Changing Pads on BBKs
#1
Burning Brakes
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Changing Pads on BBKs
Looking to upgrade my Grand Sport brakes but want a BBK that allows exchange of 1 piece pads without having to remove the caliper. Just trying to reduce the time it takes to prep for an HPDE and switch back to street pads for daily driver use.
Looking for comments on users experience in changing pads on:
AP Racing AP6000
Brembo Gran Turismo 6 Piston Monoblock
StopTech 6 Piston ST-60 Calipers
Wilwood 6 Piston W6A Calipers
Looking for comments on users experience in changing pads on:
AP Racing AP6000
Brembo Gran Turismo 6 Piston Monoblock
StopTech 6 Piston ST-60 Calipers
Wilwood 6 Piston W6A Calipers
Last edited by Dan Wendling; 12-20-2010 at 07:21 PM.
#2
Safety Car
Removing the caliper on the radial mount kits is two low-torque nuts; I wouldn't keep the requirement of a removable bridge, personally. That said, my Wilwood SL6Rs use a simple bridge bolt and pad swaps can be done without removing the caliper...
#3
Burning Brakes
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Low Torque?
The caliper mount bolts on the Z06 caliper require 130 ft pounds, generally require an air impact to free them.
Not exactly convenient, so when I upgrade to a BBK the ease of changing pads is important.
I need to get something more than performance when I spend $5K.
The caliper mount bolts on the Z06 caliper require 130 ft pounds, generally require an air impact to free them.
Not exactly convenient, so when I upgrade to a BBK the ease of changing pads is important.
I need to get something more than performance when I spend $5K.
#4
Melting Slicks
Low Torque?
The caliper mount bolts on the Z06 caliper require 130 ft pounds, generally require an air impact to free them.
Not exactly convenient, so when I upgrade to a BBK the ease of changing pads is important.
I need to get something more than performance when I spend $5K.
The caliper mount bolts on the Z06 caliper require 130 ft pounds, generally require an air impact to free them.
Not exactly convenient, so when I upgrade to a BBK the ease of changing pads is important.
I need to get something more than performance when I spend $5K.
If youre spending 5k, why not get the best of the best and pick up a monobloc caliper with a solid bridge.
#5
Safety Car
Yes, low-torque. When you add a brake kit the majority of them take those 130lb-ft bolts and use them to hold an adapter. Then the caliper is secured using nuts on a couple of studs that are low-torque.
#6
Racer
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Brembo 6 piston monoblocks--have a fixed rear bridge and require removing the caliper and inserting the pads from the front.
Brembo has developed a stud kit for the front calipers that makes removal really easy-- 2 nuts torqued to about 65 ft.lbs.
Functionally, the brakes are nothing short of amazing! Don't let the fixed rear bridge be the one factor that dissuades you from choosing them.
Jonathan
Brembo has developed a stud kit for the front calipers that makes removal really easy-- 2 nuts torqued to about 65 ft.lbs.
Functionally, the brakes are nothing short of amazing! Don't let the fixed rear bridge be the one factor that dissuades you from choosing them.
Jonathan
#9
It is a lot easier push the pistons back in with the calipers off. Most guys that have the option of replacing the pad without removing the calipers
do it anyway because it is quicker, especially with the low tq bolts.
Call Robert Finlayson at Performance AFX about their AP Racing kit, he'll answer every question you have.
do it anyway because it is quicker, especially with the low tq bolts.
Call Robert Finlayson at Performance AFX about their AP Racing kit, he'll answer every question you have.
#11
Pro
StopTech has install instructions on their web site along with templates so you can check if your wheels will clear. You might want to skim through the install instructions as they will show you how everything goes together, including bolt torques.
#12
I have the AP Racing calipers. I find it easier to just remove the two massive allen bolts (only an allen wrench is needed). Then, with the caliper in my hands, I use this tool
Pad Spreader
Apologies for an ebay link...but this is a damn handy tool.
The tool also works well on my Wilwood rears which I typically remove the bridge bolt to change pads on. Wilwoods have small nuts with washers that you need to keep an eye on; doesn't matter if you go the bridgebolt or remove the caliper route.
Pad Spreader
Apologies for an ebay link...but this is a damn handy tool.
The tool also works well on my Wilwood rears which I typically remove the bridge bolt to change pads on. Wilwoods have small nuts with washers that you need to keep an eye on; doesn't matter if you go the bridgebolt or remove the caliper route.
#13
Le Mans Master
Here's some reading material on monobloc vs. 2-pc.
