DRM Cooling Ducts
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
DRM Cooling Ducts
Will be starting the install of DRM cooling ducts on my 2004 Z06 early next week. Any words of wisdom from those who have completed the task already?
#2
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Location: Charlotte, NC (formerly Endicott, NY)
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You will have to enlarge the holes in the inner fender liner. If you want a cleaner install make yourself a template and use it as a guide when cutting the fiberglass. Use something other than a sabre saw to make the cut so you can control things easier. I was in a hurry and didn't want to spend time running to purchase a tool so used a sabre saw. The holes ended up being a little too large for the ducts so I used some black duct tape to close them and keep a lot of dirt from going into the fascia area.
Bill
Bill
#3
Some other thread recommended using a dremel for the fender cutting. The part that scares the crap out of me is drilling the frame for the bold that holds the Z06 duct in place. I'm not even sure what kind of bold is needed.
#4
Safety Car
Just use a decent size stainless screw and washer. It is only to hold the duct in place, there is very little stress on the screw/duct.
Drilling the frame is just like drilling anything else that is steel, nothing special.
An autobody air cutter works well to cut the fender liner.
You'll need to cut the stock duct and then attach the DRM duct to that. You may need to slice the DRM duct to fit inside (or the other way around, can't remember). Screw these together as well.
This is not a quick install, the first time around.
Drilling the frame is just like drilling anything else that is steel, nothing special.
An autobody air cutter works well to cut the fender liner.
You'll need to cut the stock duct and then attach the DRM duct to that. You may need to slice the DRM duct to fit inside (or the other way around, can't remember). Screw these together as well.
This is not a quick install, the first time around.
#5
#6
Le Mans Master
I roughly cut the hole in the inner fender slightly smaller than needed and opened it up using a half-round hand file.
Wear a long sleeve t-shirt and gloves or you'll be itching for days.
Use a self tapping screw through the duct to attach to frame.
Wear a long sleeve t-shirt and gloves or you'll be itching for days.
Use a self tapping screw through the duct to attach to frame.
#8
Safety Car
Dremmel was the perfect tool for cutting the fender liner. FYI it's fiberglass so wear a face mask and cover your skin or you'll be itching for a few days.
You want to position the duct somewhat low and as far back as possible... push it up against the A-arm and then use a floor jack to lift the suspension slightly to get the hose on. This will get the duct in the correct position so it doesn't get rubbed. You put it in the wrong spot and the inside of the wheel will rub it way more often than it has to and you'll rub through in short order.
You don't have to take the bumper off, but on my current car I had it off and it made the install infinitely easier than on my old Z06 fishing through the bumper close-out panels. I used Gorilla tape to cover the joints and the band clamps etc.
A few pics:
You want to position the duct somewhat low and as far back as possible... push it up against the A-arm and then use a floor jack to lift the suspension slightly to get the hose on. This will get the duct in the correct position so it doesn't get rubbed. You put it in the wrong spot and the inside of the wheel will rub it way more often than it has to and you'll rub through in short order.
You don't have to take the bumper off, but on my current car I had it off and it made the install infinitely easier than on my old Z06 fishing through the bumper close-out panels. I used Gorilla tape to cover the joints and the band clamps etc.
A few pics:
#9
You'll need to cut the stock duct and then attach the DRM duct to that. You may need to slice the DRM duct to fit inside (or the other way around, can't remember). Screw these together as well.
#10
Safety Car
I'd like to add:
1) make sure that your tubing is long enough/has enough slack. Even a hit of tight ness means the tubing won't last. More is better.
2)Once everything is together, it's very important to leave AMPLE slack in the wheel speed sensor wire when you re-route it (zip tie to the suspension). Check slack on both sheels with the steering wheel turned full lock.
1) make sure that your tubing is long enough/has enough slack. Even a hit of tight ness means the tubing won't last. More is better.
2)Once everything is together, it's very important to leave AMPLE slack in the wheel speed sensor wire when you re-route it (zip tie to the suspension). Check slack on both sheels with the steering wheel turned full lock.
#11
Safety Car
I'd like to add:
1) make sure that your tubing is long enough/has enough slack. Even a hit of tight ness means the tubing won't last. More is better.
2)Once everything is together, it's very important to leave AMPLE slack in the wheel speed sensor wire when you re-route it (zip tie to the suspension). Check slack on both sheels with the steering wheel turned full lock.
1) make sure that your tubing is long enough/has enough slack. Even a hit of tight ness means the tubing won't last. More is better.
2)Once everything is together, it's very important to leave AMPLE slack in the wheel speed sensor wire when you re-route it (zip tie to the suspension). Check slack on both sheels with the steering wheel turned full lock.
2. In my case I wa able to leave the speed sensor very close to the fatory location. I just ran a zip tie around the hose where it attaches to the ECS spindle duct and clipped it to that. It's been fine since I put the car together last summer. You can see it in this picture:
#13
Safety Car
My sensor wire took 2 years to develop a problem--I think hitting a bump started it because the slack was marginal. The other side never did develop a problem. My advice to everyone is to make sure there is ample strain relief on that wire.