it depends on how competitive you want to be. Some run new tires everyday, some until there's a hangar sticking out of them. If you run up front with crappy tires your last name is either O'Connell (or Popp ) or your competition sucks.

Tire life depends on which tracks you run, your driving style and traffic. Remember. that's tire life, not how long a tire will be super sticky for.

Cost will vary depending on what you run (and what the race class allows). Michelin A6s will run you approx $1400 (including mounting and balancing), Michelin Slicks will be over $2K (super sticky qualifiers).

davidfarmer

I'm sorry, but unless you enjoy "spec" racing in soft race cars, T1 is not the place to go.

Find a C6 frame, put a Cage in it, body it with a Z06 style body (Carbon if you can afford it), and run it is ST2/ST1/SU depending on your desired power/weight goals.

Power isn't a big deal, but having good brakes, good suspension, and some aero go a long way towards having a fun, reliable race car.

racerwannabe

sell all you have now,,buy what your money will let you.that is ready to race..then the expensive part starts..

been where you are,,car is now for sale...

Johnny

daytonayellaz

Ok... so tell me more please! I dont have a clue what each class rules are. This type of racing is new to me. Is there some where I can see side by side comparisons of the different cars for the different classes? Any videos out there of these cars running some races?

I have been away from racing 10+ years now and it seems like an eternity. Im a little embarrassed to ask so many questions, but I would rather humble myself and ask questions and actually make it to the race track.

daytonayellaz

Johnny... you built a race car? or bought one ready to go? What class do you run? Why is your car for sale?