Dumb bleeding question using Motive Power Bleeder
#1
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Dumb bleeding question using Motive Power Bleeder
Right now, I still bleed my brakes the old fashioned way (get the wife to pump the pedal). Been married now for 10 years now, and I can no longer woo her into doing my bidding like I use to...
I usually put a clear rubber hose on the nozzle and then have her pump so I can see when I have no air bubbles and clean fresh fluid coming through. I also do it this way so I don't get corrosive brake fluid all over my calipers and brake pads.
I never used a Power bleeder, but I assume it just creates pressure to the system, so when you open the valve the fluid comes out without any pumping.
Here is the question. If that is the case, how the heck do you turn the nozzle and get the tube on without the fluid shooting all over the caliper and making a mess?
I usually put a clear rubber hose on the nozzle and then have her pump so I can see when I have no air bubbles and clean fresh fluid coming through. I also do it this way so I don't get corrosive brake fluid all over my calipers and brake pads.
I never used a Power bleeder, but I assume it just creates pressure to the system, so when you open the valve the fluid comes out without any pumping.
Here is the question. If that is the case, how the heck do you turn the nozzle and get the tube on without the fluid shooting all over the caliper and making a mess?
#2
Race Director
Member Since: Oct 2000
Location: Deal's Gap 2004 NCM Motorsports track supporter
Posts: 13,915
Received 1,103 Likes
on
717 Posts
use a pipe flare wrench (?) or whatever it is called. The open portion should pass over the tube and slide down over the nut. I understand that it is better to not pump up pressure over 10# as any more than that may mess with the ABS module. Also, before using bleeder, pump the pedal with engine off to remove residual power vacuum. Should you get a spongy feel on the pedal, take it out on the road and stomp the brakes into ABS mode to clear the air. Then, bleed again. This system has always worked for me. Oh yeah, for those of us with C4's, while using the power bleeder, you still have to pump the pedal to actuate fluid movement.
#4
Instructor
Member Since: Aug 2004
Location: Panama City Beach Fl
Posts: 218
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I use the box end of the wrench to break the bleeder screw loose then put the tube on and open the bleeder the rest of the way with the open end of the wrench.
#5
Team Owner
Member Since: Sep 2003
Location: Raleigh / Rolesville NC
Posts: 43,084
Likes: 0
Received 25 Likes
on
25 Posts
an old platic coke bottle with the cap on.
drill a hole in the cap, and slide some clear plastic tygon tubing though the top of the cap and attach to the end of the bleed valve.
Forgot what ID size tube you need, but the correct size to fit over the bleed valve
drill a hole in the cap, and slide some clear plastic tygon tubing though the top of the cap and attach to the end of the bleed valve.
Forgot what ID size tube you need, but the correct size to fit over the bleed valve
#6
Le Mans Master
Have your bleed bottle, with a clear rubber hose connected to it, and thread your 10mm boxed end wrench over the hose.
Attach the hose to the bleed nipple. Now, after pressure is on the system, just crack the bleed screw with your 10mm wrench, and you will see fluid come down the hose into the bottle.
After enough fluid has entered the bottle to satisfy you that there is not air in the system, close the bleed screw, remove the bleed hose from the nipple and you're all done with that caliper.
Proceed to the next wheel (caliper).
There should be no mess of fluid anywhere except in the bleed bottle.
(sorry, I was late to the party, everyone else already answered it.)
#7
Safety Car
#8
Le Mans Master
#10
Le Mans Master
#11
Melting Slicks
I'm not sure what you're asking, but it's really a simple method.
Have your bleed bottle, with a clear rubber hose connected to it, and thread your 10mm boxed end wrench over the hose.
Attach the hose to the bleed nipple. Now, after pressure is on the system, just crack the bleed screw with your 10mm wrench, and you will see fluid come down the hose into the bottle.
After enough fluid has entered the bottle to satisfy you that there is not air in the system, close the bleed screw, remove the bleed hose from the nipple and you're all done with that caliper.
Proceed to the next wheel (caliper).
There should be no mess of fluid anywhere except in the bleed bottle.
(sorry, I was late to the party, everyone else already answered it.)
Have your bleed bottle, with a clear rubber hose connected to it, and thread your 10mm boxed end wrench over the hose.
Attach the hose to the bleed nipple. Now, after pressure is on the system, just crack the bleed screw with your 10mm wrench, and you will see fluid come down the hose into the bottle.
After enough fluid has entered the bottle to satisfy you that there is not air in the system, close the bleed screw, remove the bleed hose from the nipple and you're all done with that caliper.
Proceed to the next wheel (caliper).
There should be no mess of fluid anywhere except in the bleed bottle.
(sorry, I was late to the party, everyone else already answered it.)
#12
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Thanks guys, the tube I currently use has a larger open universal type bottom that sits on the nipple and covers most of the entire bleed valve in the process, not allowing me to have a wrench AND the tube on at the same time. This has not been a problem up till now. I just crack the valve first, remove the wrench and tell the wife to wait until I get the tube seated. But take a look at the nipple on these W6A's...they are SOOO small (I mean tiny).
I can't get my current the tube over the nipple and a wrench at the same time. There is so little room to work with on the nipple. I don't want to crack the valve with pressure, have fluid start pouring all over the place and try to quickly attach the tube and then reverse the process.
Looks like I need to find a really small tube that will just sit high enough on the nipple and try my best to get a wrench on at the same time. Why do they make these things SO small.
I can't get my current the tube over the nipple and a wrench at the same time. There is so little room to work with on the nipple. I don't want to crack the valve with pressure, have fluid start pouring all over the place and try to quickly attach the tube and then reverse the process.
Looks like I need to find a really small tube that will just sit high enough on the nipple and try my best to get a wrench on at the same time. Why do they make these things SO small.
#13
Race Director
closed-end wrench, although I find tubing a waste of time. I simply put a drain pan under each caliper, bleed away, then blast them with brake-cleaner when I'm done.
#15
Race Director
Member Since: Oct 2000
Location: Deal's Gap 2004 NCM Motorsports track supporter
Posts: 13,915
Received 1,103 Likes
on
717 Posts
OK, looks like you have the 1/4" nipple al a mode wilwood. I found a small catch bottle at one of the auto supply stores that has 2 small tube feeds that works perfectly for my SL6's. However, I slip the double tube feed onto my motive tube and use the motive bottle since it is bigger. I then place both tubes on the two nipples of the caliper and bleed the outside and then a little on the inside.
#17
Safety Car
#20
Burning Brakes
I crack the bleeder bolt loose with a socket..but don't loosen it enough so that fluid comes out. Then put the hose on it, and open it with an open end wrench.
When finished bleeding I snug it back up with the wrench, remove the hose and then final torque the bolt with the socket.
When finished bleeding I snug it back up with the wrench, remove the hose and then final torque the bolt with the socket.