DRUGschnorr

wonder if anyone has tried raising the hood an inch or so with the use of hood pins adjusted to hold the hood up securely for TT and DE..

My guess it would allow the engine air to exhaust almost as good as the 1K lovered hoods..

Always the cheap guy

tomtom

John Shiels

I am sure the drag would be horrible

DRUGschnorr

would it or would it improve from removing the congestion in the bow of the car and the turbulance in the engine compartment...
i would hope someone win tunneled the hoods w/ vents to check for turbulance

anyone using louvers get lower engine temp w/out sacrificing high end speed..

John Shiels

louvers work but when air passes in and out of a car it creates drag. That said louvers create drag. There are no free lunches with aero.

Kneel 8250

Tom,
The base of the windscreen is a high pressure area which is why the factory puts the air inlet there for the cabin. If you want to get more air out of the engine compartment you need vents up in the hood behind the radiator and in front of the engine which is still a pressure area but lower pressure than in front of the windscreen.
If you want to convince yourself, jack up your hoodpins and put springs between the hood and the base then go for a run or two. It is cool to watch the hood bouncing up and down on the springs as the speed goes up and down.
Some of the early corvettes (1973 etc) had an air inlet door for just this purpose. To get high pressure air into the carburettor.

Have a great day.
Kneel.

AU N EGL

Take out the Left Fender vent cover ( inside the fender) this is the air exit point for the engine bay.

Put duct tape over the ZO6 screens,

duct the CAI out the license plate opening but seal that up tight too.

Put duct tape and seal the radiator shroud tight.

Take an air hose and blow the crap out of the radiator

Put 2 bottles of water wetter in the radiator.

The more air you can prevent from entering the engine bay the better protection against lift under the hood.

Add an oil cooler too keep the oil temps down too

davidfarmer

I'd say both the front and rear of the hood are high pressure areas.... You need ventilation just as the air is cresting the curvature of the hood....with the added benefit of the lips of the louver.

trackboss

This is what I did recently. The front edge of the opening is directly above the rear of the radiator and I installed both an upward lip at the front to create a pressure gradient and ducting at the rear to encourage airflow out. This is for the radiator in close to the factory location and angle. Any openings further back probably won't be as effective and as mentioned above may allow air to go in the engine bay which is not desirable.

nvygw171

With the splitter attached the radiator is fully enclosed.
Not an easy task...... I'm in the process of making a mold.



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wallyman424

Two questions for you:

1. What are you doing with the engine air intake?
2. Will you make me one?

Bill Dearborn

Absolutely, the old L88 Corvettes had high rise rear facing hood scoops to get pressurized air from the base of the windshield into the carb. The space between the front of the hood and the rear is pretty much undisturbed by air flow as the front deflects the air up. I have been at triple digit speeds with a couple of my cars with a bug sitting happily on the hood until it wanders to far forward or rearward.

Bill

John Shiels

don't stare at the bugs to long

nvygw171

Nothing special with intake just relocated it to the front right and routed the tubing to drop beside the headlight and the frame.

The cooling effect is pretty extreme i put the stock radiator back in and am only runny one small fan
Also noted that the front rides about a half in lower than before at 80 so i will likely need to beef up the coils a bit and run a bigger rear wing. I also made a metal mesh license plate cover that i can pop in when on the track that directly feeds air to the oil cooler.

DRUGschnorr

wonderful comments.
I will remove the left fender duct tonight.
I have been breaking the skid plate on offs. so i like the beefed up skid bar in one of the photos.. will have to fab that doohicky.

I use a varaham cai and lots of guirella tape to seal up the duct work.
NO license plate.. thinking of removing the driving lamps to add more air to the brakes to decrease shared heat.

got a plumbing deal going to run the Z06 external oil cooler to the Dewitte water cooler and back to engine.
just found out the stock oil line contains a back flow pressure that prevents the external cooling from running if pressure drops below 8psi on the line too cool.. will adapt AN -10 fittings to make the lines. John at Dewitts gave me great advise. BTW adding his radiator and a higher octane droped water temp 30-40 degrees and oil by 20 in the TExas summer at DE's..


i'll have to attach a bug to the hood to check out the negative pressure.. if this is so, then a raised hood might be too much drag..not good.
already have to give the straights away to the Z06's.

in sailboat racing we attached yarn to the sails to read flow.. i think i'll decorate the hood and check it out.. maybe there is an art car parade i could enter while i'm there.
LOL

travisnd

Pretty work... make a mold!

John Shiels

http://www.circletrack.com/ultimater.../photo_06.html