Body roll [pic]
#1
Team Owner
Thread Starter
Body roll [pic]
Here is my 2001 Z06 with stock suspension and street tires. Do you think this is too much body roll? I'm planning to get pfadt's Jonny O'Connel sway bars because the rate seems pretty good and they are reasonably priced. Thoughts?
#2
Melting Slicks
Can't go wrong with Pfadt's product line though and they are great people to boot.
#3
Burning Brakes
I used the Hotchkiss sways before the T-1's. Great bars with heim joints, very light weight, and no noise. Great for autocrossing or street!
What that photo shot taken at the new Inde track?
#4
Burning Brakes
Quick transiton corners, hard left and hard right (VIR 4 and 5 come to mind) You can really tell the affects of body roll. Takes just a split second longer to transfer load. Id say a set of sways or just fronts wont do any harm!
#6
Race Director
Member Since: Sep 2004
Location: Cypress TX
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St. Jude Donor '07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-'18
Not bad at all, but if you really want flatter cornering, get a set of T1 sway bars front and rear. I would also recommend the adjustable end links. Good luck!
#7
Team Owner
Thread Starter
I would, but from what I've seen the T1 bars cost $1000. WTF? Pfadt's site shows the O'Connel bars are just slightly less stiff than the T-1 bars and come with non noisy adjustable end links and poly bushings for $625. Or $1000 with the matching shocks. Is there a place I can buy the T-1 bars, end links, and bushing for a similar price?
#8
Team Owner
I would, but from what I've seen the T1 bars cost $1000. WTF? Pfadt's site shows the O'Connel bars are just slightly less stiff than the T-1 bars and come with non noisy adjustable end links and poly bushings for $625. Or $1000 with the matching shocks. Is there a place I can buy the T-1 bars, end links, and bushing for a similar price?
#9
Safety Car
Keep an eye out for used T1 bars.... I bought a set for $400 w/ endlinks. However, the RF end link was going bad so I replaced them with Powergrid endlinks which are a huge upgrade IMO. No more clanky heim-joints with limited range of motion.
#10
Racer
Here's a T1 bar set up (stock springs). Note this car (pre cage, lots of low ballast) had a very low cg.
I actually wish I could (and plan to) soften the front bar. Depending on the track, some (slower) weight transfer is not a bad thing.
I actually wish I could (and plan to) soften the front bar. Depending on the track, some (slower) weight transfer is not a bad thing.
#11
Le Mans Master
#12
Drifting
Why are you worried about it, is it causing you problems with pushing or being loose in the turns? Is the car allready lowerd to the maximum recommended by the OEM? Have you tried dialing in a little negative camber?
#13
Le Mans Master
#14
Team Owner
Thread Starter
Yes.
When I had the car aligned a couple years ago this is what it was set to.
Front: -1.5 camber, 0 toe. All the equal caster you can get.
Rear: -1.0 camber, 1/8 total toe in.
Tire wear has been very even accross the tire both front and rear, so I've been happy with camber. Maybe I could use more anyway? My rears have worn quicker than my fronts.
#16
Drifting
,
When I had the car aligned a couple years ago this is what it was set to.
Front: -1.5 camber, 0 toe. All the equal caster you can get.
Rear: -1.0 camber, 1/8 total toe in.
Tire wear has been very even accross the tire both front and rear, so I've been happy with camber. Maybe I could use more anyway? My rears have worn quicker than my fronts.
When I had the car aligned a couple years ago this is what it was set to.
Front: -1.5 camber, 0 toe. All the equal caster you can get.
Rear: -1.0 camber, 1/8 total toe in.
Tire wear has been very even accross the tire both front and rear, so I've been happy with camber. Maybe I could use more anyway? My rears have worn quicker than my fronts.