pabsy

Hi All

Building a chromoley tube chassis street car with a mid-mounted brand new LS9 and have a couple questions for those in the know!

We're looking at the twin oil tanks and trying to figure out how they work, specifically we want to replace them with a single 12 qt tank or thereabout

My question are
-does it have to be round?
-does the height of the tank in relation to the height of the motor matter

Thanks Pabsy

Everett Ogilvie

VERY interesting build. Your own design?

Katech added a true dry sump system to the LS7-based motor in my rear-mid engine car, and as far as I know the height of the tank is not too critical; the inlet line for oil returning to the tank is at the top of the tank at about intake manifold height, and the outlet from the tank appears to be near equal height to the dry sump pan height. Maybe Jason will chime in on this.

Eric D

Short-Throw

Do you want to put in a bladder and dry break?

pabsy

I want to keep it simple yet upgradable, what the alternative to a bladder, foam or baffling? on the dry break thinking screw on that can accept a dry break or vice versa would be great
I'm looking to have a single mounting plate with a wet bosch 044 and incorporate a filter / filler / outlet / vent and return / electrical
Basically one drop in ractrack plate with everything on it if that is actually possible..

Not really too familiar with the LS and LS9 and would appreciate thoughts for any other 'must have' tanks and 'desirable to have' tanks be they for breathers, catch, water oil gas air or nitrous!! ?
There will be a mix-and-match system behind the bulkhead

everett, yes! i'm an engineer but i'm a bike guy and they are way simplerand tighter so need plenty of knowledge- help building this puppy

Eric D

What state are you building this in?

I expect you are tig welding this? What type of filler rod? Is it 4130 tubing?

RichieRichZ06

That looks like fun

parkerracing

Dry sump tanks are available in as many sizes/shapes as there are manufactures. Look at the area you're planning to mount it in and start designing from there. You should be thinking about baffles in any case. The purpose is to reduce airation in the bottom of the tank so you're syphoning oil and not air.

pabsy

exactly, i'm not really buying the round tank aeration principle although it may have some small effect,
for starters in can only effect the portion of the tank that isn't full of oil at the top ie above the oil level
then, unless the entire tank is spinning shooting oil tangentially into the side is going to slow in a hearbeat and have a very modest effect
lastly the effect it has it where you need it the least ie at the top

No, i think what more important is the length of the tank, think of a ping pong ball in a tub, its easy to sink it an inch harder to sink it a foot, ie the longer the tank the harder it is for an airbubble to get to the bottom
Bottom line were going with a tank that fits the packaging requirements, with the only major functional requirement is that is be tall but i'd welcome someone pointing out why i'm wrong as i dont want to make an expesnive mistake!

0Randy@DRM

Gravity is how they work. Nothing else to it really. Keep the oil level above the "in" and let the spin of the earth take care of the rest.

Round is more traditional but square isn't out of the question. Tall skinny for the packaging. Short and fat for the weight placement. How big of a spot do you have?

Baffling, air separators, are a completely other subject. But needs to work or else no more LS9 Tanks that work are easily bought.

Nice build!!!

Randy

0Randy@DRM

This is the guy to explain the twin stock tank.

69427

Looks like a neat project! If I'm not being too nosey, may I ask what transmission you're using, and what bodywork you've got planned?

parkerracing

Air bubbles are not a big problem by themselves...unless there are alot of them, Then the oil turns to foam. Thats what you're protecting against. One snowflake is never to blame for the avalanche.

TLGunman

Looks like a Mendeola gearbox from that angle.

pabsy

no not nosey at all! yup its a mendi, will probably do a couple different body styles

one of the body styles we're considering is a respectful homage to the vette, a mid engine version! what do you guys think about that?

the goals is under 2100lb 745hp, full ground effect underfloor, adjustable front and rear wings, adjustable traction control...

back to the tanks design as i'm not that familiar with these motors, what other tanks should i design into the system apart from gas and oil, this question would go for a stock vette a zri and even a race vetter or heavily modded motor? i was thinking of leaving space for water, catch tanks, compressed air or nitrous, even the wiper fluid reservoir can go into this area, i know im forgetting something..

Eric D

Apart from the engine cooling system, a separate one for the supercharger air charge cooler.

Might want to make use of the moly tubing to transfer fluid from engine to radiators in place of running separate hoses and lines for added mass reduction.

bb69

Love the build. Your goal for 2100lbs is going to be a tough one. My car weighs 2441 without me but with fluids. Compared to my car, you should be saving 80lbs right off the bat because I am using an iron block. You have a supercharger, but I have a big turbo so those should be similar.

I am using C5 running gear which is actually pretty heavy for a car this size. Your fabricated control arms should be a little less than the cast AL C5 arms.

I used a fair amount of steel in my chassis and could probably pull some weight out there, but not 300lbs. Of course, you said you were using chromoley so that alone has the ability to save a bunch of weight. Have you started a weight spreadsheet?

I am interested to see how much the transaxle weighs compared to my A4/diff combo.

Don't get me wrong, I think it can be done and your budget is a lot higher than mine was. I was just surprised by how quickly the weight added up on mine.

Please post more pictures.

Thanks
Ken

Short-Throw

Pabsy,

The main tank being round is important because when the oil flows up through the center it is deposited on the inside of the tank and that acts as a cooler.

The second tank is just a repository so it does not matter what size it is. To expand the oil capacity you can increase the secondary tank depending on what kind of room you can find (fender, etc...) .

Mike