TriplBlk

I have a Centerforce clutch I just had installed and it's literally ONLY been broken in. It's heavier than what I wanted, as I've wanted the lightest setup.i do have Fidanza's Aluminum flywheel. I'm entertaining the idea of getting the clutch I want before my car goes back on the road and I start putting miles on the clutch.

Im thinking a Quartermaster Clutch setup would be what I'm looking for but this car will be street driven. People said Aluminum flywheels were hard to drive...I honestly didn't see anything hard about driving it.


Is there anyone that can help me out? I'd reli like to only spend about 800 on a clutch. Just need to know what to look for and keep an eye out on a used one too.

Something like these?
http://www.quartermasterusa.com/qm/c...all&qm_make=67


Thanks for any help!

wallyman424

good luck driving one of those on the street

KY-Traveler

TriplBlk

Damn that was fast. Thank you guys!

And yea I don't reli know what to look for. I ran into this problem last time and just bought this centerforce clutch.

What do you all recommend? There was an old thread where the guy said he used a quartermaster 8.5 with the rally material for the tolerance of heat?

Any suggestions?

RX-Ben

The Pfadt/QM clutch might survive on the street. My 7.25" QM did not last long in occasional traffic towing a little tire trailer (guessing warped floater- it will not shift at high rpm). Going to an RPS dual billet carbon twin. A little heavier, but the carbon friction surfaces should last a bit longer.

Jason

I thought a Spec3 with alum flywheel was tolerable. all depends on what you're willing to live with and your definition of street driving.

Blue 92

I have Jason's 03 convertible and the clutch / flywheel setup is fine on the street. The wife even drives it on occasion with no problems.

TriplBlk

Sorry for not getting back earlier guys the ladies have been keeping me away

You mean the $2700 setup
I am looking for the lightest possible setup and by street driving I mean the occasional store trip, and traffic jam on a road trip. That's about it. This car isn't my DD

I dont let anyone reli drive my car lol so I don't mind if it's reli hard to drive. It takes getting use to driving with the Harrop and the light flywheel, so I'm not worried about any harder drivability.


Thanks guys
Btw. Vendors are welcome. If you could please include the entire setups weig that would be ideal too

BQuicksilver

I have an aluminum spec 3+ that I do drive in town. It can handle it, no question. Is it as easy/fun to drive on the street? No, the car is certainly happy to bog much easier, and the pedal is fairly heavy. The wife won't get near it, and she can drive a stick. That said, if you're used to it you CAN slip the clutch.

Really the main issue is taking off from a stop. Once you're moving it's just a heavy pedal but fine, and way more fun to heel-toe.

TriplBlk

Is that a very light clutch or something? I'm looking for an entire assembly(clutch+Flywheel) to be about 25lbs. How about this setup?

http://www.texas-speed.com/p-2470-sp...02-f-body.aspx

More than what I want to spend but again, I want the lightest setup I can, that can handle being slipped and about 800-900hp

Is that unrealistic?

Thanks for joining the thread

Jason

Call Spec, tell them what you have and what you're looking for and they can make recommendations.

AU N EGL

What are you guys running in ST2? Spec 3s /

SouthernSon

I had the spec 2+ w/ Al. flywheel. I liked it fairly well and was streetable but it was out of balance from the factory. OEM master cylinder did not work with it. Had to put in a TICK $300 master to make it work. Removed it because of imbalance and put in Quartermaster while I had it all apart. The QM is digital! As soon as the clutch release engages, the clutch has full contact. Thus, with no RPM/mass of flywheel, it dies immediately. One must rev engine, slowly engage and then back in just a little while feathering RPM to get car rolling (slipping, in other words) or car will die. You will have to reprogram engine to idle better or it may die when depressing clutch pedal. Some folks use a winch to load their car after installing whereas they would just drive it on with original clutch. Also, after installing QM, I had to go back to OEM master cylinder. Car is useless for any street driving and is now relegated to track only. I don't even drive it to the gas station to fill up between events anymore. That said, it is great on the track and has picked up considerable power without the heavier clutch package.

hemipanter

I have used all sorts of clutches on the street and the problem is the torque of the engine. If the torque is available from low engine speed does not help either cetriufugal asistans. In order to get enough friction in the clutch we must 1, have high pressure in the pressure plate, or 2, pad on the disc that has more friction, or, 3, more number of discs.

Right now I have a 3000 pounds pressure plate at 11 " and a standard organic disc. It is very heavy for the leg and in spite of this high pressure so it can not handle the torque from the engine. Previously, I had a 2 disc 8" racing clutch with dual diaphragm springs and sinterdiscs, this took care of the torque but was hard on public roads because it was very rough in engagement. These two clutch were extremes in different directions and none of them work well. Then we could use a dubbe organic 10-11 "disc with a more normal hard pressure plate, which should provide with both light pedal pressure and enough friction. The downside for me is that the syncros in the gearbox will take more punishment, and they are terrible expensive in a ZF transaxle.

This is not a specific brand recomendation but more a type of clutch to look for.

RX-Ben

QM.

The above is a pretty accurate description of the QM. You will hate your car unless it is moving. I had it on the street, I would not recommend it. It is not fun, traffic/stop lights/stop signs/pedestrians etc all suddenly become stressful. If you get the steel floaters hot enough (traffic), they will warp. If you are at an uphill stoplight, you will need to light up the rears to get going w/o stalling.

I switched to the lightest, smallest thing I could find with something that loves heat (carbon). Actually, I think the carbon Tilton fits that description, but it is like $5k. The RPS is a close second (25lbs including flywheel, which isn't far off from the QM when you add the flexplate). The main problem with the QM (on the street) isn't the weight or the tiny window of engagement (aka on/off switch), it is the near total lack of friction material. Driveline abuse, stalling, can't handle heat from stop n go driving.

TriplBlk

Will do

So this RPS clutch setup only weighed 25lbs? How much was it, and what power can it hold.

So far with this centerforce clutch and 12lb aluminum flywheel, I can let the clutch out without even having to give it as because of this harrop. I think this intake will give me some leeway with drivability and idc if the car is hard to drive on the street, I just want the clutch to physically be able to hold up to the slipping

RX-Ben

You can get the RPS billet carbon twin for around $2200. Real carbon isn't cheap, but it is way cheaper than the Tilton setup b/c it uses carbon pucks to form a circle as opposed to a continuous piece of carbon. It is also cheaper than regular R&R of an warped QM.
Call up Rob Smith @ RPS to see if it right for you. You can get it with a steel flywheel as well. Rob used to work on the Nissan GTP team.

TriplBlk

Dammmmm. Id have to save for that for a looonnng time lol. Should I assume that for me to find a clutch setup relative to the RPS but for about $1K is unrealistic?

hemipanter

Look for figures showing what the torque clutch can withstand, HP is not really important other than the reverse, or "indirectly" via rpm.

TriplBlk

Any other companies besides RPS? I can't imagine them being the only company producing the lightest street clutches lol.