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Dumb bleeding question using Motive Power Bleeder

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Old 04-21-2010, 03:27 PM
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95jersey
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Default Dumb bleeding question using Motive Power Bleeder

Right now, I still bleed my brakes the old fashioned way (get the wife to pump the pedal). Been married now for 10 years now, and I can no longer woo her into doing my bidding like I use to...

I usually put a clear rubber hose on the nozzle and then have her pump so I can see when I have no air bubbles and clean fresh fluid coming through. I also do it this way so I don't get corrosive brake fluid all over my calipers and brake pads.

I never used a Power bleeder, but I assume it just creates pressure to the system, so when you open the valve the fluid comes out without any pumping.

Here is the question. If that is the case, how the heck do you turn the nozzle and get the tube on without the fluid shooting all over the caliper and making a mess?
Old 04-21-2010, 03:35 PM
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SouthernSon
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use a pipe flare wrench (?) or whatever it is called. The open portion should pass over the tube and slide down over the nut. I understand that it is better to not pump up pressure over 10# as any more than that may mess with the ABS module. Also, before using bleeder, pump the pedal with engine off to remove residual power vacuum. Should you get a spongy feel on the pedal, take it out on the road and stomp the brakes into ABS mode to clear the air. Then, bleed again. This system has always worked for me. Oh yeah, for those of us with C4's, while using the power bleeder, you still have to pump the pedal to actuate fluid movement.
Old 04-21-2010, 03:49 PM
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Wicked Weasel
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Have a can of brake cleaner ready.
Old 04-21-2010, 04:04 PM
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no spin
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I use the box end of the wrench to break the bleeder screw loose then put the tube on and open the bleeder the rest of the way with the open end of the wrench.
Old 04-21-2010, 04:05 PM
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AU N EGL
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an old platic coke bottle with the cap on.

drill a hole in the cap, and slide some clear plastic tygon tubing though the top of the cap and attach to the end of the bleed valve.

Forgot what ID size tube you need, but the correct size to fit over the bleed valve
Old 04-21-2010, 04:09 PM
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Falcon
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Originally Posted by 95jersey
Here is the question. If that is the case, how the heck do you turn the nozzle and get the tube on without the fluid shooting all over the caliper and making a mess?
I'm not sure what you're asking, but it's really a simple method.

Have your bleed bottle, with a clear rubber hose connected to it, and thread your 10mm boxed end wrench over the hose.

Attach the hose to the bleed nipple. Now, after pressure is on the system, just crack the bleed screw with your 10mm wrench, and you will see fluid come down the hose into the bottle.

After enough fluid has entered the bottle to satisfy you that there is not air in the system, close the bleed screw, remove the bleed hose from the nipple and you're all done with that caliper.

Proceed to the next wheel (caliper).

There should be no mess of fluid anywhere except in the bleed bottle.

(sorry, I was late to the party, everyone else already answered it.)
Old 04-21-2010, 04:15 PM
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gkmccready
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Originally Posted by Falcon
There should be no mess of fluid anywhere except in the bleed bottle.
Except the tiny bit that runs out of the hose as you pull it off the bleeder, which I either ignore or wipe with a shop rag.
Old 04-21-2010, 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by AU N EGL
???
Tom, your new avatar indicates you're either a Commodore, a Dallas Cowboys fan, or the you know what the "Bonnie Blue Flag" from 1861 looked like.
Old 04-21-2010, 04:17 PM
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AU N EGL
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Originally Posted by Falcon
Tom, your new avatar indicates you're either a Commodore, a Dallas Cowboys fan, or the you know what the "Bonnie Blue Flag" from 1861 looked like.
Yup

Commodore of the 1861 Dallas Cowboy Cheer leaders
Old 04-21-2010, 04:17 PM
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Falcon
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Originally Posted by gkmccready
Except the tiny bit that runs out of the hose as you pull it off the bleeder, which I either ignore or wipe with a shop rag.
I pinch the hose right at the bleed nipple and then hold it up for the fluid to drain into the bottle after removing.
Old 04-21-2010, 04:54 PM
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JDIllon
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Originally Posted by Falcon
I'm not sure what you're asking, but it's really a simple method.

Have your bleed bottle, with a clear rubber hose connected to it, and thread your 10mm boxed end wrench over the hose.

Attach the hose to the bleed nipple. Now, after pressure is on the system, just crack the bleed screw with your 10mm wrench, and you will see fluid come down the hose into the bottle.

After enough fluid has entered the bottle to satisfy you that there is not air in the system, close the bleed screw, remove the bleed hose from the nipple and you're all done with that caliper.

Proceed to the next wheel (caliper).

There should be no mess of fluid anywhere except in the bleed bottle.

(sorry, I was late to the party, everyone else already answered it.)
What he said, works great JD
Old 04-21-2010, 05:57 PM
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95jersey
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Thanks guys, the tube I currently use has a larger open universal type bottom that sits on the nipple and covers most of the entire bleed valve in the process, not allowing me to have a wrench AND the tube on at the same time. This has not been a problem up till now. I just crack the valve first, remove the wrench and tell the wife to wait until I get the tube seated. But take a look at the nipple on these W6A's...they are SOOO small (I mean tiny).



I can't get my current the tube over the nipple and a wrench at the same time. There is so little room to work with on the nipple. I don't want to crack the valve with pressure, have fluid start pouring all over the place and try to quickly attach the tube and then reverse the process.

Looks like I need to find a really small tube that will just sit high enough on the nipple and try my best to get a wrench on at the same time. Why do they make these things SO small.
Old 04-21-2010, 05:58 PM
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closed-end wrench, although I find tubing a waste of time. I simply put a drain pan under each caliper, bleed away, then blast them with brake-cleaner when I'm done.
Old 04-21-2010, 06:12 PM
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trackboss
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Those calipers use a reducer so that there is less wear on the caliper threads from bleeding. Very common. Just get a smaller hose.
Old 04-21-2010, 06:26 PM
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SouthernSon
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OK, looks like you have the 1/4" nipple al a mode wilwood. I found a small catch bottle at one of the auto supply stores that has 2 small tube feeds that works perfectly for my SL6's. However, I slip the double tube feed onto my motive tube and use the motive bottle since it is bigger. I then place both tubes on the two nipples of the caliper and bleed the outside and then a little on the inside.
Old 04-21-2010, 06:33 PM
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Buy a 10 mm box in wrench that has six sides instead of 12 and my used speed bleeder with catch bottle.
Old 04-21-2010, 06:48 PM
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gkmccready
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Originally Posted by trackboss
Those calipers use a reducer so that there is less wear on the caliper threads from bleeding. Very common. Just get a smaller hose.
Exactly. There's more than one size of hose out there...

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Old 04-21-2010, 06:59 PM
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Wicked Weasel
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Originally Posted by davidfarmer
closed-end wrench, although I find tubing a waste of time. I simply put a drain pan under each caliper, bleed away, then blast them with brake-cleaner when I'm done.
this is what I do.
Old 04-21-2010, 07:25 PM
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Zenak
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Section on Brake Bleeding:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/auto...e-learned.html
Old 04-21-2010, 11:59 PM
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Maxx Schlick
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I crack the bleeder bolt loose with a socket..but don't loosen it enough so that fluid comes out. Then put the hose on it, and open it with an open end wrench.

When finished bleeding I snug it back up with the wrench, remove the hose and then final torque the bolt with the socket.


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