Do you need to drill into frame for hitch install?
07-02-2010, 06:21 PM
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Do you need to drill into frame for hitch install?
I bought a draw tite hitch and am going to be installing it. Does this require the 4 points to be drilled out for the bolts? Also how do you install the wiring harness?
I bought this second hand so I have no instructions.
Thank you
I bought this second hand so I have no instructions.
Thank you
07-02-2010, 06:27 PM
#2
Le Mans Master
IIRC you have to drill 2 1/2" holes, 2 are already in place. I wired mine through the taillight lenses.
You should be able to go on line and find the install instructions for a Draw Tite.
HTH, and have a good one,
Mike
You should be able to go on line and find the install instructions for a Draw Tite.
HTH, and have a good one,
Mike
07-02-2010, 08:59 PM
#3
Drifting
These are instructions for a Curt hitch, which is similar, but not exactly the same as a Draw-Tite hitch. Keep looking around online and you can probably find written instructions for a Draw-Tite hitch.
The easiest way to do the wiring harness is to have an expert do it. I drove into a U-haul Trailer rental lot, and asked if they could install the wiring for me. It took about 30 minutes, cost about $40 (including the wiring parts), and it was better than I could have done it.
Last edited by bobmoore2; 07-02-2010 at 09:07 PM.
07-02-2010, 09:20 PM
#4
Former Vendor
I found the available hitches to be way over built(to an extent, poor engineering, oversized materials etc) so I built my own and it will handle the 1k load I will haul with ease, nearly 1/3rd the weight of off the shelf hitches!
You do have to drill into the frame but instead of bolts hanging down I made plates with nuts welded to them, once aligned welded in place, easy to remove the hitch if I want to but with such low weight not a big deal.
Just posting an alternative to what I have always found in hitches, excess poundage cause by overly simple designs.
Rick
You do have to drill into the frame but instead of bolts hanging down I made plates with nuts welded to them, once aligned welded in place, easy to remove the hitch if I want to but with such low weight not a big deal.
Just posting an alternative to what I have always found in hitches, excess poundage cause by overly simple designs.
Rick
07-02-2010, 09:52 PM
#5
Melting Slicks
If you have the Draw-Tite. It's the Sportframe Class I hitch the rest of us use.
See this link for the hitch and the install instructions in a PDF.
http://www.etrailer.com/p-24658.html
You should drop the mufflers to do this. You don't need to remove them. Just drop them and sit them on something.
You need a 1/2" drill bit and a 1" hole cutter. So yes you will make holes. Those holes are for the rear part of the hitch. The front supports are mounted with a bolt in a plate through a slot in the frame. Drill all your holes first.
Get a jack or a buddy to hold the back of the receiver in place.
If the person who sold you the hitch did not give you this weird looking spring thing. Then you'll need to make your own. What it is for is the bolt goes through the plate. Then wrap this wire around the bolt threads and tape it. Now you can feed the plate into the frame then pull the bolt back down through it. Like threading a needle. Then pull through the hitch arm support. Take wire off and put washer/nut on.
In the rear. Pull the plastic nuts holding the fascia in place. Drill 1/2" hole. Measure like it shows and use 1" hole cutter to make the opening. Then the nut that has a handle on it can be fed in and locked down. Leave the bend on the handle. It's what stops the nut from spinning since you won't be getting at it with a wrench. Feed a bolt up and try to find the threads on the nut on the handle. Hold the end of the handle with one hand and feed bolt with the other. Then feel them connect and thread. It takes a bit of effort.
Compared to installing the same type hitch on a C4, the C5 is a joke. I can do it in my sleep now... lol Plan on 1/2 day first time around.
If you ever need to remove the hitch it should take 30 minutes. Re-installing about an hour or two.
Where the picture shows to put the drawbar in with the curve facing up. Making the trailer connect high to the hitch. Caused me problems. Lost most of my tongue weight. The trailer constantly yanks and jerks the car. I flipped it and installed it facing down keeping the trailer nose lower. That makes getting about 100lbs of tongue weight easy. Just plan your trailer load accordingly. For my 4x6ft utility trailer. Toolbin with tools, jack, stuff in front. Wheels stacked in pairs behind it. Worked like a charm.
Graham
See this link for the hitch and the install instructions in a PDF.
http://www.etrailer.com/p-24658.html
You should drop the mufflers to do this. You don't need to remove them. Just drop them and sit them on something.
You need a 1/2" drill bit and a 1" hole cutter. So yes you will make holes. Those holes are for the rear part of the hitch. The front supports are mounted with a bolt in a plate through a slot in the frame. Drill all your holes first.
Get a jack or a buddy to hold the back of the receiver in place.
If the person who sold you the hitch did not give you this weird looking spring thing. Then you'll need to make your own. What it is for is the bolt goes through the plate. Then wrap this wire around the bolt threads and tape it. Now you can feed the plate into the frame then pull the bolt back down through it. Like threading a needle. Then pull through the hitch arm support. Take wire off and put washer/nut on.
In the rear. Pull the plastic nuts holding the fascia in place. Drill 1/2" hole. Measure like it shows and use 1" hole cutter to make the opening. Then the nut that has a handle on it can be fed in and locked down. Leave the bend on the handle. It's what stops the nut from spinning since you won't be getting at it with a wrench. Feed a bolt up and try to find the threads on the nut on the handle. Hold the end of the handle with one hand and feed bolt with the other. Then feel them connect and thread. It takes a bit of effort.
Compared to installing the same type hitch on a C4, the C5 is a joke. I can do it in my sleep now... lol Plan on 1/2 day first time around.
If you ever need to remove the hitch it should take 30 minutes. Re-installing about an hour or two.
Where the picture shows to put the drawbar in with the curve facing up. Making the trailer connect high to the hitch. Caused me problems. Lost most of my tongue weight. The trailer constantly yanks and jerks the car. I flipped it and installed it facing down keeping the trailer nose lower. That makes getting about 100lbs of tongue weight easy. Just plan your trailer load accordingly. For my 4x6ft utility trailer. Toolbin with tools, jack, stuff in front. Wheels stacked in pairs behind it. Worked like a charm.
Graham
07-02-2010, 10:36 PM
#6
Drifting
Here is a link to the instructions. http://draw-tite.towingtown.com/pdf/N24658.pdf
You also need to trim two tabs on the rear fascia.
It's an easy install. I need to pull mine as I don't pull a trailer any more. If you have any questions shoot me an IM.
Good luck
You also need to trim two tabs on the rear fascia.
It's an easy install. I need to pull mine as I don't pull a trailer any more. If you have any questions shoot me an IM.
Good luck
