froggy47

I need rear tie rod ends (found play) and can't find any HD ones (insert long list of vendors I called).

The Baer bump steer kit (rear) is about the same price anyway, so I figure I will go with that.

I am lowered on stock bolts max front & 1/4 rake up in the back.

Car is handling very decent.

From what I have read it's a BIG DEAL to adjust bump steer kits (remove springs, raise/lower car yadayada) so that's not going to happen.

I guess I can adjust the kit to the identical dimension of the stock ends and be no worse off but fix the play in the rod end

OR

is there some diy quick n dirty way to set the kit so that I, at least, don't introduce bump steer into a decent handling car.

Please no guesses or do it by some race suspension engineering text book.

If I rack it with loaded suspension & set the arm level (bubble) will that work?

Thanks.

Zip Corvettes

Out of curiosity why would you pay that much for the bumpsteer kit in the rear and only replace the outer portion. We have the entire unit including that replaces the inner socket with a bearing.
http://www.zip-corvette.com/ProductD...GR-SR&CTitle=&

froggy47

Thanks for the post & that is a very nice looking piece, but 2x the price of just the outers.

The difference will buy a couple of scrub a6's.

I just have to watch every dollar I spend, 3 years ago I would not have thought twice about buying yours.

Really, thanks, want to sponser me? I race a lot & win region championships.

Let's talk, your logo would look good plastered on my car. Grassroots marketing.

Jason

Replace the tie rods, check the toe, adjust if needed.
???
Profit

travisnd

Yeah... this is for the rear toe-rod end... just adjust them to look like the stock part and slap them in.

Not sure why you're having issues w/ the OEM stuff. I just wrap DEI cool-tape around my rod ends and balljoints and secure with a plain 'ol zip-tie. Never an issue once you keep the heat off of them. The DEI cool tape is far less bulky than the header wrap I've seen some folks use and it's much easier to work with. Plus it's a heat reflector where-as header wrap is an insulator.

froggy47

Cause I never knew they have plastic in them & also did not know to insulate them.

Thanks!

John B

I have done it the correct way with the baer kit several times on lowered cars. The minimum toe change seems to always occur with the smallest shim in the kit under the tie rod. Sometimes no shim under. If you wanted a general guess thats mine. There are a lot of variables taking the spring out isn't a huge deal.

froggy47

Thank you John, that's exactly what I'm looking for.

If I set up that way & for any reason it's way off, I'll feel it when I run the car.

John B

When I said under I should have said over. The small shim between the steering arm & tie rod.

froggy47

Thanks, I understood what you meant, only one place the shims go.