Remove washers under front UCAs for more neg camber? Yes/No?
#1
Remove washers under front UCAs for more neg camber? Yes/No?
I'm about to install the Hardbar camber kit and stud kit up front. I allready installed the rear camber kit this weekend. Hardbar's instructions say to mark the locations/amount of washers under each UCA bolt and replace them as they were. However, I know I've read where folks just remove them to get more neg camber.
This is a C5 Z06 being setup for TTA/PTA use that will be run on whatever 275/40/17s I can get cheap... but generally A6s and R6s due to the tire contingency.
Thoughts? My reading seems to suggest that in C5s they are there to correct for frame variances and tweak allignment, but in C6s they all have the same amount of washers... so it's uniform... is that at all correct?
Thanks
This is a C5 Z06 being setup for TTA/PTA use that will be run on whatever 275/40/17s I can get cheap... but generally A6s and R6s due to the tire contingency.
Thoughts? My reading seems to suggest that in C5s they are there to correct for frame variances and tweak allignment, but in C6s they all have the same amount of washers... so it's uniform... is that at all correct?
Thanks
#2
Drifting
On either car, as long as you maintain the difference side to side you're fine.
I.e.: if you have two washer on the left front bolt, and 1 on the right front, then take one from both, leaving 1 on the left front.
Make sense?
I.e.: if you have two washer on the left front bolt, and 1 on the right front, then take one from both, leaving 1 on the left front.
Make sense?
#3
It would if they had the same amount of washers on both sides to begin with... I put Z06 suspension on another C5 that required unbolting the UCAs to relieve spring tension to get the spring out.... some had none and some had 2 and one had 3 washers... that is why I thought they were/are used to tweak the allignment. No?
#4
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Sep 2006
Location: San Mateo CA
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easily verified by measuring thrust angle. my c6 z06 had 1 washer each side, i left them in place.
with the pfadt kit there are 2 choices of LCA spacer installation. By using the wider choice (ultimately more neg camber possibility) and leaving the washer and adding shims to get to my desired 1.5° I was able to keep the widest possible front track.
with the pfadt kit there are 2 choices of LCA spacer installation. By using the wider choice (ultimately more neg camber possibility) and leaving the washer and adding shims to get to my desired 1.5° I was able to keep the widest possible front track.
Last edited by mousecatcher; 07-19-2010 at 07:42 PM.
#6
This is what I did and there's no need for a camber kit...
#7
Melting Slicks
You don't need plates! You just need a laser and a friend to hold a ruler. Put the ruler against the front hub and the laser against the rear tire per David instructions, then check tow, or you can check tow first and correct thrust angle from there. actually checking tow first is the better way. JD
#8
Burning Brakes
It would if they had the same amount of washers on both sides to begin with... I put Z06 suspension on another C5 that required unbolting the UCAs to relieve spring tension to get the spring out.... some had none and some had 2 and one had 3 washers... that is why I thought they were/are used to tweak the allignment. No?
In any case, after you install the camber kit and change the camber, you need to reset the toe. If you installed a camber kit on both front and rear, you will need to reset toe both front and rear. Resetting rear toe is the only reason you'd need to check the thrust angle.
#9
Melting Slicks
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If a car came with 2 washers on the left side UCA (both front and back) and 1 washer on the right side UCA, you'll want to preserve that offset (1 washer more on the left), to preserve what is probably a thrust angle correction on the car due to tolerance stackup.
#10
Drifting
No need for a camber kit unless you want your camber settings to walk on you.
Do what (i think) mousecatcher and I did, push the LCAs out using the biggest camber block, then shim the upper arm to get the camber you need. Wider track is good. Of course, it also slightly drops the wheel rate in front (10% or so).
Do what (i think) mousecatcher and I did, push the LCAs out using the biggest camber block, then shim the upper arm to get the camber you need. Wider track is good. Of course, it also slightly drops the wheel rate in front (10% or so).
#11
I have the Hardbar kit... only comes with one set of blocks for the front and rear.... Gary said they will get approx neg 2.5 front and net 1.5 rear. I finished up the rear brakes tonight.... will let you guys know what I find as far as washers. If they all have washers then I can remove one and preserve the setup... but if any one of those UCA bolts has zero washers then I cant do anything and preserve the settings.
#13
#15
Racer
sure:
NO-POINTS MODIFICATIONS:
10) Simple camber, caster, and toe adjustment by any method that does not alter suspension
mounting points (unless the modification used is otherwise assessed points above). Bolt on
camber/caster plates are not assessed points.
NO-POINTS MODIFICATIONS:
10) Simple camber, caster, and toe adjustment by any method that does not alter suspension
mounting points (unless the modification used is otherwise assessed points above). Bolt on
camber/caster plates are not assessed points.