vertC6

I have been reading up on the accusump for a few days now and have learned quite a bit from the posts I have read, but there are few questions I still have.

Some guys have said the manual is the easiest and safest way to go because you are not worrying about the valve or pressure switch failing, and it keeps a constant oil pressure without having any major drop offs in hard left hand cornering.

The issue that I see with the manual valve is as the motor gets hot and oil pressure begins to drop, you come into a corner at 3k rpm, OP at 30-35 and accusump pressure begins to drop with the oil pump pressure. Then in the corner the oil pickup goes dry, is there enough pressure in the accusump to keep the OP up.

The question I have not found with the EPC is does it continue to build pressure in the accusump with the one way check valve until the pressure is released? In other words, on a straight away you spike to 60 psi, does it hold the pressure in the accusump at 60psi and then release that amount of pressure once the OP drops to a set point. If so this seems to make the most sense to me because you will have more pressure released into the motor in a quick drop in OP.

On member stated to use the lower 25psi switch so it won't open under normal driving conditions and releasing the built up pressure, but release when it is really needed in a tight corner. Thoughts....

vertC6

Also does anyone have any good pictures of a "C6" install? If I do this I would like to go with the 3 quart but I know it will be tight. It sounds like some guys are installing the tank where the dry sump tank would be on a C6Z. Where then do you tap into the motor?

MySR71

I have the higher pressure, 35-40 psi, electric valve which is turned on-off by a switch on the dash. When I drove my car on the street, I would turn the switch on to pre-lube the engine, then start the car. After oil pressure built up, I would turn it off. The accsump with the electric valve can recharge even with the switch off. It just won't discharge. When driving on the street, I don't see why you would want the accusump active except for pre-lube. If you need the accsump on when driving on the street, then you are really doing something you shouldn't. On the racetrack, the higher pressure valve means that it will activate earlier in the event the stock oil system has trouble. That's my take on it.

vertC6

No I am definitely not going to get stupid on the street, this is for track use only.

From what I have read so far many guys have said when the engine is hot their OP is around 35-45 psi (many factors can effect this) but if that is the case the 35-40 pressure switch would stay open most of the time which would defeat the purpose of the pressure switch, right?

MySR71

Indeed it would. But I'm pretty sure my oil pressure is higher than 40 psi while out on track where the engine is reving. That's the only time I use it. I usually turn it off one starting the cool down lap.

gkmccready

My LS2 at Thunderhill keeps oil temperatures between about 250F and 270F and data shows I get min oil pressures in the 14-21psi range, and max pressures of 41-45psi typically -- I didn't dig in to see how long the 40+psi pressures were held. A handful of laps show max pressures of 45+psi.

I wouldn't assume a C6 sees oil pressures over 40psi a lot unless I've got an oddball car. Redline oil, Ron Davis radiator (w/ EOC+TOC). Toyo R888s.

MySR71

I see. That is certainly a lot different than my LS6.

trapp

I run the accusump on my C6 at the track only. I had a 25-35 switch and it was too low. It would never dump unless the car got to an idle. Also it was too low of a pressure because if you get down that low on the track you probably will be in trouble because the accsump would be to late. I run the 35-45 switch now and it works great. On the track your above those pressures and if it starts to dip the accusump can react quicker...I also have a manual switch to turn on the accusump mounted in the center consule that I turn on during my warm up lap. If you turn on it in the padlock it will constantly fire until you hit the track. I usaully turn it on then fire up the car....then shut it off until I'm on the track. I then turn it off on my cool down lap. It works great. I also have little LED light on my dash indicate when it dumps so I know it is working .....it blinks when it dumps...Anyway that what I have learned over this last year...

Good luck

trapp

vertC6

Trapp

What would you say is the average psi that you see on the track and how often does the accusump dump, just in the corners? When they say 35-45 does that mean you can adjust it down to 35?

gkmccready

I pulled up the data from an event earlier this year at Thunderhill in my '06. Stock motor to the air filter. Ron Davis radiator w/ EOC+TOC. Toyo R888s. I don't intend to be a pain in the butt here, but just look at how little time I spend at 40+psi in a given lap. Imagine that lap with hotter oil and stickier tires...

vertC6

No pics?

gkmccready

Hm. They come up for me... try:
http://www.petting-zoo.net/~gkm/junk...underhill.tiff
http://www.petting-zoo.net/~gkm/junk...underhill.tiff

davidfarmer

I like the old systems that just stayed open all of the time. The idea is to fill any minor voids, not to replace the oil pump. 15psi is enough to keep an engine alive, but a dip to zero will kill it fast. Even if the accusump dips to 15-20psi before "kicking in", there is a good chance it can save your engine.

vertC6

Wow, this is much lower than I thought it would be. The mean pressure is about 28 psi which would mean if you had a 35-40 pressure which it would be open virtually all of the time so you may as well go with a manual switch, right?

gkmccready

I notice you (vertC6) have an '08 and trapp has an '09... maybe they pumped up the oil pressure on the LS3s? or maybe my LS2 is an oddball...

vertC6

As far as I am aware there were no changes, maybe he runs a thicker oil? Do you use a accusump?

gkmccready

I have 10w30 Redline in there this change, local supplier was out of 10w40. I do not have an accusump. I'm only chiming in to help you with valve selection. :-)

vertC6

I greatly appreciate the help.

Another thought for those running a manual ball valve how do you know if the accusump is filling up the cylinder all the way? If you OP is siting around 30psi is that enough to keep it full?

trapp

I know my car on the track runs pressure above 30 psi at all times...I had a lower pressure valve at first and it would NEVER go off and dump the accusump. I jumped to the 35-45psi valve which seems to dump at about 38psi.....and it will dump once in a while in long corners..otherwise nowhere else. I could run it all the time (daily driving) but it would be dumping all the time...my cars oil pressure drops below 38psi all the time stopping and going in traffic. I just use it for the track and switch it on during my warm-up lap. I like the idea of the higher psi valve because it will react sooner to a drop in pressure then a 25-35 valve....I know when it dumps due to the LED blinking and when I glance at the oil pressure gauge it is dumping just around 38psi or lower.....or if your really worried get a dry sump installed...

AU N EGL

May want to re think that.

Turn the key to accessory, do not start the car
Let gauges swing and settle down.

Flip on the Manual Accu-sump switch = this pre-lubes Block ( assists to reduce SBC piston slap noise )

Watch the oil pressure gauge go up.

THEN crank the engine over.

Let the engine idle for a minute or so, then drive off to the grid. Or down the street.

I tend to see 10 psi per / 1000 rpms 55-60 psi at red line 3rd gear is not uncommon. but almost never less then 30 psi.

anything under 25 psi may have some oil restrictions or look to a better oil filter.

Running the accu-sump all the time keeps the oil temp the same in the sump tank as the block.

Dumping colder oil from the sump into a hot block may not be a good thing.

with oil cooler temps are 240-255* 245-250* is normal.
M1 15-W50

in colder weather I cover part of the cooler to get oil temps UP to 240*