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_monobloc.shtml
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_monobloc.shtml
Have a good one,
Mike
#17
Supporting Vendor
Dan,
Pulling off calipers to change pads isn't terribly more difficult than removing a bridge piece. That said, some are easier than others. All of the serious monobloc race calipers require removal for a pad change. What the teams do is have a separate set of calipers already loaded with pads, ready to install. The car comes into the pits, they pull the wheels, calipers, and pop on the new calipers, and done. Works great if you have an unlimited budget.
On the Brembo's, I really find that it's a bit of a pain to remove those little pad retention pins. They ends of those pins aren't exactly large pieces of flat real estate, and tapping them out with a hammer and punch also puts you at risk for damaging the caliper/finish. I find it much easier to unscrew the bolts that use an allen wrench (StopTech's, Wilwoods, AP's). With the StopTech's you have two allen bolts vs. one, and sometimes the bridge is a little finicky to get back into the caliper properly (and you need to install it in the proper direction). Usually not a problem though.
I'd suggest investigating the AP/Hardbar T1 brake kit. Easy and cheap pad changes were one of the primary design goals for the system. let me know if you have any questions during your research. Email: Jeff Ritter Thanks.
Pulling off calipers to change pads isn't terribly more difficult than removing a bridge piece. That said, some are easier than others. All of the serious monobloc race calipers require removal for a pad change. What the teams do is have a separate set of calipers already loaded with pads, ready to install. The car comes into the pits, they pull the wheels, calipers, and pop on the new calipers, and done. Works great if you have an unlimited budget.
On the Brembo's, I really find that it's a bit of a pain to remove those little pad retention pins. They ends of those pins aren't exactly large pieces of flat real estate, and tapping them out with a hammer and punch also puts you at risk for damaging the caliper/finish. I find it much easier to unscrew the bolts that use an allen wrench (StopTech's, Wilwoods, AP's). With the StopTech's you have two allen bolts vs. one, and sometimes the bridge is a little finicky to get back into the caliper properly (and you need to install it in the proper direction). Usually not a problem though.
I'd suggest investigating the AP/Hardbar T1 brake kit. Easy and cheap pad changes were one of the primary design goals for the system. let me know if you have any questions during your research. Email: Jeff Ritter Thanks.
#18
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St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
Dan,
Pulling off calipers to change pads isn't terribly more difficult than removing a bridge piece. That said, some are easier than others. All of the serious monobloc race calipers require removal for a pad change. What the teams do is have a separate set of calipers already loaded with pads, ready to install. The car comes into the pits, they pull the wheels, calipers, and pop on the new calipers, and done. Works great if you have an unlimited budget.
Pulling off calipers to change pads isn't terribly more difficult than removing a bridge piece. That said, some are easier than others. All of the serious monobloc race calipers require removal for a pad change. What the teams do is have a separate set of calipers already loaded with pads, ready to install. The car comes into the pits, they pull the wheels, calipers, and pop on the new calipers, and done. Works great if you have an unlimited budget.
Now finding a wheel that will clear that caliper...another story.
There are other models out now that are mono block and yes you have to pull the calipers. A lot of the teams will have a loaded caliper with a quick diss-connect and rotor with hat loaded and ready to go on. Little much $$ for a street car though
Some of Brembo's have the pin and that isn't bad, the others yeah you have to pull the caliper. Just remember loctite on the bolt.
StopTech's are not hard to deal with either, just don't over tighten the bridge bolts or it makes it a pain.
PFC's are easy to deal with and Wilwood's are not bad either.
Just don't want to pull the caliper or do you need to do quick pad changes?
#19
Le Mans Master
The W6A's have quick release pins (literally less than 5 seconds) and you can pull out the pads. No torqueing or removing anything but a couple clips.
Also, you can use them with OEM rotors which are much cheaper to replace and are high quality. So no need for high $$$ rotor rings and long rotor swaps to replace and rewire bolts. Just buy $80 rotors and replace them at will.
Stoptechs are nice and so is Brembo, but you are stuck using their expensive rotors.
Also, they clear stock wheels.
Also, you can use them with OEM rotors which are much cheaper to replace and are high quality. So no need for high $$$ rotor rings and long rotor swaps to replace and rewire bolts. Just buy $80 rotors and replace them at will.
Stoptechs are nice and so is Brembo, but you are stuck using their expensive rotors.
Also, they clear stock wheels.
#20
Speak for yourself. Even with spindle ducts and stock calipers, I wasn't getting through a weekend without breaking a stock rotor. I tried Carbotech XP12's and Cobalt XR2's with the same result. I'm saving money with 2-piece calipers.