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Changing Pads on BBKs

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Old 12-20-2010, 06:29 PM
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Dan Wendling
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Default Changing Pads on BBKs

Looking to upgrade my Grand Sport brakes but want a BBK that allows exchange of 1 piece pads without having to remove the caliper. Just trying to reduce the time it takes to prep for an HPDE and switch back to street pads for daily driver use.

Looking for comments on users experience in changing pads on:

AP Racing AP6000

Brembo Gran Turismo 6 Piston Monoblock

StopTech 6 Piston ST-60 Calipers

Wilwood 6 Piston W6A Calipers

Last edited by Dan Wendling; 12-20-2010 at 07:21 PM.
Old 12-20-2010, 07:20 PM
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gkmccready
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Removing the caliper on the radial mount kits is two low-torque nuts; I wouldn't keep the requirement of a removable bridge, personally. That said, my Wilwood SL6Rs use a simple bridge bolt and pad swaps can be done without removing the caliper...
Old 12-20-2010, 07:25 PM
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Dan Wendling
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Low Torque?

The caliper mount bolts on the Z06 caliper require 130 ft pounds, generally require an air impact to free them.

Not exactly convenient, so when I upgrade to a BBK the ease of changing pads is important.

I need to get something more than performance when I spend $5K.
Old 12-20-2010, 07:30 PM
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wallyman424
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Originally Posted by Dan Wendling
Low Torque?

The caliper mount bolts on the Z06 caliper require 130 ft pounds, generally require an air impact to free them.

Not exactly convenient, so when I upgrade to a BBK the ease of changing pads is important.

I need to get something more than performance when I spend $5K.
Radial mount calipers are different. Torque is generally around 20ftlbs or so. The torque for the caliper bracket -> spindle is still 130ftlbs however you never remove that.

If youre spending 5k, why not get the best of the best and pick up a monobloc caliper with a solid bridge.
Old 12-20-2010, 07:33 PM
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gkmccready
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Yes, low-torque. When you add a brake kit the majority of them take those 130lb-ft bolts and use them to hold an adapter. Then the caliper is secured using nuts on a couple of studs that are low-torque.

Old 12-20-2010, 08:22 PM
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Radguy
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Brembo 6 piston monoblocks--have a fixed rear bridge and require removing the caliper and inserting the pads from the front.

Brembo has developed a stud kit for the front calipers that makes removal really easy-- 2 nuts torqued to about 65 ft.lbs.

Functionally, the brakes are nothing short of amazing! Don't let the fixed rear bridge be the one factor that dissuades you from choosing them.

Jonathan
Old 12-20-2010, 08:27 PM
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I have used Stoptech ST60s and ST40s for 4 years and I recommend them
Old 12-20-2010, 08:29 PM
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I have used Stoptech ST60s and ST40s for 4 years and I recommend them
Old 12-20-2010, 11:26 PM
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dfinke23
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It is a lot easier push the pistons back in with the calipers off. Most guys that have the option of replacing the pad without removing the calipers
do it anyway because it is quicker, especially with the low tq bolts.
Call Robert Finlayson at Performance AFX about their AP Racing kit, he'll answer every question you have.
Old 12-20-2010, 11:54 PM
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DarkMastyr
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Here's a video

Brembo 6-piston monobloc:


Here's some reading material on monobloc vs. 2-pc.
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_monobloc.shtml
Old 12-21-2010, 12:37 PM
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StopTech has install instructions on their web site along with templates so you can check if your wheels will clear. You might want to skim through the install instructions as they will show you how everything goes together, including bolt torques.
Old 12-21-2010, 01:58 PM
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kmagvette
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I have the AP Racing calipers. I find it easier to just remove the two massive allen bolts (only an allen wrench is needed). Then, with the caliper in my hands, I use this tool

Pad Spreader

Apologies for an ebay link...but this is a damn handy tool.

The tool also works well on my Wilwood rears which I typically remove the bridge bolt to change pads on. Wilwoods have small nuts with washers that you need to keep an eye on; doesn't matter if you go the bridgebolt or remove the caliper route.
Old 12-21-2010, 02:50 PM
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Originally Posted by DarkMastyr
Here's some reading material on monobloc vs. 2-pc.
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_monobloc.shtml
That is REALLY interesting reading, thanks for sharing!

