Road raced camed C6Z's
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Road raced camed C6Z's
Just planning ahead here, but I'm seriously thinking about camming my C6Z (with all the other favorite bolt-ons) to have a little bit more fun on the street. I'm thinking the HP target will be about 550 - 600 RWHP. However, I do not want it to ruin my track day experience with overheating and degraded controllability. Is there anyone here who tracks their C6Z with cam/bolt-ons/tune regret doing it?
BTW, I'm close to installing coilovers, thicker sways, and better bushings first, so my "priorities" for tracking the car are in place!
Like I said, the extra power is just for more "street fun".
BTW, I'm close to installing coilovers, thicker sways, and better bushings first, so my "priorities" for tracking the car are in place!
Like I said, the extra power is just for more "street fun".
#2
Team Owner
It will depend on how hard you beat it on the track on what problems you will have at the track. After a track event what fun could be on the street?
Last edited by John Shiels; 06-28-2010 at 06:02 AM.
#3
Le Mans Master
Seriously, while I know the mod is not "as fun". I would do at least a BBK on the front before I added power. I was torn between the two and finally decided on the BBK. I am now 3 events into my new brakes and are much happier, but mostly my wallet is happier. I would have been through almost a complete set of front brakes so far, and as of today, I don't even think I wore 40% off my Wilwood H pads on my W6A's.
If you add power without BBK, you are going to eat through pads at a ridiculous rate (at almost $350 -$400 per axle), that cam will cost you a lot more than the $2500 install price!!
Just some food for thought from another C6Z owner.
If you add power without BBK, you are going to eat through pads at a ridiculous rate (at almost $350 -$400 per axle), that cam will cost you a lot more than the $2500 install price!!
Just some food for thought from another C6Z owner.
#4
Tech Contributor
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I second the notion of a BBK. Much better investment. Not sure how you can get any street fun with the added power. Where do you find the space to use it? Accelerating from one traffic light to another you won't get high enough in the power band to notice the difference. Adding 100 HP at 6000 rpm won't help if you only get to 4500 between lights.
Bill
Bill
#6
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Seriously, while I know the mod is not "as fun". I would do at least a BBK on the front before I added power. I was torn between the two and finally decided on the BBK. I am now 3 events into my new brakes and are much happier, but mostly my wallet is happier. I would have been through almost a complete set of front brakes so far, and as of today, I don't even think I wore 40% off my Wilwood H pads on my W6A's.
If you add power without BBK, you are going to eat through pads at a ridiculous rate (at almost $350 -$400 per axle), that cam will cost you a lot more than the $2500 install price!!
Just some food for thought from another C6Z owner.
If you add power without BBK, you are going to eat through pads at a ridiculous rate (at almost $350 -$400 per axle), that cam will cost you a lot more than the $2500 install price!!
Just some food for thought from another C6Z owner.
#7
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Yep, I'm a junky. I just don't get to go as much as I'd like. Most people look at me in disbelief when I tell them I plan to add $4000 in suspension mods before I even add a CAI!!!
I've become addicted to "runnin' people down".
I've become addicted to "runnin' people down".
Last edited by thebrander; 06-28-2010 at 10:48 PM. Reason: missed a word
#8
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
#9
I am also one that doesn't relate to the "street fun" comment - although as a teenager in the Sixties I did a lot of street drags.
Now that I'm converted to road racing like you, this was my order of adding features to my Z06 and I think it would be the same if I started the process all over agan;
* Hi-temp brake pads & brake cooling
* Sticky race tires
* Big brake kit
* Safety equipment (HANS, roll bar, 6-point, race seat)
* Improved dry sump system
* Coil-overs (this is the stage that I'm currently at)
---------------------------------------------------
* Aerodynamics - more downforce instead of lift (ala Katech)
* More naturally aspirated horsepower
Many could argue that I should move the safety equipment higher up in the list. One thing for sure, with the kind of speeds that I'm carrying through some of the hi-speed corners and sweepers, I definitely want more downforce before I add more horsepower.
John
Now that I'm converted to road racing like you, this was my order of adding features to my Z06 and I think it would be the same if I started the process all over agan;
* Hi-temp brake pads & brake cooling
* Sticky race tires
* Big brake kit
* Safety equipment (HANS, roll bar, 6-point, race seat)
* Improved dry sump system
* Coil-overs (this is the stage that I'm currently at)
---------------------------------------------------
* Aerodynamics - more downforce instead of lift (ala Katech)
* More naturally aspirated horsepower
Many could argue that I should move the safety equipment higher up in the list. One thing for sure, with the kind of speeds that I'm carrying through some of the hi-speed corners and sweepers, I definitely want more downforce before I add more horsepower.
John
#10
Le Mans Master
Pad changes on the OEM brakes are what you do if you die and go to hell. You will be constantly changing a dozen paddlets for all eternity...
If you are adding BBK, then go for the cam. Just be carefull...to this day, I am still in awe of the accleration of my stock internal Z and the speed I achieve into the braking zones.
