CodeBlack

So, after reading the oil starvation thread I purchased an oil tank made by LPE hoping that it would solve the problem. It didn't, after coming off the track at Watkins Glen my pressure varied briefly at idle from 12 to 16 psi and came up to 30. Once things cooled down it went back to normal. I've read some threads that stated in addition to the LPE tank they added a blue printed oil pump by Katech and a Aviaid pan and tray and had the same problem. So what is the solution? Oil temp was 293

John Shiels

big oil cooler MAN size! Also at the Glen take it out of second gear once in a while and keep the R's down
What oil were you running? 0-5W

CodeBlack

No doubt, but how will it help pressure?

John Shiels

oil won't be like ****. Pour some oil out of a bottle when it is 0* F and pour it out in the summer. Hopefully you still had good flow. Coolant temp was?

CodeBlack

I was running Royal purple 5W-30 XPR. The XPR is suppose to be top of the line oil. I'll go back to Mobil one 15-50 next time.

CodeBlack

I'm STUPID, didn't write down coolant numbers to remember

John Shiels

yes over two digits I understand

KB was driving to get it to 293 or was it when you were driving and had Sterno under the car?

John Shiels

Get home yet with the dead battery?

AU N EGL

Oil pressure in the C6Z and ZR1 do not get that high. 25- 30 psi is normal for hard running and mid teens at idle IIRC.

I would also prefer higher oil pressure.

John Shiels

He has GMPP

CodeBlack

I would think it's causing damage to our cars "bearing"? I was going to buy the added protection, but when I read other threads stating they did the pump and tray and still have the problem why bother? I guess the stock C6Z06 can't handle going beyond street tires and oem breaks.

John Shiels

More money can fix just about every thing mechanical. Big radiator, bigger coolers, it is a can of worms!

CodeBlack

It is a can of worms. I've read all the posts regarding oil starvation and the solutions. I really like the posts about how GM recommends and has installed a larger tank. Didn't work for me. I also read the posts about hard braking and oil starvation. Replacing a blown LS7 engine, around 14,000 plus labor.

John Shiels

The faster you go the more personal risk, more consumables to buy, more upgrades to perform. Believe me it never ends and the cost is incredible I lost and engine, tranny, and diff in one swift BANG! Rising gas and another economic world wide collapse a good possibility if Spain 10X bigger follows Greece. Then drop in Italy, Ireland, Portugal, and the growing US debt taking us near the same record deficit levels your Z will be worth 3 grand or less as you can't eat it!

AND if the economy stays good your MODDED car is worth squat anyway!

Where's the wax?

exracer28

A number of vendors make real race dry sump tanks that cost less then a modified stock tank. A good pan is expensive but you do get a race pan and adding an external pump will get a race system. Oil coolers and external filters are a given. Watch the forum and flea bay and you will be shocked at some of the deals but you have to be ready to buy. With a used pump I send it to maker for service. Be sure to clean all lines and put cheap oil in for first start because after you fix any leaks you will drain out the cleaning oil and put the good stuff in. After firstr track session replace oil filter again.

I have a used ARE system including pan, pump, cooler and tank all bought from different sources but I have less than 2K into everything and the tank was bought new.

It is not all doom and gloom but it is cheaper to improve oiling system than replacing an engine

Good luck.

Poor-sha

I think we're mixing oranges and tangerines here (related but different). The oil starvation issue that the larger tank was designed to solve had to do with moments under high G where there was no oil to pump and therefore you had at best very high wear for those moments.

This is different from the low oil pressure that most everyone experiences if you are running the car hard on a warm day. I believe that Jason from Katech has stated that ~10PSI for every 1000 RPM is normal so that implies that low teens at idle are ok.

I have the ARE stage 3 on my car (~12 qts of oil) along with a Ron Davis radiator and oil cooler. If I run 5W30 at the track on a hot day I will still see low oil pressure like you are seeing. The solution is easy - run a heavier oil ike 15W50.

Now, what I'm going to try this year is Mobil1 0W40 to see how that works out. In theory that should give me better oil pressure at the track without the cold start issues.

John Shiels

what was the oil pressure on track at good rpm down the straight

Poor-sha

Not sure if you're asking me or not John but to be honest I don't know. When I was at the NCM NJMP event last year Frank was my instructor and he was a bit concerned at how low my oil pressure was on the front straight but I don't know the numbers. I was running 5W30 at the time and after that switched to 15W50 (and only ended up running one more event and then switched back to 5W30 for Winter - talk about expensive).

John Shiels

Asking Steve or anyone so he can compare. May be he can see it on his video or saw it on his heads up.

CodeBlack

GM has a bulletin on it PIP#4158B, DOC#2214865. It's saying that various GM models including our LS7 is having this problem. Cause-seized oil pressure relief valve. This may happen intermittently and the valve frees up when the car cools down. This has been discussed on the forum in the past. I don't see how adding thicker oil solves the problem. sure, if I put thicker oil in it makes the needle go up it doesn't solve the problem with the relief valve. I saw Katech's solution.