NASAblue

Does anyone have experience with either product?

I'm looking to heat protect the firewall (overheating bcm in the passenger foot well) and tunnel where the long tubes run and was wondering if anyone had experience with the 1000/400 degree DEI product vs at 2000 degree thermotech.

How well did it work which one worked better?

Thanks

davidfarmer

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DEI-050503/

I've used this product on the fire wall. I didn't measure any temps, but it is a good product. If I remember correctly, the embossed aluminium is slightly rigid which I like.

You are fighting both convective and radiant heat, but I think radiant heat is the primary enemy. Any reflective product (including silver paint) can help a lot. They make spray radiant barriers for attics that should even help.

travisnd

^ I've used that stuff a bunch... it's pricey but it works well and it's easy to work with.

NASAblue

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DEI-010412/

http://www.jegs.com/i/Thermo+Tec/893/13590/10002/-1

I was looking at the products above and was wondering why the thermotech is good to 2000* and the DEI is good to 1000* and only 400* radiant? Visiting the manufacturer websites haven't helped.

Regardless, the one you've recommended seems more appropriate as it's called out for the exact application, and if David Farmer uses it, well, it's good enouigh for me! Still any uses or differences in the products would be helpful.

Any one use the DEI "titanium" exhaust wrap? Supposedly, it doesn't have to be wet to wrap, is more durable, and insulates better:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DEI-010130/

I knew the old autocross and RR forum wouldn't let me down.

davidfarmer

I haven't used that, but I personally don't mind applying header wrap wet (although I don't use it in most cases). I like the tight, custom fit you get applying a wet wrap.

RX-Ben

I used the DEI titanium wrap since I was hoping to cool things down a little bit if I need to get near anything hot after a session.
It goes on relatively easily (get some stainless tie wraps too). I think you need two layers (~50ft per stock manifold). I think it bakes itself on, to some degree, since it smoked a bit for about 10min once I started up the engine.

davidfarmer

If you have never wrapped pipes before, I will warn you that the added heat can damage the tubing. Depends on the type of metal, but I've destroyed at least one set of header by wrapping them. I know you want to keep the heat away from you, but the engine must dissipate heat, and forcing it to stay in the tubing can be more than it can handle.

Just something to keep in mine. Insulating the car can work better than insulating the pipe.

RX-Ben

Yes, definitely.
Swain Tech coating on headers is a way better idea. My understanding is that depending on the metal used in the header, it may be destroyed in less than a year (esp stainless).
I can't coat my headers per class rules and the stock iron manifolds are about that only thing that I would warp.

NASAblue

Thanks, the headers are the old lg pro which were supposedly ceramic coated and have a silver ceramic like appearance, but because I get most things second hand, I don't know if they were properly coated or rattle can coated.

Either way, THe headers aren't wrapped, and I'll take your advice to insulate the car at the tunnel and BCM point. I did wrap the X pipe, cats, and pipes past the transmission. I would like to cover them past the transmission to the mufflers as well with a reflective blanket and radiator clamps, but I too like the results of the tight wet wrap overlapping an inch for double coverage the whole way.

Ever since I put the headers on, my ABS and TCS are defeated and about a million other codes get thrown usually after a couple hours of mild street driving, or by oak tree on vir my dash is blinking beeping and lit up like a christmas tree. Same with summit, can't make it a lap without it going bonkers. I covered the rear mounted ebcm with a starter heat shield (worked well), but the issue still gets me. I'm thinking heat shielding will protect the bcm and keep the tunnel cooler for me in the car. If it solves the ABS issue, great, but I don't expect it. I've just learned to drive without ABS, which has made me better, but, at a certian point, abs is a pretty nice feature when you don't have a custom braking system.

Heck, I'll just drive off the track rather than flat spot them (conditions allowing of course).

Thanks for all the advice on not wrapping the headers, even used old lg pros are still worth a pretty penny.

travisnd

Running TTA I have 100% stock exhaust. I've left the manifolds alone, but I wrapped the h-pipe 100%. Really helps the stock clutch by keeping heat out of the hydraulics. Also keeps the center tunnel cooler.

RX-Ben

Has anyone used one of these? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/THE-16570/

I used this along the tunnel plate, also from Thermo-Tec, and all the reflective material melted off. Smoke in the cockpit...quite worrisome. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/THE-16500/

It is supposed to be good to 1400/2000F. I am hesitant to use the C5-specific part as it also has the mylar facing (which is what melted).

This looks to be the serious stuff (2500F), for Nascar - http://www.koolmat.com/heatmast.shtml

Thanks.

6speedsteve

I just installed one in my 03 coupe, was a little difficult to install with exhaust in the car, but I managed to get it done. All of the holes did not line up properly, but they state you only need 4 per side to hold it in place I removed 8 screws on each side, I did tear a few of the grommet mounts but they said will not be an issue.

I have only made on trip around the block to test, it was 80 outside temp, but was cloudy day, I drove with window down and no air and was really impressed at how comfortable the interior of the car felt, so far I am happy.

I purchased mine from Wicks Aircraft Supply in Illinois and total cost shipped was $248