#11
Burning Brakes
I have to agree with the brakes and suspension before the additional power. I added power to play on the street with some friends of mine who have cars that have 700-1000rwhp(makes my 580rwhp seem slow). Then I got hooked on the road course. Soon found out that big brakes and suspension are definitely more important than horsepower. Then I played catch up on all the suspension and brake mods plus addressing the heating issues of a big hp car. Don't forget the dry sump upgrade. I'm still working on fixing bad habits I developed with the big power and sub par brakes/suspension.
#12
Team Owner
Member Since: Sep 2003
Location: Raleigh / Rolesville NC
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Upgrade order:
1 Contact patches
- brake pads, or BBK
- Brake cooling
- seats and harnesses
- tires
2. Cooling
- brake cooling ( above
-bigger radiator
- oil cooler
- trans and diff cooler
- cool suit for driver
then nothing but seat time.
HP mods are sexy as hell but DO NOT make you faster
1 Contact patches
- brake pads, or BBK
- Brake cooling
- seats and harnesses
- tires
2. Cooling
- brake cooling ( above
-bigger radiator
- oil cooler
- trans and diff cooler
- cool suit for driver
then nothing but seat time.
HP mods are sexy as hell but DO NOT make you faster
#13
Safety Car
I have a C5 with an aluminum LS2 with Texas Speeds Magik Stik 3. It has 100 less hp than the sc LS6 I had, but it much faster at the track and a lot less maintenance. It is also my dd. When the LS6 blew up, I tried to build a bullet proof motor for the track and for dd. This is a pretty good set up so far. It hangs with most C6 Zs and Porsches, but when I learn to drive - see ya'. I am still on stock Z06 brakes, but I am getting to the limits of the Xp12s for 25 min sessions. I can't imagine you regretting having to drive around with all that torque to play with!
#14
Former Vendor
Member Since: Aug 2005
Location: Lewisville TX
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St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
I think everyone has good points here.
There is nothing wrong with adding HP to a race car. Like they say it's better to have to much than not enough. They will help cover up things like bad tires, bad brakes....to some degree. HP is only part of the equation of having a fast street and track car.
Now do think about this when speaking about a road race car...
1. You are going to be adding more HP so the car is going to produce more heat. If you are marginal on cooling now, plan on a radiator and possibly larger oil cooler to keep the car safe on track.
2. More HP = More Speed so make sure the suspension, tires, and brakes are up to the task.
I would be more than happy to go over any of our cam, brake, suspension, and wheel/tire combo options for you.
There is nothing wrong with adding HP to a race car. Like they say it's better to have to much than not enough. They will help cover up things like bad tires, bad brakes....to some degree. HP is only part of the equation of having a fast street and track car.
Now do think about this when speaking about a road race car...
1. You are going to be adding more HP so the car is going to produce more heat. If you are marginal on cooling now, plan on a radiator and possibly larger oil cooler to keep the car safe on track.
2. More HP = More Speed so make sure the suspension, tires, and brakes are up to the task.
I would be more than happy to go over any of our cam, brake, suspension, and wheel/tire combo options for you.
#15
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I think everyone has good points here.
There is nothing wrong with adding HP to a race car. Like they say it's better to have to much than not enough. They will help cover up things like bad tires, bad brakes....to some degree. HP is only part of the equation of having a fast street and track car.
Now do think about this when speaking about a road race car...
1. You are going to be adding more HP so the car is going to produce more heat. If you are marginal on cooling now, plan on a radiator and possibly larger oil cooler to keep the car safe on track.
2. More HP = More Speed so make sure the suspension, tires, and brakes are up to the task.
I would be more than happy to go over any of our cam, brake, suspension, and wheel/tire combo options for you.
There is nothing wrong with adding HP to a race car. Like they say it's better to have to much than not enough. They will help cover up things like bad tires, bad brakes....to some degree. HP is only part of the equation of having a fast street and track car.
Now do think about this when speaking about a road race car...
1. You are going to be adding more HP so the car is going to produce more heat. If you are marginal on cooling now, plan on a radiator and possibly larger oil cooler to keep the car safe on track.
2. More HP = More Speed so make sure the suspension, tires, and brakes are up to the task.
I would be more than happy to go over any of our cam, brake, suspension, and wheel/tire combo options for you.
#16
Former Vendor
Member Since: Aug 2005
Location: Lewisville TX
Posts: 16,898
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St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
LG, your shop is very attractive for me because of all your racing experience. My ONLY dilemma is distance. If something went wrong with the car I wouldn't want the additional burden of long distance shipping. What is the "typical process" for your long distance customers with car problems (or do they have any once YOU take care of them )?
We have cars in here from all across the country, some have me pick up the cars, some drive them in and fly home while the work is being done, and others will just use the time as vacation here in Dallas. So that is the easy side of things.
We always take care of our customers, and I have quite a few road racers in the Houston area if you would like to here from them first hand. A few even make the drive just for us to do oil changes.