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1st Blackstone analysis not too good - thoughts?

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Old 10-25-2011, 08:51 AM
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waddisme
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Default 1st Blackstone analysis not too good - thoughts?

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Block is aluminum, so maybe that could account for the higher aluminum readings? YTs were just installed in Feb, but do not know if they have titanium, will have to research. Didn't see anything else in build that mentioned titanium. I was running Amsoil 20/50 so it could be residual from that. I will check with Subdriver on that.

I guess an oil change is in order. I have added 7 qts now since last oil change. Between oil cooler, lines, and accusump I am up to 12 1/2 qts per oil change at $110/case.

Thoughts?
Old 10-25-2011, 09:29 AM
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VetteDrmr
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#1: Was the 7 additional quarts what you replaced due to consumption? If so that sure seems high.
#2: Aluminum shouldn't be coming from the block, except maybe the oil pump. Cylinders are steel lined, cam, crank, rods all have bearings, etc.

Titanium? Perhaps valve keepers?

Good luck, I'm in the middle of a rebuild after spinning my #3 rod bearing.

Have a good one,
Mike
Old 10-25-2011, 11:27 AM
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Sidney004
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For 7000 miles of use, 513 RWHP including track time, that's nothing to be alarmed about. Ignore the copper, all LS's shed this. The titanium is puzzling, have you been using Amsoil for more than the last 2 oil changes? The titanium looks like a legitimite wear item. The sodium used to almost always be indicative of coolant but nowadays is a common oil additive. The aluminum, iron and lead seem reasonable to me. Viscosity, fuel and insolubles are all fine. Are you using an EAO filter? Here is my used oil analysis, it on an LT1 with almost half the power though: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...Number=2134493
Old 10-25-2011, 11:40 AM
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Solofast
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Looks like piston and ring wear are your biggest issues.

The biggest contributor to aluminum wear metals is usually piston scuffing. There isn't any other place that would make aluminum in the engine, these aren't chunks, they are microscopic metal that is dissolved in the oil and isn't filtered out in the oil filter. Similar with iron and chrome, both are generally coming from the rings or oil pump gears and since the rings are rubbing a lot more and aren't swimming in oil that's more likely coming from the rings.

Assuming this engine is being used on the track you should expect more wear metals due to the higher speed and piston loads.

I didn't see high silicon or insoubles, so it looks like your air filtration is doing ok. Poor air filtration can commonly result in high wear metal readings do to piston and bore wear. Remember your air filter is the first line of defense for piston and bore wear.
Old 10-25-2011, 12:12 PM
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argonaut
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For reference - I just had my oil tested by Blackstone as well. This is a stock LS6 with about 8500 miles on it. The oil was Amsoil 10W40 that had 6 track days and about 3000 miles on it.
- very little make up oil, maybe 1-1.5 quarts
- Aluminum 4
- Iron 11
- Copper 80 < higher than yours. Blackstone pointed this out as being high
- Titanium 0
- Sodium 5
Old 10-25-2011, 01:46 PM
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AU N EGL
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Change your oil every 1000 miles or less. Use 40wt racing oil or 15-w50 with high zinc for anti-wear

and as Solo has mentioned
The biggest contributor to aluminum wear metals is usually piston scuffing.
aluminum fins in the oil cooler ?

is not high Copper readings related to bearing wear ? or potential bearing failure ?


I also have a 3 qt accu-sump and which holds 11 1/2 qts but I am lucky if I get out 9 qts.

so two 5 qt jugs of M1 15-w50 extended plus one additional quart every two events or 500 miles.

wally world at $22-24 /5 qt jug plus one extra qt and filter $52-53 per change

Last edited by AU N EGL; 10-25-2011 at 01:56 PM.
Old 10-25-2011, 07:44 PM
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JDIllon
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"wally world at $22-24 /5 qt jug plus one extra qt and filter $52-53 per change"

No more 5 QTS Mobil 1 15-50 at Wally World! JD
Old 10-25-2011, 09:31 PM
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travisnd
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FWIW I never bother cracking my oil cooler lines... I just drain/refill and replace the filter every 3 track weekends.
Old 10-25-2011, 09:34 PM
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waddisme
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I cycle thru an extra qt per track day so I did not see a need to change that often. Going to change it now. I have 1 track day left at VIR and if that goes OK, then doing a 2 day thing at Daytona and then may send in another sample at 3500 mi and see if any different. Trying not to read too much into first sample - yet. Thanks.
Old 10-26-2011, 08:28 AM
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Originally Posted by travisnd
FWIW I never bother cracking my oil cooler lines... I just drain/refill and replace the filter every 3 track weekends.
Actually, the Setrab I installed has a drain plug. It is a cross diagonal flow cooler, so for some reason, there is an extra plug. I installed it facing down so I could drain. If it didn't have that, not sure I would crack open lines that don't leak!
Old 10-26-2011, 09:49 AM
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Having a drain plug for the cooler is a pretty good idea
Old 10-26-2011, 12:12 PM
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GMPP just replaced the stock LS2 in my '06 C6. 26K miles. R888s and suspension mods. See if you can borrow a data logger for oil pressure... mine was dropping in to the teens around the long lefthand turn 2 at Thunderhill.

I'm now trying to decide between a dry sump or never putting the LS2 on track again... the former seems more likely than trying to put the C6 back to stock... might depend on how my RX-7 drives now that it's nearly completed.
Old 10-27-2011, 07:43 AM
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AU N EGL
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Originally Posted by JDIllon
"wally world at $22-24 /5 qt jug plus one extra qt and filter $52-53 per change"

No more 5 QTS Mobil 1 15-50 at Wally World! JD
I just bought 4 last month. Better go get more.
Old 10-27-2011, 10:46 AM
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Rob Willis
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Originally Posted by AU N EGL
I just bought 4 last month. Better go get more.
Yeah, don't ever see the 15w50s at our local Walmarts in Ohio either anymore.

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