6SSPD

MRC24X, did a fabulous job with his "L-98 based bullet-proof" engine, I would LOVE to build something a little more powerful, than that, and BULLET-PROOF of course like that, but with a 400 inch setup. Here is what I already have. Oh and BTW, this is going into a 3400 lb Street/Road racing G-BODY. All creative ideas are wanted. MRC24X, and GKULL, I WOULD GREATLY APPRECIATE your inputs as well

-ACCEL PRO-RAM EFI Intake
-Ported AFR 190 heads
-39# 2003/4 injectors
-ACCEL 58mm L-98 T.B.
-Custom made 90 degree elbow for the T.B.
-Re-built 1997 T-56
-Mcleod LT-1 SFI Steel Bellhousing
-G-BODY 8.5" G-80 3.73 rearend
-Champ 8Qt. Road-Racing Oil-pan
-ACCU-SUMP 3Qt. accumulator

I would REALLY appreciate tried and trued engine combination examples for such an application. I know how out of control a project like this can, and most often DO get, especially, with the classic "MIGHT AS WELLS!!!" I'm NOT trying to beat the WORLD with this project, I just want to have some good fun, and still be happy with any positive results. I really admire Matt "MRC24X's" philosophy, of making the best with reasonable effort. I would be happy with a engine that would make power to 65-6800 MAX. Thank you gentlemen, and

mgarfias

If memory serves, you want at least the 195cc AFR. And ask them to roll the head 5deg (to 18 from 23).

Not much else I remember about the L98, sorry.

redvetracr

If your interested I`m selling my 414" 18* head SB with two hours on it, the powers that be won`t let me race it....I also have a 23* head 406" for cheap...

6SSPD

Thanks for the reply gents. I was hoping for more replies on this, with VALVETRAIN suggestions, and the proverbial CAST/FORGED crankshaft justification. Here are a few questions on the subject.

-Would it would be beneficial to go solid roller over hydraulic roller.
-Is it worth it going solid roller with this combination, since the RPM's are not that extreme? E.G., 6500-6800 RPMS.
-Would a good BILLET CORE hydraulic roller cam with matching good proven springs, locks, light-weight retainers, and good lifters, like MORELS, take care of the nuances with HYDRAULIC ROLLER cams, and sustained RPM usage?
-Is it worth the trouble to plumb in dedicated GEARBOX/REAREND pump and coolers to reduce equipment damage?
-Is it worth it to run a POWER STEERING pump cooler and/or special fluids, plus under-driving the crank pulley to reduce wear and tear on the accessories?

I have heard stories of people cooking their power steering pump and RACK, during HPDE. I know the above options cost extra money, and they fall into the "MIGHT AS WELL" realm, but I remember that video with Matt MRC24X, a few months back; where he had to come off the track due to the DANA-44 REAREND COOKING, and spewing gear oil.

I hope that I'm not being OVERLY paranoid, I just don't want to be spending money in vain, due to poor preparation. Thanks Gents.

Aardwolf

One of the first things I had to do with my car was address the PS. I put in Redline synthetic fluid and installed under drive pulleys. This helped the stock PS system live quite awhile! This year I'm adding a smaller cooler to the line. I haven't had any trouble with the diff but the lack of a sensor doesn't fill me with confidence. One of these days I'll put a sensor in a see just what it's doing.

Give Brian a PM (bjankuski) he runs a 406 CID at Road America sometimes.

6SSPD

Thanks Aardwolf , that is great information . This is the kind of information I am looking for, real world experience. What you've listed, makes good sense to me, and I will incorporate it into my setup.

Again, thanks and I will also PM Brian

thehammer69

I think you would be fine with a hydraulic roller cam. However, I recommend you go old school and stay away from the modern extreme ramp rate lobes and stick with a low lift & high duration cam with a tight LSA which will be easy on your valvetrain.

6SSPD

Hey "TheHammer69", any recommendations in mind? Thanks again

I have a COMP CAMS GRIND # 3316/3317 cam, with 236/242 @ .050 .555/.576 @ 1.6:1 on a 112 lsa
+4, would that too much for this application?

How about the GM847 CAM, is that the "older technology" you are talking about?

67Ranger

To answer a few questions... I would go with something bigger than a 195 on a 406, at least a 215 or something if you are trying to keep the bottom end, if not, a 225/230.
Crankshaft: probably forged if you want to to last for a while, and be bulletproof, stay away from eagle (you can PM me for why I dislike eagle so much) and look into something like a compstar rotating assembly.
Cam: Of course it would be benneficial to go to a solid roller, but its more maintenance and probably slightly more expensive parts. The advantage is that you dont have to worry about lifter pump up, and you will make more power because you can run a more agressive lobe. That being said, you will probably be just fine with a hydraulic, but better with a solid if you dont mind setting valves.
Billet core, billet core, billet core... Cast cores break, thats all there is to it. They dont always break, but when they do, its not a good deal. The cam core alone wont take care of the problems with a hydraulic cam, there will always be the lifter pump up issue if you go into valve float. Good springs, and lightweight retainters will always help, and I'm not sure about whose lifters to use on a race hydraulic. We use comps on most of the street stuff, but they only race cars we use hydraulic lifters on, arent really what you would want to run.
Shoot me a PM if you have any engine questions, and I'll try and help. Not too sure about the coolers and stuff, but it doesnt seem like it would be a bad thing at all.


Also, if anything that cam is a little bit small for what I would personally run, but would probably work fine for what you're trying to do.

Crepitus

68sixspeed

I've done a few gen-1 small blocks over the years... If you are going hyd roller a 406 is a great combo, if you are thinking mechanical and higher rpm's I'd even consider a 377, they love to wind!

Get a good crank and rods. (I've had good luck with crower and callies.) Pistons, think light weight, 6" rods vs 5.7" to make the piston lighter and help the rod ratio.

If you go solid roller-- a few things I've learned the hard way... get real good lifters like the Crower HIPPO- pressurized pin oiling of the roller is a must esp for street use. Also get a cam made with a cast iron gear so you don't need a bronze gear on the distributor, they wear out quick and are a pia. (on my 427 motor the rear cam journal is removable to let them press on the cast iron gear)

Heads, x2 with the above post - 210+cc on the 406. (220+ if you are running a mech roller or higher rpm use) If you use AFR I recommend tossing their springs- I've heard of a few motors not even making it off the dyno with broken springs. The 227's have actually had a bad valve job on them from AFR, so I would check everything. (valve seat runout over .008" brand new!)

Good luck, should be fun! -Dan

6SSPD

Thanks 67Ranger, what you've posted make good sense to me, and will influence my decision. Like I said, I don't believe in outright wasted effort, so if I have to delay my project to ensure I'm heading in a positive/right direction, I will do that.

I looked into the COMPSTAR product, and it is reasonably priced. I will also PM you about camshaft/valvetrain recommendations. Though not a full daily driver, I do intend on driving this car on the street. Thanks again, and I will PM you tomorrow.

Again, thanks for everyone's help.

Hey Dan , glad to see you've had some real world experience at this as well. Please, keep the information coming Gentlemen.

Steve85

This is from a thread I started at Speed-Talk where some of the best engine builders in the country hang out. This quote is from cam designer Mike Jones:

Here is the thread:
Road Course Engine Advice

Crepitus

This is gettin good.

6SSPD

Steve85, that is a VERY informative link, and site. Thanks for providing us with it. It appears that this "ROAD-RACING ENGINE BUILDING" is a ponderance of many. IMHO, your link should be a sticky, so other can refer. There are some very knowledgable individuals on there, whose K/S would greatly help us NEOPHYTES, to NOT make futile decisions.

Ashley