Have a good one,
Mike
Old 12-21-2010, 05:17 PM
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dfinke23
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Biggest advantage with the AP's is the 20mm pad.
Old 12-21-2010, 07:39 PM
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Originally Posted by dfinke23
Biggest advantage with the AP's is the 20mm pad.
Wilwood Superlite pad-shape! :-)
Old 12-21-2010, 10:51 PM
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magnetic1
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Originally Posted by dfinke23
Biggest advantage with the AP's is the 20mm pad.
If you want thick, the PFC ZR54s allow for a 28mm pad :
Old 12-22-2010, 09:29 AM
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JRitt@essex
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Dan,
Pulling off calipers to change pads isn't terribly more difficult than removing a bridge piece. That said, some are easier than others. All of the serious monobloc race calipers require removal for a pad change. What the teams do is have a separate set of calipers already loaded with pads, ready to install. The car comes into the pits, they pull the wheels, calipers, and pop on the new calipers, and done. Works great if you have an unlimited budget.

On the Brembo's, I really find that it's a bit of a pain to remove those little pad retention pins. They ends of those pins aren't exactly large pieces of flat real estate, and tapping them out with a hammer and punch also puts you at risk for damaging the caliper/finish. I find it much easier to unscrew the bolts that use an allen wrench (StopTech's, Wilwoods, AP's). With the StopTech's you have two allen bolts vs. one, and sometimes the bridge is a little finicky to get back into the caliper properly (and you need to install it in the proper direction). Usually not a problem though.



I'd suggest investigating the AP/Hardbar T1 brake kit. Easy and cheap pad changes were one of the primary design goals for the system. let me know if you have any questions during your research. Email: Jeff Ritter Thanks.

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Old 12-22-2010, 03:23 PM
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0Anthony @ LGMotorsports
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Originally Posted by JRitt@essex
Dan,
Pulling off calipers to change pads isn't terribly more difficult than removing a bridge piece. That said, some are easier than others. All of the serious monobloc race calipers require removal for a pad change. What the teams do is have a separate set of calipers already loaded with pads, ready to install. The car comes into the pits, they pull the wheels, calipers, and pop on the new calipers, and done. Works great if you have an unlimited budget.
Depends on the caliper and built too. The Alcon's on the GT2 car did not have to come off for a pad change, they just had a quick release pin that flipped over. hit it with your gloves and it would swing out of the way. The caliper held a 30mm thick pad so we could go 7 to 9 hrs without a pad change on a dry track depending on yellow's.



Now finding a wheel that will clear that caliper...another story.

There are other models out now that are mono block and yes you have to pull the calipers. A lot of the teams will have a loaded caliper with a quick diss-connect and rotor with hat loaded and ready to go on. Little much $$ for a street car though

Some of Brembo's have the pin and that isn't bad, the others yeah you have to pull the caliper. Just remember loctite on the bolt.

StopTech's are not hard to deal with either, just don't over tighten the bridge bolts or it makes it a pain.

PFC's are easy to deal with and Wilwood's are not bad either.

Just don't want to pull the caliper or do you need to do quick pad changes?
Old 12-22-2010, 04:29 PM
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95jersey
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The W6A's have quick release pins (literally less than 5 seconds) and you can pull out the pads. No torqueing or removing anything but a couple clips.

Also, you can use them with OEM rotors which are much cheaper to replace and are high quality. So no need for high $$$ rotor rings and long rotor swaps to replace and rewire bolts. Just buy $80 rotors and replace them at will.

Stoptechs are nice and so is Brembo, but you are stuck using their expensive rotors.

Also, they clear stock wheels.
Old 12-22-2010, 07:46 PM
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dfinke23
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Originally Posted by 95jersey
Also, you can use them with OEM rotors which are much cheaper to replace and are high quality. So no need for high $$$ rotor rings and long rotor swaps to replace and rewire bolts. Just buy $80 rotors and replace them at will.
Speak for yourself. Even with spindle ducts and stock calipers, I wasn't getting through a weekend without breaking a stock rotor. I tried Carbotech XP12's and Cobalt XR2's with the same result. I'm saving money with 2-piece calipers.


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