Operations

I purchased a new enclosed trailer and will be using a winch to pull the car in. My question is what types/brand of straps are you using to connect under the car?
Thanks

CHJ In Virginia

Go on the Harbor Freight or Northern Tool websites. They have 12FT 7000 LB ratchet straps for about $20 each. Have used my Northern Tool ones for 5+ years without problem. Also get a set of 4 T hooks to lock the strap into the frame in the factory cutouts.

c4cruiser

One of the easiest ways to strap the car in place for an enclosed trailer is to use E-Track. These are metal strips that attach to the floor and crossmembers of the trailer floor. You can tie down the front tires with straps over the tread and you don't have to get under the front of the car. Your trailer shop can install E-Track for you .

At the rear, you can use more E-track or have D-rings installed. Straps are then attached to the D-ring and to a tie-down point on the car. Here's a couple of good sources for tie-downs and E-track:
http://www.snappinturtle.com/
http://www.macscustomtiedowns.com/sc...?idCategory=24

For tie-down straps, there are two values for weights. Straps can be listed as a certain gross weight or working load limit (WLL). A WLL rating is approximately 1/3 the gross rating. So a strap with a 10,000 lb rating has a WLL of about 3300 lbs. A strap with a gross limit of 5000 lbs will have a WLL of about 1670 lbs.

Always get the straps with the highest load limit; IMHO, the 10K gross weight straps (WLL of 3300 lbs) are the ones to have. There is not a lot of difference in price between the two.

Corvee

I use a V-bridle with T-connections to the front frame slots and a strap extension to my winch hook to clear the splitter. However, I do not recommned T-connections to the frame for travel due to potential damage to your suspension components. Instead, I use through the wheel straps and ratchet to D-hooks at the four corners of the car. Great source for straps and the V-bridle is Straps & Supplies call Dennis at (706)283-6642.

http://strapsandsupplies.com/html/v-bridles.html

stevensa

I use this

http://www.macscustomtiedowns.com/product/79/UltraPacks

with these

http://www.macscustomtiedowns.com/product/89/All

johninar

I would like to second Mac's. I've used their straps and even though I don't have a ZR1, I sure don't want my Z going anywhere. I use a chain bridle to winch it into the car, then use the ratchet straps to secure the car. Cross the straps.

sperkins

That makes no sense. Which of those methods do you think puts more stress on the control arms?

jawfixer

I secure my lowered Z06 on E track with Macs straps over the wheels. It is easier on the suspension as the car rides on its own without hindering the suspension and arms. It is also easier than trying to reach underneath the car in the front to secure straps.

QCY2K6

LOL... Never ever use anything from Harbor Freight if you care about it. This junk is made in CHINA and if you have to stop fast you might have a ZR1 up your a$$. THIS IS NO JOKE!!! You get what you pay for!!!

Corvee

If you ratchet the frame down, the suspension cannot float. What happens if you hit a bump on the road? Something has to give someplace and will likely result in damaged suspension components. If you attach through the wheels and snug down on all four corners, the suspension (shocks/springs) are allowed to float, much like it is riding on the road surface.

sperkins

You are not "ratcheting down" on the frame rails using the factory shipping slots. You are simply limiting it's movement front to rear with the straps. The suspension is free to do what it wants.

Corvee

Check the height of your car the next time you do this and get back with me.

travisnd

I've been towing Corvettes for years... always use the factory frame slots with J-hooks and 4 good ratchet straps. I criss-cross them front and rear.

Corvee you are incorrect.... due to the way the straps mount in the above mentioned manner the car is free to move up and down just fine. It's the easiest way to deal with these cars and the way they are transported by GM.

You're not going to damage anything.

corvette95

I bought these at BloomingtonGold a few years ago.... makes loading / unloading soooooooo much easier than regular ratchet straps and the insulation protects the paint on the bottom of the bumper where the straps touch.

Corvee

Not trying to debate you here. Everyone has their preferences. The value of this forum is to share ideas. I may be incorrect. However, I have talked to different tow operators (including those that specialize in transporting exotics) and they all recommended using wheel straps because of potential damage. Not sure why car transporters use frame hooks but their set-up and positioning of the vehicles on the transport trailer is significantly different than the bed of a pull-behind trailer. I am trusting the pros on this one.

jvp

Well, no offense meant, but the "pros" in this case are the guys that designed the car's chassis and suspension. The holes in the chassis were put there specifically for ratcheting it down on a trailer, and for no other purpose.

Regardless of what tow operators may say, the proper way to lock a Corvette down to a trailer is to use the four holes in the chassis. That's why they're there.

jas

johninar

A Tow owner that I know says he uses the wheels to tie down because every car is different as to factory tie down points, but they "all got 4 wheels". It simplifies his life and he never has to second guess what tie down point he uses.

At any rate, Have fun at the track! And if you need any help at all driving that ZR1 just PM me. I'll be there!!

travisnd

Actually... they're there as mount points for the chassis to ride the conveyor system in the factory. The frame/body are assembled and held on a contraption suspended in the air. That contraption has 4 arms with "pegs" on them that fit into those holes.

The driveline is assembled on another line then they come together at "body marriage" in which the frame/body comes in high and the driveline is lifted up under the car then the techs make all the necessary connections.

That doesn't negate the fact that GM uses those holes for transport as well. I have an open trailer and I know for sure my car has no problems moving up and down independently of the trailer... I watch it. I agree that you want the suspension free to move some when towing

Falcon

Something I'd advise anyone using the "T" hooks is to use straps that have a flat snap hook on them.

It doesn't matter what the ratchet end has since that part doesn't go under the car. It's the strap end that hooks to the "T" hook that I'm talking about.

The twisted hooks, since they will be vertical under the car, will beat the frame rail and the trailer floor to pieces, leaving big dents in both.

My car is a race car so cosmetics aren't that important although I still don't want to tear up stuff, unnecessarily.

You guys with street cars, certainly don't want to have dents in the frame rails that can be prevented.

I switched to the flat hooks a while back and it solved the problem.

Scott Perkins has the name of a guy who has good prices on those straps. That's where I bought mine.

Here are pictures of what I'm talking about:

Flat snap hook strap:



Twisted snap hook strap:

Everett Ogilvie

As another person with a very low car and NO frame, and splitters and diffusers, etc. ..... I have struggled with different tie down methods for quite some time. I have used the lined straps that go THROUGH the wheels and that worked fine as far as the strap portion that goes through the wheel, but the ratchet strap that ties to the wheel strap rubbed/damaged the underbody some due to the extremely low vehicle height - THE IDLER FITTINGS AVAILABLE ARE EVEN TOO TALL TO GET THE STRAP OFF THE UNDERBODY (commercial exotic vehicle haulers all use these idlers and they are great most of the time).

I am now installing etrack most of the length of the trailer and I plan on putting 2X6s on each side of the etrack the full length, so the car is raised above the deck mounted etrack - this MIGHT buy me just enough to use the idler fitting. If it does not then I am going to use straps OVER the tires. The problem I now have is that the yellow straps that come with etrack clip fittings (which are definitely low enough - lower than the idler fittings) are not as high a WLL limit as my red ratchet straps.

I guess the question becomes - with straps on all 4 tires, what safety factor is needed (I wonder how many braking Gs my truck/trailer can generate?). The acid test would be an impact - can't have enough safety factor for that.